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Everything posted by entomophile

  1. Version 1.0


    I needed a replacement knob for a vintage transistor radio. I doubted if I could get the tiny ridges to print but the UM2+ did not disappoint! Perfect reproduction, ready to use off the printer.
  2. Sorry for the late reply, I was expecting an email notification when I received a response. Anyway, you were both correct. I was printing at too low a temperature. I was misled by the PET+ printing temp specs listed as 220-250. I should have checked the MadeSolid printer settings first. Thank you1
  3. I didn't time it. Maybe 2 hours without rushing? PS-I'm still shocked every time I turn the power on just how quiet the new head is.
  4. I just finished the upgrade of my UM2 to a 2+. First of all, hats off to Ultimaker for making their machines upgradeable rather than forcing us to buy a new machine to keep pace with the latest tech. The upgrade was pretty easy, UM video was a big help. First impressions: this thing is quiet! The new fans are terrific. About all I hear now is the whine of the extrusion motor when the filament retracts. I keep the printer in my office and it is much more comfortable working while it is printing because it is so quiet. I was reluctant to print anything after the upgrade because I was afra
  5. OK, looks like I fixed the problem myself. I reduced the retraction length to 3 mm as recommended by MadeSolid. I really didn't expect 1.5 mm to make that much of a difference but I guess it does. I also decreased my infill from 20 to 15%. The infill is still a little messy, but at least it is complete.
  6. I just started printing with PET+. I printed a bunch of twin test cylinders to find the optimal print temperature. At 220C the surface finish is perfect and layer bonding is very strong. So I started printing some larger objects. The bottom layers and outer walls print perfectly but as soon as the infill starts the lines break down and the infill ends up a mess. It looks as though not enough material is being extruded during the infill. I tried slowing the infill speed to the same as the print speed (30 mm/s) with no luck. I also tried increasing the print temp to 230C thinking the mate
  7. Version 1.0


    Working Miniature Television
  8. I have been doing a lot of printing in ABS lately; some very large parts. And of course I am having issues with warping. The basement where I print is pretty cool and I thought that could be adding to the problem. So I decided to make a lexan cover for the front of my UM2 to prevent drafts and hopefully even out the temperature in the build chamber. I cut out a piece of 12" x 12" lexan. Originally I was going to hold it on with neodymium magnets but they weren't strong enough. I would have had to drill out my UM2 and insert opposing magnets in the case. Finally, I settled on velcro for a
  9. Am I right in thinking that multiple ABS parts don't like to be printed all at once? I am getting layer separation on otherwise beautiful parts. I am thinking that when printing all at once the layers are cooling too much before the next layer is printed.
  10. Ooooooh! I mis-read this to mean the print speed under the expanded settings. I set the minimum print speed to zero and now the minimal layer time function works. Thank you all. However... As you already know, the print looked like crap. I thought minimal layer time would print a layer at the set print speed, then pause and wait the remaining minimal time until it started the next layer. For those who don't get it like me, minimal layer time slows down the print speed so the entire layer takes at least as long as the minimal time to print. So, my printer was trying to print a 3 mm cylinde
  11. Funny, I thought I had the latest version of Cura! I check the update software option in Cura often, and it always tells me I have the latest version? I had to go to the Ultimaker downloads page to get the latest version. Shell is 0.8 mm with 20% infill. I updated Cura and the firmware on my UM2 and tried again. Same result. The minimal layer time function just isn't working. Every layer prints one after the other, about 1 sec per layer. I know there are other ways to get a better print, but that doesn't explain why the minimal layer time setting isn't working. I ended up printing 3 a
  12. OK, here's a pic. Material is PLA. Cura is version 14.09. The print on the left was done at 205C with the high quality defaults. The middle print was done at 200C with the high quality defaults. I lowered the object in Cura to just print the bad part over. The print on the right was done at 200C with a 30 sec minimal layer time, 0.06 mm layers and 20 mm/s print speed. As it was printing, it was just printing one layer after another, in much less than 30 seconds.
  13. I am trying to print something tall and thin and it is coming out looking kind of melted. I increased my minimal layer time to make sure each layer had time to cool, but it doesn't look like it changed the print any. I set the minimal layer time to 30 seconds but each layer does not take that long to print. Even in Cura, when I double my layer time setting to 60 sec, the total print time doesn't even change. What am I missing?
  14. It's Cura 14.09. All settings are as recommended (see pix). I have tried bottom/top thickness at 0, 0.1, and 0.2. None worked. GR5 - I haven't even gotten to a filament change. I print an object just fine with default settings and clear the object. Then I immediately try to print the first layer of my multicolor print and the nozzle extrudes some filament before starting the print as always (plenty of PLA comes out). Then the print head goes through the motions, but no PLA is printed on the bed. So I try to print a different file with the defaults and it prints just fine again.
  15. No, that's not it. I made prints of other objects before and after trying these settings and everything was fine. It has to be something in my Cura settings. Or maybe my stl file? But the layers look fine in Cura.
  16. OK, what am I doing wrong? The nozzle starts extruding before the print, then it prints nothing for the first layer. It goes through the motions, but nothing comes out of the nozzle. The nozzle is not clogged. What should my setting be for the bottom/top thickness? My other settings are as described in blecheimer's post. Is there another setting I need to change? In cura, I can see two solid layers so I think the .stl file is OK. Not sure what is going wrong.
  17. I believe it happens every time, even with other brands of filament. I still have the scraps from past cleanings. I don't have access to them now, but I'll post pictures later today.
  18. Yes, I mean the two holes. There is one on the other side as well. I can't tell if they just appear as the filament stretches as I remove it, or maybe there is something in the nozzle. But I would expect if there was something in the nozzle, the holes would look like lines as I pulled the filament out over the obstruction. Or maybe it's voids in the filament? It is MatterHackers Pro Series PLA which I think is pretty good stuff. The outer surface of the filament is perfect.
  19. I performed an atomic clean after a lousy print with some bad under extrusion. Whenever I do it, the filament comes out with a couple of dimples like in the picture. Is this normal, or is the nozzle still dirty?
  20. Thanks again. Looks like the spiralize setting works. I did a quick test with some single wall cylinders. Standard print is on the left, spiralized print is on the right.
  21. I have seen other programs that have a function that continuously lowers the build plate as a build progresses, thereby eliminating the seam lines where the build plate lowers. For example, when printing a cylinder the print head just goes round and round without any pause for each layer. Any way to get this type of printing in Cura?
  22. Thanks for the advice. I printed at 190°C with a 0.2 mm layer height and got ONE good print. Two other attempts after that failed. Maybe I'll try again at 0.25 mm but I've had enough of this stuff for today. Back to some PLA prints for now.
  23. I have been trying to make some prints on my UM2 of the UM robot in Laywoo-D3 on the normal quality defaults. I have tried at 190°C and 210°C (100% fan, 100% flow, 2.85 mm filament). I have tried with a 60°C bed and no heated bed. Each time the nozzle gets clogged and the print fails. I am not leaving the material in a hot nozzle. I clean the nozzle, get the laywood flowing nicely, and immediately print. Each time comes out like the picture. Any ideas on how to get this stuff to print? I know the wood fibers are up to 0.35 mm but I have read where people have successfully printed with 0.
  24. Thank you. I marked and tightened each screw 1/4 turn. The lip on the bottom of the prints is smaller and no more excess plastic on the first layer.
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