stephang

Hello guys, First of all, congratulations to the developer for this dual extrusion upgrade for the UM2. I really appreciate your effort! Now to my contribution for the contest. Some months ago, I started a build of an A330 home cockpit. Some years ago, I did not get the chance to become a real commercial pilot. As I am now an aerospace engineer I want to satisfy my desire to fly an airliner (only virtual). The picture below shows the status of the cockpit (very basic until now). To save costs, I want to print most of the parts on my UM2. Because a lot of parts are visible or will be touched during the operation, a clean and smooth surface is a must. Therefore, a dual extrusion with the possibility to print PVA support would bring my project a step forward. Two examples for my application: 1. Currently I can only control the aircraft via the pedals. But in the real A330 the ground steering is done with a so-called tiller. On Thingiverse is already a model of such a tiller available (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1592935). To realize a smooth surface, because you touch this every flight, I want to print this with PVA support. 2. The Flight Control Unit (FCU) which controls the autopilot is bought. It can be seen at the top of the main panel in the picture above. Unfortunately, the size of the knobs is far off and I want to replace them with some with real measurements. I already got a photo and the exact size from a real A330 pilot (photo below). I think during my build I will have a lot of other applications for the dual extrusion. Regards Stephan

I can confirm, that ordering a UM 2+ feeder "standalone" is somehow not possible (i asked the german reseller iGo3D). I already installed the Olsson Block long time ago. I will now probably go with the Bondtech feeder although I like the slim design of the 2+ feeder a little bit more.

I spoke with a Colorfabb 3D printing engineer and he told me that the corkfill is slightly elastic. But I think only a review can give further information about this stuff.

Looks like PEEK chips from a lathe.

Hey guys, I have designed and published a case to hold all your different nozzle sizes and also different materials. So you don´t have to count the points on it ;-) A little feature is the plug, which shows you the current installed nozzle. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/nozzle-case

Hi, I have finished the first print with your settings. Absolutely gorgeous! Viele Grüße aus Aachen Stephan

Ok then it was my misunderstanding of the spiralize option. Any tips how I can remove such ugly results like in the picture below. Wall thickness 0,8mm

Yes, the printer is 2 month old. But I think I found the main error, because the cube looks mostly good (i think not perfect). What is your opinion? In the first post I had activated the "spiralize" option because the picture show the ground plate of a vase. I thought it would print the bottom layer normal and print only the walls with the spiralize option. But here is my g-code and ini file: cube.zip

Hello, I printing currently with my new Colorfabb material and I recognized small gaps between each line. I read a lot of belt tension and have retighten the small y-belts (they were so tight as before). Maybe someone has some tips for me. The image was taken after 5-6 layers printed. Cura Setting: - layer heigt 0,1mm - print speed 50mm/s - print temperature 210°C

I have a similar problem with Cura 14.10RC3. I print a vase at a shell thickness of 0,8mm (tried in 0,4mm and it´s the same problem). I have attached a screenshot of the small travels.

I think I have also this problem. I printed unti yesterday only with Ultimaker PLA and testing now Colorfabb PLA. I print the Colorfabb with 200°C (higher temperature causes bubbles). With the Ultimaker PLA this problem not occurs. I have printed with 100% fan. I read through this thread but didn´t found a solution for this problem. EDIT: Ok also reproduced with Ultimaker PLA, set material flow to 120% and everything was "fine" now. Also interested in a better solution of this problem. Already printed the underextrusion test, everything fine up to 10mm³/s.

Haken war gesetzt, habe ihn jetzt für den Druck weggenommen und es klappt nun alles! Vielen Dank! Empfiehlt es sich die Funktion auf Dauer deaktiviert zu lassen?

Die Druckgeschwindigkeit im ersten Layer ist auf 20mm/s eingestellt. Habe es in Cura sowie manuell im G-Code überprüft. I have printed the first layer with 20mm/s. Checked it in Cura and the G-Code.

Hallo, ich bin Stephan und habe seit ein paar Wochen den Ultimaker 2. Bisher hat er mir stets super Ergebnisse geliefert. Nun habe ich jedoch ein Problem, dazu habe ich ein Video aufgenommen. http://youtu.be/ridfgbcB8_k Der Ultimaker soll 4 Kreise drucken und zieht nach dem Kreis Filamentrückstände mit sich bzw. bei den Kreisen auf der rechten Seite kräuselt sich das Filament beim drucken. Habe bereits die Travelspeed auf 100mm/s reduziert (siehe Video) aber es hat sich nichts geändert. Ich vermute, dass es sich um ein Retraction Problem handelt. Druckgeschwindigkeit im ersten Layer sind 20mm/s. Als Filament dient das Original Filament von Ultimaker das ich bei 210°C drucke. Wenn mir jemand Lösungsvorschläge geben kann, wäre ich sehr dankbar. Viele Grüße aus Aachen Stephan