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Everything posted by reibuehl

  1. Hallo @Filmpalast, hast Du das Problem lösen können? Wenn ja, könntest Du Dein UM2 Profil für Prusa Slicer posten? Gruß, Reiner
  2. Since I use the Tinkergnome firmware, I will go with your recommendation 🙂 Many thanks!
  3. Good information, thanks! Now that I know what to search for, I actually found the M600 in the g-code - just not where I expected it... I configured the Filament Change for Layer 803 and then searched for ";LAYER:803" in the file where I expected the change command. It is actually inserted before ";LAYER:802", two layers earlier than I expected it. I guess the plugin and Cura have a off-by-one issue where one starts counting from 0 and the other starts at 1. Regarding the "Extrude Amount" setting: The help for that parameter talks about 128mm for an UM2. That sounds a lot since the change procedure of the printer already ensures that the filament is transported to the nozzle. Do you use such a high value?
  4. Hi all, I just tried to add a material change at a certain Z height to my g-code by using the post processing script "Filament Change" from the Extensions->Post processing menu in Cura 4.8. Unfortunately this did not work. My UM2 did not initiate the filament change and an inspection of the generated g-code showed that nothing was inserted at the layer where I had specified the change. Is this a bug or did I do something wrong? Best regards, Reiner
  5. Was brauchst Du denn? Standardsachen für UM2 und UM3 wie z.B. Bowden, Printcores, Heater und andere Hotend Teile gibt es bei Reichelt.
  6. Die Bill of Materials des UM3 findest Du hier: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/BOM/BOM Ultimaker 3.pdf Da sind mehrere Federn aufgelistet. Die drei Stück DR2160 und ein Stück DR1300 sind von Alcomex ( https://webshop.alcomex.de/)
  7. Hi, I am trying to create a new machine profile for Cura. I created a machine definition and extruder definition file and also have a STL for the build plate. When I create a new printer based on this profile, the build volume cube and the build plate representation are not centered to each other. The build plate is misaligned in x and y direction: I guess I am missing parameters in the machine definition file to align them, but I don't know which parameters to use or how to create the STL in a way that it automatically gets aligned. How can I do this?
  8. I had similar issues (the mushroom) and could mitigate it by reducing the retract length at the end of the (previous) print job from 20 to 10mm.
  9. Schau mal, ob Deine Grafikkartentreiber aktuell sind. Ich hatte ähnliche Fehler auf einem Rechner mit Intel HD Grafik bis ich den Treiber des PC Herstellers durch die aktuellsten Treiber direkt von Intel ersetzt habe. Ansonsten hilft manchmal auch Cura über die Compatibility Settings im Windows 7/8 Kompatibilitätsmodus zu starten.
  10. Hi all, what is the default retraction length that the UM2 firmware does at the end of the print? Best regards, Reiner
  11. I solved the problem on my laptop by upgrading to the latest graphics drivers from Intel (newer than the ones from the laptop vendor who doesn't update them anymore).
  12. If I edit the speeds in the sidebar, I get a popup notice every time I change the profile notifying me that the default was overwritten and if I wanted to keep or reset it to the default. That's why I was looking for a way to permanently set such basic values. I guess the way via .def.json files is the better then because then others could also benefit from it. Could you point me to a suitable set of such files that can be used as a starting point for a new set? Or is there even a documentation on how to create (and contribute) such new printer definitions to Cura development?
  13. Hi all, I am trying to setup new machine settings for my Turnigy fabrikator Mini 1.5 in Cura 4.6.1. I created a new machine based on the "Custom FFF" type. I could set a number of parameters of the machine there, but seem to be unable to set global max print and travel speeds anywhere. After defining the machine and extruder, a set of default profiles has been created automatically but they all contain default print speeds of 60mm/s which is much too fast for this little printer. Where can I modify the defaults for the printer? Best regards, Reiner
  14. Hello! Does the UM2 firmware store any values in EEPROM on the board? If it does, are they completely reset by the Reset to Factory Defaults menu item? I see some strange behavior on my UM2 after switching back and forth between stock and @tinkergnome's firmware version and now I wonder if there is something in EEPROM that causes this... Best regards, Reiner
  15. Yes, with this change it compiles again. Thanks!
  16. Hi, I am trying to compile the current version of the firmware from github with Arduino but get an error: Arduino: 1.8.12 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" In file included from sketch\Marlin_main.cpp:47:0: sketch\machinesettings.h: In member function 'bool MachineSettings::has_saved_settings(uint8_t) const': machinesettings.h:24:87: error: operands to ?: have different types 'MachineSettings::t_machinesettings*' and 'bool' bool has_saved_settings(uint8_t index) const { return (index < MAX_MACHINE_SETTINGS) ? settings[index] : false; } ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~^~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ exit status 1 operands to ?: have different types 'MachineSettings::t_machinesettings*' and 'bool' I am no expert on this so it would be great if somebody could give me a hint how to fix this. Or should I better pull a different releas/tag instead of latest? EDIT: I get the same error when I switch to the V19.03.1tag. Best regards, Reiner
  17. Hi all, I think there is an option in Cura to prevent extruding material when moving over the part for top and bottom layers but I am not able to find it. Can you point me to the right option(s)? I would like to avoid the crisscrossing connections between the perimeters shown in this picture to get nicer top and bottom layers Best regards, Reiner
  18. Also check the feeder tension screw if it is too loose or too tight. The filament should only show very light to no markings from the feeder. If slips or grinds here, that could be an issue. Also check the diameter of your filament. On some brands, the filament is too thick for the bowden. Did you already replace the PTFE coupler? If that one is too old, you might see similar issues. But as @Smithy says, the bowden tube should be the first to check.
  19. Hello Harry, is the filament stuck in the bowden or just in the hotend? I would remove the bowden on the printhead side and pull it back a little to be able to grab the filament where it goes into the printhead. Then use the menu option Maintenance -> Advanced -> Heatup Nozzle and heat up the nozzle to ~90°C for PLA and then pull it out firmly as you would do if you use the "Atomic Method" to clean the nozzle. Best regards, Reiner
  20. Could also be caused by a loose temp sensor. If you loosen the screw that holds the temp sensor in the heater block and then gently press on the sensor, it should slide in a little more. Then tighten the screw again. Another possible fault reason could be that your heater cartridge can't reach the desired temperature in anymore within the limits of the firmware. That should show only when you print really hot (>230°C). To test if it is the board, you should also be able to go to the Maintenance->Advanced menu on the printer, dial to "heatup nozzle" but don't click on it. You should see now the measured and desired nozel temperature, e.g. 20°C/0°C. The first one is the measured temperature and should be close to room temperature after switching the printer on. If you now select this option and dial in a nozzel temperature, you should see the temperature rise quite fast - 50°C per minute or so. If the measured temperature doesn't increase and the block doesn't start to heat up (carefull when testing this by touching - only do that in the ferst few seconds!) , it could be the heater driver on the board. If it gets hot but the measured temp does not increase, it could be the sensor or the board parts that deal with the sensor but in that case a board defect seems very unlikely as there is not mich between the sensor and the microcontroller on the board that could fail.
  21. I have the exact same symoms as you, so I tried running the vcredist_64 to see if it would install. It only offered me the options to uninstall or repair, so it must have been installed already. I tried the repair option which completed successfully. But the problem with the blank windows that crashes after a few seconds is still the same. So I guess that symptom has many root causes unfortunately.
  22. And then how do I reinstall all the other versions that who-knows-what software needs to function?
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