Jump to content

izo2

Dormant
  • Content Count

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by izo2

  1. it is easy to unmount the nozzles ? could be great to clean or change type of nozzle quickly.
  2. i'm sincerly think you'll have more advantage to keep it open also. even for buisness, you can't stop clone production. but same here i respect the choice. it always easy to say when is not your work...
  3. when you plan to ship it ? i personally prefer full metal hot end and don't print pla... at least hope will have the choice, because printing polycarbonate is really awesome. edit : sorry didn't see you write"christmas "
  4. very interesting ! printing polycarbonate is also an excellent update. does it run with the same cooling system than the original ? i don't see the fan on the picture
  5. hi i already print a 210 x 210 box in abs, without curling. 260 ° , no fan, buildlate @ 90° and the most important , i use 3dlac, i use it until the buildplate is flooded, it will create a sticky layer, the box will bump from the buildplate only when it will be cold. you will heard a big noise . i also keep my printer in a closed small piece to avoid thermal variation.
  6. izo2

    mat material ?

    ok, i didn't try to print under 210, i print my colorfab around 220, or i had under extrusion issue. i tried my tumbler, on pla, it's not efficient. i'll try on xt
  7. izo2

    mat material ?

    well since xt, i didn't print pla anymore. xt is not mat but scatter more the light and it's look great. still, i like a lot how look abs. well if colorfabb read this post, i wish a mat xt FOR christmas
  8. i print xt @ 250 with my fan at 100% unlike abs i have no issue with cooling, and my print is sharper. personally, i don't buy pla anymore. XT is far better in any aspect. the strengh of the mat is stuning. the material have a better aspect in my opinion, less shiny, kind of ruber more resistant to heat acetone polishing compliant no shrink, even where pla can give me a few expanded base (foot elephant) bridging and overhang is excellent. no under extrusion issue unlike pla (not sure why)
  9. hi, thks a lot for the tips, is there a place when i can check the changelist of the new beta version ?
  10. top layer, i read about print a small full layer on the top and clean the edges by hand. but already when i had to remove a brim i never had clean edge :( so i guess this method is not for me. if you have other method , let me know thks
  11. hi i have a, issue with RetractWhileCombing on cura 14.10 rc3 when i activate it, cura can't finish to slice my model.
  12. hi myself, you should read the forum and you can find this plugin http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4270-new-versions-of-cura-plugins-tweakatz-and-retractwhilecombing/
  13. hello, i didn't find a way to use combing option and always retract on travel, so i have an object where the surface need to be clean, but i see all the travel line on it :( if i don't use combing, it's perfect but as it not avoid hole anymore i sightly have more stringing on it. so for me combing + always retract will be the perfect solution.
  14. izo2

    mat material ?

    i got a tumbler for cleaning brass, it use kind of sand in it i will try that on pla
  15. hello, it's look like a lot of people like shiny material like pla. but i love much more mat material like abs , mat material looks make the surface more clean. aside abs, is there some mat material out there ?
  16. hi, i print large print in abs since yerstaday without issue, even with bed temps at 90°. thanks to 3dlac, i saturate my glass plate to create a thin layer of glue, print don't move anymore, when the glass gone under 40°, i can take my print like it was never stich. when the glass is hot, it is barely impossible to remove by hand or with a tool. i also level my build plate to have a strong flat first layer also additional, i switch off my fan, that keep the brim stich to the end. if i find a print curl now, i'll try to rise the build plate temperature. right now i'm enjoying abs, awesome bridging and overhang handling.
  17. i personally fixed all my issue with this forum. i got under extrusion, but was just a matter of temperature and material. by the way i never had under extrusion issue with abs, and finally solve my curling issue just few minutes ago
  18. update : raft curl also... i try now brim but i rise the build plate so the first layer is pressed well on the plate. update 2 : still curl even the print is quite hard to remove from the build plate. update 3: i read extra strong cheap lac can be better, i try it, it curl. now i put a bag over my printer to keep a hot ans stable temerature inside update 4 : i end up to remove the bag because it was too hot, and i afraid for the motor. i finally put a lot of glue, and deactivate the fan, it's looks working. i have a tiny curl of 0.2 mm on a corner. i can maybe improve it to higher the build plate temp
  19. hi thks for replying, it this kinf of issue http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/content/6/0/6067_1_3d_printing_tips_and_tricks_how_to_make_abs_juice_to_help_your_3d_prints_better_stick.jpg even when i use brim, i didn't try raft, i'll give a try asap my setting is 0.1 layer, 50 mm/s infill, 30 mm/s for the border. after everything is um 2 default setting for abs 90° temp bed, 260° for the extruder. 50% airflow
  20. hello, i never succeed to print abs, i use original setup stored in the um2, but i always have shrink, i try many type of glue and it will always pop out the build plate. small or big objects, whatever, i can't do a simple box... any idea ? thanks for your help
  21. yes the teflon add a bead inside, i use a drill bit to reshape it. and i chamfer a bit the filament tube. looks like everything is ok now. also at wich tempereature i should print abs without deform the teflon ?
  22. i finally succed printed it by rising my pla from 210 to 230.
  23. hi , i finally disassemble the printed head, clean everything, in it. still have underextrusion on the extrusion object test object found in the forum. and finally by rising temps from 210 to 230, i finally achieve 10 mm3/s without problem. it's a colorfabb black pla, i get use to print this brand @ 210 ° like they write on the box. but looks this one need additional temp.
  24. hi ! i buy my um2, 2 months ago. but since 2 weeks i'm facing underextrusion issue. i trying anything : atomic method (5 times) white filament look clean and well shape. different material feader force. different material, all high quality clean everything, tight all the belt, recalibrate multiple time the buildplate.... i still have random outline with under extrusion, and 100% infill not perfectly full and this annoying "toc" noise from the material feader. it's a appear more and big size object, wich i run 30 mm/s in 0.2 layers. i get use to an accurate machine even @ 100 mm/s before that. don't know what to do more. :-(
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!