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About mrwong

  • Birthday 05/14/1988

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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    R&D / Exploration
  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  1. Woah! How is everyone's 3D printed flying creations going? Its been a while since there has been any activity in here! I have been working on some new frames and concepts from some inspiration drawn from the new star wars movie! I was thinking about starting some youtube live streams for modeling training and tips when designing for nice prints. That way you guys can ask questions and help design our next ultimaker multi-rotors! I have some nice streaming hardware coming in the mail and would love to contribute some training in modeling. Let me know what you think or would like to see!
  2. Now that you are talking about this telemetry and other things about the taranis, ill have to also investigate this radio some more. I have two of the turnigy 9x radios, one that is running on the turnigy 2.4ghz v2 radios, and the other on a dragonlink. The dragon link system is hacked into my phantom v2+ system. <- different thread for that one. As for the size of the wiring that i used is as follows. The battery terminals are on the XT90 connectors with 14AWG wire, that should be sufficient for 32 Amps. That is the same size wiring that is used on my packs. Use this table for reference HERE For my speed controller wire size i'm using 20awg for power and 22 awg for motor wires coupled with 2mm bullets. For my 250 setup this is perfect, use that link that i posted to figure out what you need. Bare in mind that you dont want to over kill too much as it will add weight!
  3. This is also the first time i am using the PDB with regulators. There shouldn't be that much load on the 5v rail, as it is only powering the FC and the receiver. I would estimate that it would be somewhere in the range of <1A. I'll let you know if i have any issues. The spacing between the frame bottom plate and the middle deck i have at 11mm in my design, This still allows for air to pass over all components, so im guessing heat wont be a problem. The next test will be with fpv gear to see how it handles the extra load. I'm still rocking the turnigy 9x, and the 9xr pro is the 2nd iteration of that PLUS HK sells the correct lipo for it as well. That is a decent radio to start with and will have most if not all the features you may need, if not, its also hackable/flashable. For the TX or RX, get one that has a good balance of quality and price that you can afford, Also check out how much the receivers are as a single unit, to evaluate the cost to have multiple models. Remember that for this small scale, long range and more powerful radios might cause interference to other components. 250 quads don't really have much room to space components out. 2.4ghz for control and 5.8ghz for video will be sufficient for close fpv flying.
  4. Check out this mini 36x36 PDB with 12v and 5v step downs. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__75603__HobbyKing_8482_Mini_Dual_BEC_Distribution_Board.html Careful when looking at PDB's with step downs, the adjustable ones are not that good of quality from what i have been reading and are not the correct size for mini quads....
  5. To answer some of your questions, I have made the frame flat and in one plane cuts, because i would later like to cut the frame out of different materials. Injection molding is very expensive and if i need to produce some on a larger scale it will be easier to do so. Think Carbon fiber sheets or G10 fiber glass. When it comes to selecting motors, esc's, battery, and prop combos. You need to ask yourself what is your budget? What are you doing with the quad, racing, stunting, fpv, stable video capture? I wanted something small i could throw in a bag and fly almost anywhere in Line of sight. For my build no camera or fpv, so light as possible. Small powerful battery packs that wont break the bank if i need to order 4-6. Calculate estimated component weights and start to evaluate the total power to weight. This quad is about 4-1 power to weight. The AUW is about 300-450 grams, with each motor driving 330 - 370grams with 5x45 props @ ~10A.
  6. Ahh Nice to see some activity in here again! I have been posting some of my updates in the RC groups forums, but ill transfer my progress over here! First off I have been tuning the KK 2.1.5 flight controller to this mini frame. And i must say i like the board as it is super simple to setup and can be tweaked in the field without a computer. For beginners this is the route you will want to go. Lets start with some of the frame revisions and changes i have made to my frame. Bare in mind this first frame that i wanted, i did not want any FPV equipment on board. I wanted a super fast light weight flyer, but fpv can and will be added later once i get the frame sorted out. Here is the parts list for the build 4 x Multistart Elite 2300kv CW and CCW motors 4 x 12A blue ice simonK flash ESC's 1 x 36 x 36 mini PDB, next version will have integrated 5v and 12v step downs 1 x mini KK 2.1.5 board with case flashed with Stevis 4 x 5045 props CW and CCW 1 x turnigy 9x receiver Batteries - 3s 1500mah 35-70c or 3s 1300mah 45-90c misc hardware, some M3 bolts, nylon nuts and standoffs, stainless lock nuts Here are some photos that i had taken during the process. I will add some updated photos when i get a chance later today. Maybe also record some flying. :)Added some LED's for orientation pics coming soon. p.s Im not located in holland anymore, but i can speak and read dutch!
  7. Seems as if this thread is loosing some interest.. Well the weather is going to be getting better we hope.... lol summer is here. I think that your going to need that new frame to fly out side. This frame is a copy of a 250 fpv quad frame, and i have modded it to fit inside the um2 build volume. Test printing some parts in XT clear, then add the full parts list after some fitment! Here is a pic of it!
  8. I use a mode 2 for my quads Throttle and Rudder just feels right on my left stick. Seems to be the common default for most games and comes natural to me like that. Fly in the configuration that feels natural to you. That camera is a GoPro look a like! So Cheap and seems to have some good specs too!
  9. I can see your diving right in! Im using a turnigy 9x receiver and transmitter for my acro quads and such (9 channels). On my long range phantom 2 v+ i use a turnigy 9x controller with a UHF Dragonlink for maximum range and control stability. What i would recommend, is that you get a low battery buzzer from hobbyking as well. This will give you an indication when your pulling to much amps from the battery drawing it down past its safe zone. You dont want that lipo catching fire inside there!
  10. Wow Woofy Nice design! What is the weight of that thing loaded? 1300 mah 3s seems a little small for a copter with 10 inch props.
  11. Thanks Coen for starting the spreadsheet. I will add parts for each copter that would be good options.
  12. Does anyone know what the white connector is made out of? There are some good materials that are heat resistant and allow continuous operation at tho high temps. Take a look at this (operating temp 572F) http://www.ensinger-inc.com/products.cfm?page=product&product=tecasint+2011
  13. Those motors are actually not that bad! Check this all in one ESC that might be enough to power this model. The frame weight is not bad either! Let me see if i can find what those motors produce for lift with the 9x6 props. (Those motors look like they will accept the dji blades) http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42715__Q_Brain_4_x_25A_Brushless_Quadcopter_ESC_2_4S_3A_SBEC.html
  14. @Woofy, i like your design that you have made there. What program are you using? Can you get an estimated weight from that model? I like the idea of a water proof quad. But again for your first quad build i dont think that is a good idea. Your going to be spending some money on decent electronics and testing around water just sounds like disaster waiting to happen. Motors can get wet but still have bare exposed connections and bearing life after getting wet is my concern. Depending on the power need to fly this sealed craft, you will need good cooling for your ESC's (exposed to some moving air) and your battery must also be stored water tight. Your design currently does not accommodate the power packs which will not be that small! I love the enthusiasm! But i think we need to establish the components we want to used, flight time we want to achieve, dims and specs of all components and then build a frame to house all of it. Then make modular designs that can be water tight, fpv, or stunt. let me know what you guys think!
  15. No problem! Here to help Also we can create different mounting plates base on which controller one would want to use. The base frame and motor mounting should all be the same and interchangeable between flight controller mounting plates. That way the design can work with any FC combo.
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