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reibuehl

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  • Birthday 09/06/1972

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  1. Also check the feeder tension screw if it is too loose or too tight. The filament should only show very light to no markings from the feeder. If slips or grinds here, that could be an issue. Also check the diameter of your filament. On some brands, the filament is too thick for the bowden. Did you already replace the PTFE coupler? If that one is too old, you might see similar issues. But as @Smithy says, the bowden tube should be the first to check.
  2. Hello Harry, is the filament stuck in the bowden or just in the hotend? I would remove the bowden on the printhead side and pull it back a little to be able to grab the filament where it goes into the printhead. Then use the menu option Maintenance -> Advanced -> Heatup Nozzle and heat up the nozzle to ~90°C for PLA and then pull it out firmly as you would do if you use the "Atomic Method" to clean the nozzle. Best regards, Reiner
  3. Could also be caused by a loose temp sensor. If you loosen the screw that holds the temp sensor in the heater block and then gently press on the sensor, it should slide in a little more. Then tighten the screw again. Another possible fault reason could be that your heater cartridge can't reach the desired temperature in anymore within the limits of the firmware. That should show only when you print really hot (>230°C). To test if it is the board, you should also be able to go to the Maintenance->Advanced menu on the printer, dial to "heatup nozzle" but don't click on it. You should see now the measured and desired nozel temperature, e.g. 20°C/0°C. The first one is the measured temperature and should be close to room temperature after switching the printer on. If you now select this option and dial in a nozzel temperature, you should see the temperature rise quite fast - 50°C per minute or so. If the measured temperature doesn't increase and the block doesn't start to heat up (carefull when testing this by touching - only do that in the ferst few seconds!) , it could be the heater driver on the board. If it gets hot but the measured temp does not increase, it could be the sensor or the board parts that deal with the sensor but in that case a board defect seems very unlikely as there is not mich between the sensor and the microcontroller on the board that could fail.
  4. I have the exact same symoms as you, so I tried running the vcredist_64 to see if it would install. It only offered me the options to uninstall or repair, so it must have been installed already. I tried the repair option which completed successfully. But the problem with the blank windows that crashes after a few seconds is still the same. So I guess that symptom has many root causes unfortunately.
  5. And then how do I reinstall all the other versions that who-knows-what software needs to function?
  6. Do you have an Intel graphics adapter?
  7. I see this behavior with new filament and old filament. I have now printed and installed the yoke version with the guides that you mentioned and will give it a try for a while. I modufied it slightly to work without the need for spacers and longer screws and have done one successful print up to now. But since the issue only shows up sporadic, I need to test with that yoke version for a longer time.
  8. I already did try replacing the parts... that didn't help. The current parts only have a few hours on them.
  9. No, mine is just a regular UM2 (no plus). It is also a fairly old machine (>5 years I think), so no warranty anymore.
  10. Hi all, I use IRobertI's feeder (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two) now for many years but recently experience an annoying issue: Suddenly, sometimes after a few layers, sometimes very far in the print, the filament snaps behind the bearing in the feeder and then can't be moved anymore. This seems to happen more frequently after I change filament but that might be unrelated. I already printed new feeder parts and replaced the bearing but nothing seems to help. Has anybody that uses this feeder - or any other feeder - experienced a similar issue? How could I fix this? Reiner
  11. I would guess that the parts that are removed are too thin or too shallow so that they are below the threshold of what can be printed with your selected nozzle diameter and/or layer height. To try to verify my theory, you could try to enlarge the model in Cura by 100% and then slice the model again using the same settings as before. If the slicer result looks better/has more details vissible, you could try different slicer settings with the normally sized model. You could cange the layer height to be smaller - maybe even only for the top x layers to minimize printing time. If that is not enough and if your printer supports it, you could switch to a smaller diameter nozzle, e.g. 0.25 mm instead of 0.4 mm.
  12. Hast Du schon mal probiert, die Windows compatibility settings für die Cura.exe auf "Windows 8" zu setzen? Bei mir hat das auf einem von zwei Systemen, auf denen Cura >= 2.x nicht läuft geholfen. Siehe https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5569
  13. Setting the compatibility mode to "Windows 8" also fixed it for me on Windows 10 Pro 64-bit. I filed a bug for this: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/5569
  14. I have the same issue. 3.6 was working fine and then stopped showing any GUI. I uninstalled it and installed 4.0 and have the same issue with 4.0. The process Cura.exe shows up in Windows Taskmanager with minimal CPU usage but no other signs of activity. Running it with the "run as Administrator" option doesn't help either. I run it on Windows 10 Pro Version 1809 64-bit.
  15. Hi! Does anybody here have machine settings and profiles to use the Fabrikator Mini 1.5 / Turnigy Tiny Boy printer with Cura 3.x? Best regards, Reiner
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