francfalco
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Posts posted by francfalco
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Hi forum,
Has anyone on here tried this upgrade kit - did a quick search here for threads but nothing obvious?
"]http://e3d-online.com/Ultimaker-Extrusion-Upgrade-Kit[/url]
If so, is it any good and potentially, would it be an alternative to the UM2+ upgrade kit?
Just interested as its a cheaper upgrade option
Cheers all
Franc
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Hi all,
Just tried update the firmware on my UM2 via CURA 2.1.2 on the mac platform.
Initially gave me the 'updating firmware, may take some time' progress bar.
Left it processing while i went out but on return no progress.
I restarted the software, reconnected cables and restarted the UM2, but now no version of CURA connects to the printer and switching on the printer, only the fan spins - no other front panel lights or build area lights come on??
I'm stumped and my printer is without life??
Any mac savvy users out there can help please
Cheers
Franc
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Agree, they may be rubbish but at $14 i think i'll take a chance!
I'll let you know what i think
cheers
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Hi all,
Just checking with you knowledgeable folk if anyone can vouch for these nozzles being any good - they seem really cheap?? 9 nozzles for $14!!
Was just about to order a set but thought 'hold on' lets check!
Opinions if i may.
Cheers
Franc
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Thanks, looks a bit involved.
But i did manage to get the temp sensor and heater wires out from my old block, so i reckon if i can do that without destroying the printer, i can do this!
Just out of interest, if i'm using the larger (0.8mm) OB nozzle with high flow, what are the signs that the 25W heater isn't upto the task?
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So whilst not critical, it is advisable to upgrade to the 35W heater if running the OB - yes?
Had my OB in for a few months now and its been working great with my standard 25W version, but the quicker/stronger heat-up does sound a good upgrade, especially if using larger nozzles?
Just checking if its an easy upgrade and where the video tutorial is - there must be one i'm sure
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That's a double post of this, isn't it?
It is - i was doubling my chances of getting some feedback!
I understand the problem and that its not too critical, but i'm still not exactly sure how to fix it?
I do some more research
cheers
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The black specks are part of your belt, so it may not be urgent but you probably do want to take a look at it.
It is probably the belt rubbing against a rim or side of a pulley.
You can change this by either seeing if you can improve the alignment of the spacer, or replace the pulley slightly, maybe like a mm.
Hi SandervG,
Thanks for the update.
Have you any guidance/how to (video/blogs) on what i need to actually do to improve alignment of the spacer or align pulley please?
cheers
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Hi and a Happy New Year to all!
So I've been reading on a couple of resent threads about some UM2 having the issue of spacers/bearings being slightly out of align and causing belts to grind? I'd never heard of that before but looking at my machine, I've noticed some black specks on my stepper motor case as above (I always assumed it was normal dust?), but it may be this grinding belt issue?.
I havent noticed any effect in print quality but just wondering if:
1. Is it something that I should fix?
2. How can it be fixed?
3. What causes it?
Over to you guys.
Cheers
Franc
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Hi and a Happy New Year to all!
So I've been reading on a couple of resent threads about some UM2 having the issue of spacers/bearings being slightly out of align and causing belts to grind? I'd never heard of that before but looking at my machine, I've noticed some black specks on my stepper motor case as above (I always assumed it was normal dust?), but it may be this grinding belt issue?.
I havent noticed any effect in print quality but just wondering if:
1. Is it something that I should fix?
2. How can it be fixed?
3. What causes it?
Over to you guys.
Cheers
Franc
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Just fitted the Olsson block to my UM2.
I wish i had read this thread before fitting - that temp sensor was a tricky bugger to get out of the old block, but oil, pliers and tapping the block away whilst holding onto the metal sensor finally got it free. I also found the Olson block was really hard to screw on, certainly isn't cross threaded, just really stiff in threading on?
But it has all gone back together and i have to admit that being able to change nozzles in a few minutes and the ability to experiment with different sized nozzles and materials is great!
I've put the original fans shroud back on but i see that people have been experimenting with various upgraded/redesigned shrouds, specifically for the Olsson upgrade - just wondering if there is a general agreement on if i should change shroud and if so, to which one?
Also, been testing the 0.25 nozzle - i do see a finer result but i can't quite manage to get a really clean finish - slight stringing spoils the print. Obviously, retraction and temp will be main parameters to tweak, but again, just wondering if anyone has found the 'sweet-spot' settings for the smaller nozzle?
I will continue playing - but i must say, great design and product Mr Olsson, well done and love the torque wrench too!
cheers
Franc
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Great news for new users but where can existing owners buy the Olsson block?
Any freebies going for loyal UM2 owners?
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Never crossed my mind to record normal speed and then speed up in post production!
I too use 10s frames, agree not great but it does the job, but i may try the full record - i have a new iPhone with lots of space, so that might be an option now.
I'm also trying to incorporate a camera Pan into my time lapses, wonder if there is an easy way to do that?
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@francfalco and/or share a step file ?
Hi guys,
The only 2 printers i have access to are UM2 and MB, so i'm sure the clamp part won't fit anything else?
Unfortunately, my 3d modelling software is C4D and no STEP file export available.
Sorry
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Looking forward to find the stl file!
On Youmagine:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um-2-iphone-time-lapse-mount
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Do you love a 3d print time-lapse video, but can't be bothered with set up?
My latest 3d printable design solves that and with 2 camera mounts as well!
Sliding frame mount and ball/socket articulated arms with snap rings to keep those joints tight.
Move your camera into any shooting angle you need. I've created phone mounts for my iphone 5 and 6.
Coming to a download library soon!
Cheers
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Hi Viralata,
Sorry not to respond sooner - i've been away...
If you mean how did i get the texture onto the surface of the earth (soil)?
It was actually most complex part to model! The basic shape is the inner area of the outer pot. I then created a 'disc' of textured geometry using a displacement map on a cube to create a positive 'texture'. i then used a boolean to 'cut' that texture disc into the top of the 'soil'. Does that make sense? It doesn't sound too clear to me and i did it!
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Also, check your Bowden tubes are nice and clear and filament runs through them without any obvious resistance.
But just as importantly, i would also give your printer a bit of a vacuum and clean - won't help the under extrusion, but it'll look much better in the Thread shots!
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Nice review, but nothing us users didn't know already, but great for a potential new user.
Although, I still question the possibility to print at the often suggested high speeds.
He mentioned that out-the-box, it'll print fine to 120mm/s - in my experience i would disagree with that claim for most print applications, but he says he did? I think any longterm user of a UM2 will admit that claimed 300mm/s printing speeds are not realistic at all - possible, but you'll end up with printer bouncing off the table and a mess of a print!
The Bowden does allow for lighter head and in theory faster print head speeds, but in practice the Bowden is also the 'Achilles heel' of the system and limiteds normal print speed - Capably of 300mm/s but usable at 50mm/s.
I would love to see a object printed at 300mm/s - anyone?
I may try it...
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A Loft window bracket i created ages ago and still does the job everyday:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:405401
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Completely different retraction settings? (just a shot in the dark)
Agreed that would make sense, but apparently retracting settings have been the same for all tests (mine included) - the default: 4.5mm @ 25mm/s.
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Just test printed taikonaught's Bumper car .stl file (chopped the bottom off to save print time).
Front car is standard Cura 15.04 'quick print' PLA settings - looks fine
Rear car has retraction turned off - similar issue
It's got to be a retraction problem - no. What else could it be?
But if retraction is 'on' and working and different temp tests have been done - what could it be if not a retraction issue?
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Yep, there is an extra separate left leg piece of geometry in the model and the ears aren't connected as mentioned, which is obviously confusing the slicer - easy fix as gr5 says with Netfabb. Or if you have 3d software, open the ,stl and you'll be able to select the leg and deleting should work, but do run through Netfabb to confirm.
I would also post a comment on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:760426 to let him know there is a problem, with his file - save anyone else wasting an 11 hour print!
cheers
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Interesting.
So what is the procedure to change filament with a 'cold pull'?
I just follow the 'change material' sequence on the front panel and as you say, the filament is rewound hot from the nozzle often leaving behind fine strands.
E3D Ultimaker 2 Extrusion Upgrade Kit
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Thanks all,
I'm mainly a PLA based (lower temp filament user) so very rarely use high temps.
My UM2 standard extruder motor but OB upgrade prints all PLA based materials well (except full-flex - can't get that to print but semi-flex prints fine).
I'll stick with what i have unless i go for the 2+ upgrade or even the UM3 if Santa received my wish list? ;-)