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Everything posted by smorgana

  1. Wow. I found this topic trying to figure out how to adhere PLA to the build plate. Up till now... It would not stick at all to the glass if there was nothing on the glass.. and all I had was glue stick.. Glue stick works well .. but too well.. even when it all cools to room temp.. you can't get the part off.. I've read people put it in the fridge, etc.. I end up prying it off. people suggest hair spray.. but I'd like to stay away from it. But I tried the salt method and it's amazing. The part adheres, comes off easy.. the bottom of the part is nice and smooth.. plus salt cost practically nothing.
  2. I have a 3 and a half year old Ultimaker 2... in the last few months I was having more and more trouble with under extrusion, layer adhesion (on ABS), and nozzle clogging.. It was the nozzle clogging that finished it. Usually I could clear things with the atomic method.. but I finally got to a clog that would not clear. So I disassembled the print head and found that it was so burnt inside the nozzle that it explained why I could not clear it. Unfortunately I broke the temperature sensor while taking things apart.. and since I figured it would take about as much effort to replace that than to do the extrusion upgrade, I went with doing the upgrade. Figuring I'd get extra benefits from having a 2+ Wow. The upgrade was easy -- took about 2 hours... and the first print off of it was perfect... It's like a brand new printer now. I also like the firmware on the 2+ -- especially that it asks for the material type before you insert the material in a material change.. And I can't wait to try out the different nozzle sizes. I'm also thinking I should never again get into a situation with an un-clearable nozzle because I could always just remove the nozzle and clean it chemically.
  3. Yes. Success. well partly... Just heating to 260 and letting it sit there for 30 seconds, when doing the atomic method got material flowing freely again... I say partly because I still have not gotten a cone shape pulled out... Anyways I'm back doing a print now and it's looking good.
  4. I guess I should have titled this post "Badly clogged nozzle" anyways... I've done reading on the forum and it's clear from photos that people have posted that I'm not fully implementing the atomic method... People get actual cone shaped pointed material pulled out... One post though had what might help.. using ABS (I am), they heated up to 260... I've only heated up to 240... I've also read around and see that the UM2 is not ideal for replacing the nozzle... so I'm thinking about doing an upgrade kit to a UM2 + if I get to the point where I want to replace the nozzle.
  5. Well I've been printing on my UM2 for over 3 years... getting very good prints out of it. One time in those 3 years the nozzle got clogged.. and I used the atomic method and started working nicely again. But now I had a lot of trouble with a print.. and it was because it was not extruding enough material.. I got like hairs width material out of it.. So I did the atomic method again and yes... it pulled out some burnt crud.. then it started flowing normally again. So thinking the cause might be dusty filament... The first print I did after cleaning was to make a dust cleaner... That print came out great... The machine sat till the next night... and in my next attempt I was back where I started... Hardly any material comes out on a material change.. or if I use Move Material... So I tried the atomic method again.. but in this case I couldn't get any material to flow out the nozzle when I pushed the filament in.. after a few tries I got a fine thread ,but very littl. When I do the atomic method I never get what I'd call a complete cone shape on the scrap filament. And it seems as if there is a clog closer to the output end of the nozzle... So my question is... am I just at the end of life for this nozzle? Or is there some way I can clear this one.. Am I just doing the atomic method wrong?
  6. Thanks. Though Dimafix looks interesting... it can't be shipped to the USA, which is where I am located. So the parts release themselves with glue stick too, but the platform has to be room temperature. My question really is... can I speed the cooling process or do I risk cracking... I suppose i could just try it when I'm not in a rush to get parts done.
  7. I print with ABS on an Ultimaker 2... The machine works great, but I have had occasional problems with layer adhesion on tall objects. If I run .1 layers... no problem.., go up to .2 layers and I get cracks and the part is weak. But this week I have a part to make that takes 11 hours at .1 layers, 20% infill.. and I need to make a bunch of them by Thursday... so I read this forum for advice on how to improve my print settings. Printing at .2 layers gets me a part every six hours.... I'd get about 4 parts a day. So basically this is a repeat of what can already be found here... The ABS I'm working with specs say to have the nozzle heat at 230 - 240c depending on printer model... I have been running at 230, and found out here that increasing the temp would help fix the problem... So I ran a part at .2 layers, 20% infill and at 240c... and it still had a few cracks... Reading more here I found that the idea is that the plastic is cooling too fast (My basement is pretty cool)... so the advice was to also set the fan speed down to 25%, and try to enclose the printer... So I set the fan speed, and taped a piece of heavy paper across the front opening and ran the part. And wow... It worked... The part came out beautifully.. The next thing I'd like to learn is what's the fastest way to get the part out of the printer... I'd like to print as many parts per day as possible... If I start a print before bed that finishes during the night, by morning the printer is cool and the part has separated itself from the build platform... I use glue stick... so if the platform hasn't cooled enough you either can't get the part off, or you end up breaking the part trying to get it off. is it safe to blow a fan at the build platform to speed cooling, or will that lead to cracking too?
  8. I had the same situation. Except in my case I ran out of filament during a print, so a piece of filament got stuck all the way from the feeder to the nozzle. You can't have the feeder reverse the filament out because it is just past the feed gear. Also on an UM2 you can't just push in a new filament while powered up because the stepper is energized. What I did was cut the new filament end flat so it would have the most surface pushing against the broken piece. and manually fed it into the feeder while turning the dial to advance the filament in the "move material" menu option. I did that just enough to get extrusion out of the nozzle, then I printed something unimportant to use up the broken piece. As others have noted, until you get past the break, retraction doesn't work so the quality of the part suffers.
  9. Yep, sounds similar to this thread... Thanks! I'll give that solution from the other thread a try.
  10. When you change material, during the initial feed you can (and I do) let it feed material until the new color comes out. I do this whether its between prints or during a pause print. But yes of course depending on the colors, you may find some of the original color still mixed in for a while... So If I am between prints, I use move material to extrude enough until I get a pure extrusion of the new color. Unfortunately... The move material option is not available during a pause. You can only 1. resume, 2 change material, or 3 tune. The tune menu doesn't allow you to move material. If you change material and go right into "move material", and wait for the head to come up to temp.. It takes quite a bit of knob turning before any material extrudes out. My impression is that after a color change during a pause , no material is extruded at all for a while. I know this because I was printing a vertical thin object. It printed several layers before material started extruding, and eventually started printing "in the air" once material started coming out. This is odd because, as I said, during the material change, you can allow a lot of material to flow out before hitting "ready" to go on to the next step in the change material process. It is as if it is retracting material after the color change, and it is not accounted for in the printing process. Note this is not a noticeable problem if you only change colors between prints because at the start of every print, the printer extrudes quite a bit of material at the edge of the build platform before starting with the print. Ever notice you can hear the material feed motor running well before material starts to come out?
  11. using an Ultimaker 2 and Cura. If I manually pause a print and change colors, and then restart the print... It seems to work fine. If I use the Cura Pause plugin to pause at a layer and then change the color, and then resume the print, it takes about 2 square inches of printing before any color gets put down. I've tried letting it extrude lots of plastic during the material change, but that seems to have no effect on this. I've tried using the default of 5mm of retraction for the pause, and also tried zero retraction for the pause. Any ideas?
  12. It's an interesting discussion... razor blades vs wood chisels. But I'll be looking for the part to just pop off once cooled. It really should.
  13. could it be that the extruder seriously dug into the already printed plastic and had enough force to push the plate out of position, popping the clips open? could be a problem with your z-axis? or plate height?
  14. I have a wood chisel -- will try next time -- was wondering about using it on glass though....
  15. Now I have an answer... Use a razor blade to get some non-contact, then use running water while prying up and down... It finally popped off! If the build plate was not removable... that part'd still be in there...
  16. niet, ne, lo, nein,nahi, nei, -- Google is fun! I worked the full width of a single edge razor blade under each corner of the model, pried the blade up and down, and pulled on the model... Probably won't be able to play piano for a few hours... the model has a large flat base -- approximately 2.5 inches by about 4 inches. thats a bunch of square inches of solid contact. My wife worked it during the day with a knife... during the day it has developed a few streaks of non-contact area. Now there are 4 non-contact ares in the corners... but it's not budging... back into the freezer!
  17. ah.. ok ok! Wouldnt it be funny if it only takes a minute with a razor blade? Instead I might sit here and design a wrench that exactly fits the contours of the model so I can pull it off the plate. I'd have to print the wrench though Ok.. getting over fears of sharp instruments and going in!
  18. Sadly, the model is still stuck and careful prying with a sharp knife is not helping... I don't like razor blades, or x-acto knives -- have scars to show for that... Part of the problem is I'm trying not to break the model... I'll give up on that. Other than that.. once it's off I'll experiment with nothing at all for PLA, and with hair spray. Thanks for all the advice.
  19. I'm wondering if the reason for some find it easy some find it hard can be found in platform height. If the platform is too low from the nozzel -- I know for a fact that the first layer doesn't adhere well or at all... Wondering if too close a platform causes the first layer to adhere too well?? I did move the platform extra close for the print before this one....
  20. ah... I hesitate to use a metal tool, but I'm at that point now... Freezing did not help.. Yes it's likely that the glue is an issue here. I froze it at 0 degrees F for about an hour... and still thermal expansion rates are not helping me... maybe the thaw cycle will break it free... The funny thing is... I think if I wanted to glue a part with glue stick to a piece of glass, I'd have trouble having it hold... I am definitely up for forgoing glue on PLA for some test runs... but i'm kind of blocked here, having only one plate to work with.
  21. Just to note: this is not an Ultimaker specific problem... The way I see it... In order to get a relatively smooth surface (tops and bottoms) that layer needs to be "squished" into the previous layer.. when you use a support layer, such as grids or lines, that is not possible, so you basically get the contour of the filament as it was extruded. To get a smooth layer against a support, the top of the support would need to be flat, but that defeats the ability to remove the support after the model is done. In other words supports depend on bad contact with the model in order to be removable, and bad contact means rough surface. I've read about dissolvable supports... should we ever get that plus dual extrusion, you'll probably start seeing improvement in surface quality against the supports In the cases where I need supports, I carefully consider the model's orientation on the build platform. You have to make compromises between surface quality, detail, total plastic used, build time, adhesion.. and probably more -- that's what makes the game fun.
  22. I've used another 3d printer that had a heated glass bed and had no problems with adhesion, and model removal. Basically -- a bit of glue stick on the glass took care of adhesion, and then allowing the bed to cool to room temp after building, I'd hear a little "ping!" and the parts then just came off. With the Ultimaker I'm having problems with adhesion -- not complaining because I know it's normal and know what to do about it.. But I'm also having a big problem with model removal.... I've tried cooling in the refrigerator to 40F, but no luck. This is happening with both PLA and ABS -- and the thermal expansion rate of those vs glass should be different enough to cause the parts to pop free. I'm sure eventually I'll get the model off. (I've done it before), but this significantly adds to the build time/down time. I'm considering purchasing some plate glass cut to size so I can remove the whole shebang and start a new model while working to get the previous model off the plate. I broke one model that took 6 hours to build because I made a wrong move trying to free it. oh well... Edit: Ok so its in the freezer now... Here's the question... What approaches should I take to remove a crazy stuck part?
  23. will definitely try these methods out. thanks for your help! was hoping to have this model by morning, and its lookong good so far....
  24. It was the build platform level... and the height... The recommendation was to make it so the paper "just" have friction... But I guess not all paper is made the same... I'd like to come up with a repeatable way to set the build platform... Other than that, now I'm seeing another beautiful Ultimaker print in progress.. Thanks for the tips.
  25. I switched back to stock the stock Ultimaker PLA that came with the machine to eliminate the materials variable. Ran the same model long enough to see the brim is still stranded. Once the platform cools to room temp I'll set the bed level/height again. Edit. What I noticed was the brim was better on the lift of the print than the right -- and when I went back to do the bed level again...yes the right side was looser than the left. Tried to set them all to equal friction on the paper, and a little more friction than I have been. The brim is beginning to print and it looks good now... no more spaghetti ... I'll need to see a few layers to be sure the bed height is not too close to the nozzle though...
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