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flowalistik

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Everything posted by flowalistik

  1. Si, los de E3D sacaron una especie de "calcetín" y la verdad es que es interesante. Creo que para la Ultimaker 2 no hay un accesorio parecido, aunque @neotko estuvo un tiempo intentando hacer algo parecido de forma casera, pero no estoy seguro de si consiguió buenos resultados. La Ultimaker 3 tiene en el nozzle un anillo de silicona que, combinado con una placa de silicona en la cabeza extrusora, sella el interior y el exterior para que en caso de fallo en la impresión no haya que limpiar mas de lo necesario. También sirve para que los ventiladores de capa no enfien el nozzle de forma innecesaria. Es decir, es algo más complejo que la solución de E3D y no se si podría adaptarse facilmente. Desde luego de forma casera y con los materiales adecuados podría conseguirse, pero oficialmente creo que no hay ninguna opción para la Ultimaker 2.
  2. I just think Ultimaker doesn't need to boost their sales for the moment. Their discounts usually makes sense and aren't just a flash thing. However, I wish they did some Black Friday discounts, specially on the Upgrade kit!
  3. Considering most of the users will keep the same two cores plugged most of the time, the calibration process is not a daily thing. In case you needed to go from AA+AA to AA+BB, I would strongly recommend to order the prints so you only need to recalibrate once. And about using a one nozzle multi extrusion approach, there's one big limitation: temperature. Both materials need to have very similar temperatures. If it wasn't for that, it would definitely be the best option in my opinion.
  4. flowalistik

    Infill layer

    Ya varias personas propusieron para la Ultimaker 3 un nozzle gordo para infill y otro fino para las paredes, pero hasta que les apetezca implementarlo pueden pasar muchos meses.
  5. flowalistik

    Infill layer

    Qué tipo de pieza quieres hacer? A veces las piezas son más resistentes utilizando un infill menor que 100%. No estoy seguro de si el infill al 100% puede ser modificado como quieres, pero yo te recomendaría aumentar la velocidad del infill (en Cura 2.X se puede modificar la margen de la velocidad de las paredes). Al margen de las diferentes opciones, la impresión 3D es algo lento, y a veces por mucho que quieras imprimir rápido, hay un mínimo. @neotko tu que eres el genio de la optimización, se te ocurre algún truco?
  6. I will try to share soon some Pokemon eggs designs so you can try it by yourselves. The design process is just as Didier said. I designed the egg surrounding the model and I exported it as if it was a PLA/PLA print, but I chose to use PVA for the outer part (the egg), with a nice surface to start printing PLA just over it without any adhesion problem.
  7. Yes @Titus I already tried that one! It's really cool, because PVA is translucent and you can see a shape inside, but you can't guess what it is. I gave it to a friend as a birthday present and it saved me some money of a real present. If I print some more I will take some pictures while printing, it's really addictive to watch the model being printed inside another shape.
  8. The first time I saw about it it looked too easy, but when you check the printhead and see the mechanism, there is more complexity hidden there. I'm sure at Ultimaker HQ they tested all the different ways, and in the end they chose the most reliable one: the mechanical switch. Also, and for all the people that want this printhead on the UM2, I don't see how this could be easily adapted without having to change the panels and other parts. It's not about being Ultimaker fanboys, we all wish it was possible to hack the Ultimaker until it was the best machine ever, but the results first need to meet some quality standards.
  9. I've already poked one of our hardware engineers about this. As far as I know (I'm just a software guy, so don't pin me down on this) it should be possible to back-port the um3 bed to the UM2. If there is a lot of interest for this, we could have a serious look at this. Take a look - guess, it can also be (community)ported to UMO/UMO+ too (of course, they're discontinued, but would be a nice...) For the lifting mechanism it seems like there is the block at the end with a small slit in it, and when the nozzle needs changing, the printhead goes into the corner so that a tiny lever (on the side of the printhead) fits into the slit, and then by moving the printhead forwards or backwards, it can flip the lever to tilt the internal mechanisms. I'm not positive, but it seems to be like that from the video. It's a small switch mechanism that lifts the right nozzle, and it's activated by a small part in the right panel, which is in charge of switching between cores. It's mechanical solution.
  10. Version 1.0

    1,677 downloads

    Dual Extrusion Low-Poly Squirtle
  11. heuuuuu y a 4 couleurs sur ton pokemon, ça devient compliqué Il n'y a que deux buses, mais j'ai reussi à imprimer un Pokemon en (seulement) 3 couleurs il y a deux jours, donc, il ne faudra pas attendre à l'Ultimaker 4.
  12. Hopefully there actually is, but it has not been announced like the UM3 because it's still in development and made by the community (@foehnsturm is the our saviour!)
  13. That's awesome! I didn't know about that. I didn't get to watch the videos yet, just saw the tweets. This is going to be an exciting printer to watch what the community does with when they get their hands on it. and +1 on the UM2+ being the best single head. Still 100% happy with my purchase of it. It's still on my list to learn some programming or understand how firmware really works, but from the designer perspective, this printer opens new possibilities not even the engineers imagined about. We will hack it until it bricks!
  14. 0.8 and above nozzles are for fast prototyping, and I love them, but you better not want sharp details as @xeno says... And just to say, the 0.8mm nozzle + wood filament is the best combination I've tried as the texture hides the lack of details or the classic Z texture due to layer deposit.
  15. I recommend to get some pump to move the water, it helps a lot. But don't think that you need very big and professional equipment to use PVA, just a 5€ aquarium pump should work fine with a small bucket. I used a small bucket and a toothbrush to remove PVA from some prints, and although it takes some minutes (5 minutes for a 10cm print with a lot of PVA), it can be done with no problem. Just make sure that after working with PVA you wash your hands and the bucket or what you use, because PVA tends to deposit on the bottom.
  16. There are launch parties in different countries, but I am not sure in which ones. At least I know there is one in Spain, The Netherlands, United States, Canada... I am sure @sanvervg know more about it. The only thing I am sure about is that tomorrow at 17:00 no matter where you live, you will know how the new Ultimaker looks like.
  17. Don't worry about new products coming out, that will always happen, and you would need to have a lot of money and time to have the newest products. If you had purchased an UM2 I may be able to understand some frustration, but the UM2+ is pure reliability, and it is for sure a huge improvement compared to the UM2, which is already a good machine. And the thing I like the most is that you're not the only one that will want new features in their machines. There are lots of users here hacking and improving their Ultimakers, and if you do a quick search you will see dual extrusion already exists on the UM2.
  18. Yeah, I kinda wish Ultimaker would come out w/ a budget printer or something that's newer than the UMO and UMO+ but still within 1k. I'm an UMO+ fanboy, and I wish Ultimaker considered an UMO++, but I guess that would be just an UMO+ with the (UM2+) upgrade kit (which @neotko has already done with very cool results). For now I'd like to see cool new features, and if possible, I would like even more if those new features were adapted to the UMO(+) by the community! I'm 100% in if someone wants to hack some Ultimakers.
  19. On doit faire quelque chose pendant l'attente. Mon domaine: les GIFs et le low poly.
  20. @DidierKlein je suis venu te proteger!
  21. The Prusa i3 MK2 looks great, and considering the price, there are very little printers that offer more for the same price. The only thing I don't like about those designs is that they cannot be enclosed without building a big structure around. They sure can be disassembled, but I really appreciate the idea of seeing a printer and being able to see the actual size. However, this is not a real problem for most of the makers. I'm really glad the Prusa i3 is still alive and even up to Ultimaker's quality. It's the best thing for the community!
  22. That's a good idea and as an eco-friendly maniac I see it as a MUST, but I'm afraid Ultimaker is more interested in creating a more reliable machine in order to avoid failed prints. Only a true maker would be a happy customer after seeing a print failing and having the possibility to recover it!
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