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reibuehl

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reibuehl last won the day on November 13 2019

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  1. I solved the problem on my laptop by upgrading to the latest graphics drivers from Intel (newer than the ones from the laptop vendor who doesn't update them anymore).
  2. If I edit the speeds in the sidebar, I get a popup notice every time I change the profile notifying me that the default was overwritten and if I wanted to keep or reset it to the default. That's why I was looking for a way to permanently set such basic values. I guess the way via .def.json files is the better then because then others could also benefit from it. Could you point me to a suitable set of such files that can be used as a starting point for a new set? Or is there even a documentation on how to create (and contribute) such new printer definitions to Cura development?
  3. Hi all, I am trying to setup new machine settings for my Turnigy fabrikator Mini 1.5 in Cura 4.6.1. I created a new machine based on the "Custom FFF" type. I could set a number of parameters of the machine there, but seem to be unable to set global max print and travel speeds anywhere. After defining the machine and extruder, a set of default profiles has been created automatically but they all contain default print speeds of 60mm/s which is much too fast for this little printer. Where can I modify the defaults for the printer? Best regards, Reiner
  4. Hello! Does the UM2 firmware store any values in EEPROM on the board? If it does, are they completely reset by the Reset to Factory Defaults menu item? I see some strange behavior on my UM2 after switching back and forth between stock and @tinkergnome's firmware version and now I wonder if there is something in EEPROM that causes this... Best regards, Reiner
  5. Yes, with this change it compiles again. Thanks!
  6. Hi, I am trying to compile the current version of the firmware from github with Arduino but get an error: Arduino: 1.8.12 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" In file included from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:47:0: sketch\machinesettings.h: In member function 'bool MachineSettings::has_saved_settings(uint8_t) const': machinesettings.h:24:87: error: operands to ?: have different types 'MachineSettings::t_machinesettings*' and 'bool' bool has_saved_settings(uint8_t index) const { return (index < MAX_MACHINE_SETTINGS) ? settings[index] : false; } ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ exit status 1 operands to ?: have different types 'MachineSettings::t_machinesettings*' and 'bool' I am no expert on this so it would be great if somebody could give me a hint how to fix this. Or should I better pull a different releas/tag instead of latest? EDIT: I get the same error when I switch to the V19.03.1tag. Best regards, Reiner
  7. Hi all, I think there is an option in Cura to prevent extruding material when moving over the part for top and bottom layers but I am not able to find it. Can you point me to the right option(s)? I would like to avoid the crisscrossing connections between the perimeters shown in this picture to get nicer top and bottom layers Best regards, Reiner
  8. Also check the feeder tension screw if it is too loose or too tight. The filament should only show very light to no markings from the feeder. If slips or grinds here, that could be an issue. Also check the diameter of your filament. On some brands, the filament is too thick for the bowden. Did you already replace the PTFE coupler? If that one is too old, you might see similar issues. But as @Smithy says, the bowden tube should be the first to check.
  9. Hello Harry, is the filament stuck in the bowden or just in the hotend? I would remove the bowden on the printhead side and pull it back a little to be able to grab the filament where it goes into the printhead. Then use the menu option Maintenance -> Advanced -> Heatup Nozzle and heat up the nozzle to ~90°C for PLA and then pull it out firmly as you would do if you use the "Atomic Method" to clean the nozzle. Best regards, Reiner
  10. Could also be caused by a loose temp sensor. If you loosen the screw that holds the temp sensor in the heater block and then gently press on the sensor, it should slide in a little more. Then tighten the screw again. Another possible fault reason could be that your heater cartridge can't reach the desired temperature in anymore within the limits of the firmware. That should show only when you print really hot (>230°C). To test if it is the board, you should also be able to go to the Maintenance->Advanced menu on the printer, dial to "heatup nozzle" but don't click on it. You should see now the measured and desired nozel temperature, e.g. 20°C/0°C. The first one is the measured temperature and should be close to room temperature after switching the printer on. If you now select this option and dial in a nozzel temperature, you should see the temperature rise quite fast - 50°C per minute or so. If the measured temperature doesn't increase and the block doesn't start to heat up (carefull when testing this by touching - only do that in the ferst few seconds!) , it could be the heater driver on the board. If it gets hot but the measured temp does not increase, it could be the sensor or the board parts that deal with the sensor but in that case a board defect seems very unlikely as there is not mich between the sensor and the microcontroller on the board that could fail.
  11. I have the exact same symoms as you, so I tried running the vcredist_64 to see if it would install. It only offered me the options to uninstall or repair, so it must have been installed already. I tried the repair option which completed successfully. But the problem with the blank windows that crashes after a few seconds is still the same. So I guess that symptom has many root causes unfortunately.
  12. And then how do I reinstall all the other versions that who-knows-what software needs to function?
  13. Do you have an Intel graphics adapter?
  14. I see this behavior with new filament and old filament. I have now printed and installed the yoke version with the guides that you mentioned and will give it a try for a while. I modufied it slightly to work without the need for spacers and longer screws and have done one successful print up to now. But since the issue only shows up sporadic, I need to test with that yoke version for a longer time.
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