francfalco
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Posts posted by francfalco
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Intriguing problem you're having...
It so much looks like retraction isn't happening, but as you say it is set up for standard retraction and the printer is actually retracting.
Just out of interest - have you printed with retraction turned off?
Any chance i could to get the .stl file to test on my UM2?
Let me know please
cheers
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Hi all,
My latest project - 3d printed version of the Finger Wrench.
http://www.createprint3d.com/#/finger-wrench/
I thought this a great idea, but is NLA for some crazy reason??
No problem, i just modelled and printed my own version - i love a useful gadget!
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Looks like retraction isn't happening on the second print?
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Did the subsequent layers print any better?
If not it may be that...
your bed is too close to the nozzle
or
you may need a film of glue on the glass
or
you have a slightly clogged nozzle
or
print slightly hotter
or
all of the above
I wouldn't use 'high quality' - start with 'normal' and see how that prints?
good luck
cheers
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Yep, Faberdashery PLA has always worked for me.
Glad you got the issue sorted!
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Having read expert tips, most will say its a good idea to always measure filament and print a test 20mm sq cube at 100% infill to fine-tune extrusion results. I have to admit, i very rarely print the test cube and almost never measure my filament - maybe i've been lucky!
But i'm very interested to see if your white PLA is out of tolerances compared to your black.
Measure along and around a couple of meters of each filament to get a good average of diameter. I'm not too sure what is the + or – allowances for 2.85mm filament are?. I assume they would be a lot more critical with a Bowden tube set up, and i'd imagine there obviously shouldn't be a major variation from spec.
Keep us posted
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Interesting the recent threads mentioning the possibility of the feeder stepper motor heat causing filament softening issues - there's loads of threads on here about extruding issues/underextrusion, etc, but its only recently i've noticed anyone suggesting the feeder motor as a possible contributing factor or has this been discussed before?
Does seem feasible with hot external temp some people are experiencing i suppose - and the suggestion of a cooling fan on the stepper motors makes sense.
In fact all the motors do get very hot in normal use - is there any benefit to cool all 3 motors i wonder?
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I have heard from other users that indeed different colours from the same manufacturer behave differently when extruded and some people even go the lengths of a different bespoke profile for each specific colour - does seem like a lot of unnecessary work, but there you go, you seemed to have proved that point.
Maybe its time to contact Colourfab and see what they say?
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If i print PLA i only ever use Faberdashery filament, its never let me down.
Yep, Faberdashery 3mm is for 2.85mm extruders
Can you post some detailed (close view) pics of my Gcode printed on your machine please
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I cant see from the image - which were the best settings?
I've uploaded my Gcode test files to Youmagine
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Yep, smaller is better for testing but i wouldn't go any smaller for this test exercise - you need a bit of surface area to test extrusion covering i would suggest.
I'll upload print files shortly, i'm just printing out a set of my teeth at the moment!
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Finally got around to testing the .stl.I cropped into one corner to save time and tested 'quick print' Fast (10% infill)
Then tested 20 & 25% infill and tweaked the infill speed to match layer speed (all printed at 50mm/s at 210C PLA from Faberdashery)
[/media][/media]25% infill was best, but even 10% was acceptable but did suffer in a couple of corners to not quite cover the surface.
So model is good and Cura does a pretty good job on my UM2, so your covering/under-extruding issue needs more investigation, but it can be achieved?
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what ill try today is to print the top infill and the outer Shell at 25 mm/s (first Shells, then infill) the rest at 50 mm/s, with 223 - 225 C
those temperatures are not uncommon with PLA right?
Well, on the UM2 i print my PLA at 210C
but on the MB Rep 2 at 230C
I wouldn't normally need to go any higher than 230C for PLA
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a little bit better... but still... not closed
Are you changing settings?
What are the new settings that are improving the finish?
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I already prepared it THE STL, and the INI File... Now, HOW can i upload it here? for you guys to test it?
Exactly my point, if you make available your original .stl (not the sliced file) then we can slice and print from your original file. And then if others can print it successfully, then potentially, with those settings (slicer settings, temp, speed, etc.) can be shared and hopefully help with your issue.
I did request you to send me your .stl file via email: info.co.uk in the previous version of this thread but i never got a response?
But to upload your .stl via this thread, there must be a way surely? Anyone?
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Isn't this thread is a separate continuation of 'Fatal Under extrusion, Top layers looks REAlly BAD' thread? What happened to that thread - it appears that this issue is being heavily discussed but getting nowhere!
I'm still intrigued to see if esteban-pacheco has made the .stl available and others have printed it successfully with a nice clean closed top surface - cant see any reference to that?
Can the .stl file be made available please for others to test?
cheers
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Same here - i had the feeder wheel 'flatten' the filament before it got into the Bowden tube.
Must have been the v hot weather we had in the UK recently - that won't last but a cooling fan on that feeder stepper motor does sound interesting...
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A) im trying that right now, ill let the printer working over night and see what happens.
b) about the file, how can i share it?
C) you say that cura cannot coupe with surfaces???? so all this issues im having with the bottom top (surfaces) is an software issue?
Been away for a few days - doesn't seem like the problem is solved or even close?
Sorry to revisit if all this has been tried but just checking...
So the following didn't improve anything,
1. 26% infill
2. Changing filament
3. Using a different version of Cura.
In my experience Cura (so far) is okay at fine resolution, but not great at 2.0 and above. Z scarring, blobbing, top layer often under extruded and the z wall ridges you have shown are all common - for me anyway. And judging by the multiple posts here, for others also. I've experimented with other slicers to see if its hardware or software and S3D can improve certain aspects so i guesstimate its a slicer issue, but i appreciate there are challenges to the UM Bowden/drive configuration that can also cause issue.
I use Makerware slicer at work on a MB Rep 2 and that can produce better infill, surface results, at 0.2 - 0.3mm, but i struggle with it at .2 and higher - i just wish i could test Makerware on my UM2!
I still didn't see if you had uploaded your file for others to test and show it can be printed?
Or please send me the file via email: info.co.uk
Can you do that please, i would love to test it on my UM2 - there is a way to upload and make available files - i believe (but never done it myself).
keep me posted please
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Can you share the .stl file - i'd love to see if others can get the result you're after.
Did you try the 26% (not 25%) infill as other have mentioned.
I have to admit for me Cura isn't the best slicer for surface quality - as you mentioned it can be hit and miss, but other swear by it so there is a way i'm sure?
And are you sure the filament you're using is okay - have you tested with another make?
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First time I've printed with the extrusion test cylinder.
I reckon my machine passed with flying colours!
But i do think it has a lot to do with filament - I swear by Faberdashery here in the UK.
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My latest little project -
Ninjaflex via a standard UM 2 feeder.
0.2mm 240C @ 20mm/s 30% infill, no retraction.
Took 15 hours but came out really well.
I'll test a quicker speed and less infill next time.
Cheers
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Understood Markus, thanks for giving me options.
Out of interest, have you any example pictures to show the before and after print quality improvement using your design?
I've always thought the filament cooling was a weak point with the printer so any user designed improvements are always of interest to me.
Thanks for sharing!
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Looks interesting - i may try that.
How does it improve on the Venkel version if i have already solved the heater error issue?
Under-extrusion - Is your Bowden tube 'really' clean?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted · Edited by Guest
Hi all,
I, like most people on here have had and the occasional 'unexplained' under-extrusion issue - one minute printing fine and then the next, thin layers, gaps and weak extrusion.
Interestingly for me, i was printing Ninjaflex over the weekend and i had an issue with under-extrusion. Nozzle was clean and extruder tension was fine. But then i noticed in the Bowden tube a 'hair' of previous filament stuck in the tube - almost invisible, but had been left behind from the previous 'change filament'. I had to disconnect the tube at both end and run a piece of filament through and then i noticed the 'hair' bundling up into a mini birds nest as i pushed it through and out of the tube.
A quick lube with some Olive oil and the Ninjaflex slid through the tube with ease.
I know this won't be a 'fix all' solution, but something to check if you don't already?
NOTE: don't be tempted to blow through the tube to clear it, it'll only leave behind moisture which will make filament stick like crazy - ask me how i know...
Cheers