smorgana

ah.. ok ok! Wouldnt it be funny if it only takes a minute with a razor blade? Instead I might sit here and design a wrench that exactly fits the contours of the model so I can pull it off the plate. I'd have to print the wrench though Ok.. getting over fears of sharp instruments and going in!

Sadly, the model is still stuck and careful prying with a sharp knife is not helping... I don't like razor blades, or x-acto knives -- have scars to show for that... Part of the problem is I'm trying not to break the model... I'll give up on that. Other than that.. once it's off I'll experiment with nothing at all for PLA, and with hair spray. Thanks for all the advice.

I'm wondering if the reason for some find it easy some find it hard can be found in platform height. If the platform is too low from the nozzel -- I know for a fact that the first layer doesn't adhere well or at all... Wondering if too close a platform causes the first layer to adhere too well?? I did move the platform extra close for the print before this one....

ah... I hesitate to use a metal tool, but I'm at that point now... Freezing did not help.. Yes it's likely that the glue is an issue here. I froze it at 0 degrees F for about an hour... and still thermal expansion rates are not helping me... maybe the thaw cycle will break it free... The funny thing is... I think if I wanted to glue a part with glue stick to a piece of glass, I'd have trouble having it hold... I am definitely up for forgoing glue on PLA for some test runs... but i'm kind of blocked here, having only one plate to work with.

Just to note: this is not an Ultimaker specific problem... The way I see it... In order to get a relatively smooth surface (tops and bottoms) that layer needs to be "squished" into the previous layer.. when you use a support layer, such as grids or lines, that is not possible, so you basically get the contour of the filament as it was extruded. To get a smooth layer against a support, the top of the support would need to be flat, but that defeats the ability to remove the support after the model is done. In other words supports depend on bad contact with the model in order to be removable, and bad contact means rough surface. I've read about dissolvable supports... should we ever get that plus dual extrusion, you'll probably start seeing improvement in surface quality against the supports In the cases where I need supports, I carefully consider the model's orientation on the build platform. You have to make compromises between surface quality, detail, total plastic used, build time, adhesion.. and probably more -- that's what makes the game fun.

I've used another 3d printer that had a heated glass bed and had no problems with adhesion, and model removal. Basically -- a bit of glue stick on the glass took care of adhesion, and then allowing the bed to cool to room temp after building, I'd hear a little "ping!" and the parts then just came off. With the Ultimaker I'm having problems with adhesion -- not complaining because I know it's normal and know what to do about it.. But I'm also having a big problem with model removal.... I've tried cooling in the refrigerator to 40F, but no luck. This is happening with both PLA and ABS -- and the thermal expansion rate of those vs glass should be different enough to cause the parts to pop free. I'm sure eventually I'll get the model off. (I've done it before), but this significantly adds to the build time/down time. I'm considering purchasing some plate glass cut to size so I can remove the whole shebang and start a new model while working to get the previous model off the plate. I broke one model that took 6 hours to build because I made a wrong move trying to free it. oh well... Edit: Ok so its in the freezer now... Here's the question... What approaches should I take to remove a crazy stuck part?

will definitely try these methods out. thanks for your help! was hoping to have this model by morning, and its lookong good so far....

It was the build platform level... and the height... The recommendation was to make it so the paper "just" have friction... But I guess not all paper is made the same... I'd like to come up with a repeatable way to set the build platform... Other than that, now I'm seeing another beautiful Ultimaker print in progress.. Thanks for the tips.

I switched back to stock the stock Ultimaker PLA that came with the machine to eliminate the materials variable. Ran the same model long enough to see the brim is still stranded. Once the platform cools to room temp I'll set the bed level/height again. Edit. What I noticed was the brim was better on the lift of the print than the right -- and when I went back to do the bed level again...yes the right side was looser than the left. Tried to set them all to equal friction on the paper, and a little more friction than I have been. The brim is beginning to print and it looks good now... no more spaghetti ... I'll need to see a few layers to be sure the bed height is not too close to the nozzle though...

Ah.. yes.. Thats another parameter I set... I set the filament diameter to the manufacture spec (my caliper had a dead battery last night -- so did not do a direct measurement...) I'll check that out... Initial layer thickness is set to .3 (the default) which worked for good brim on previous prints. edit. filament diameter checks out to be within spec and set right...

Things have been going well the first few days with my Ultimaker 2.. Tonight though I tried to build a model with brim, and it appears the threads of brim are not adhering to each other... Therefore the brim does not function to help adhere the part to the build platform. So the model lifted in the first few layers... I've used brim before on this printer and it was solid -- the difference tonight is I am printing at .2mm layers, and set the temperature according to the filament manufacturer's specifications... So though previous attempts with Black ABS from the same manufacturer at the default 260c worked well, when I switched to orange ABS I noticed a puff of smoke on the initial mid air prime, and so thought I should set the temp down to within spec at 230c. Here is a pic.. if anyone has advice I'd appreciate it... I'm re-running the print right now with no parameter changes, except I've applied another layer of glue stick -- and it seems to be going well, and is now past the point where the previous print failed. Edit: Second print failed a few minutes after posting this message... I'll probably try a different model orientation that has better adhesion in and of itself, but it would be great to learn what's going wrong here..

Hi, sorry cant make it to the Maker Faire.. I'm in westen NY so its an 8 hour drive. Having lots of fun with my Ultimaker 2... impressed by the quality of the parts it makes!

Just got my Ultimaker 2 today. I have to say I am very impressed with things such as: Instructions to unpack Instructions to set up And the first run wizard Bed leveling was extremely easy. First robot print in PLA was fantastic. It is very very quiet. The lights stay on so I can have a camera on it in an unlit room to remote monitor it. and of course that it is open source.

The first thing I did was put a cheap wifi network cam that I had available. X10 runs sales on these all the time.