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mutrax

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  1. Sory to revive; but decided to give slic3r another shot because I needed some advanced settings. Solution to stated problem can be found here; http://www.extrudable.me/2013/11/03/slic3r-strange-defaults-causing-qu-bd-woes/
  2. thanks for the reply. ATM, I looked solely to specs, and xeed was the only one that fitted the bill. They will be providing on site training, so we'll se how it will work out. I'm pretty curious how they handle the oozing... For the high-end prosumer models, there are little or no user reviews :() I'm a UM2 fan myself, the single head was the only turndown for that machine (plexi cabinet is easily made). Personally, I can't wait for the um3 specs..... Oh, we never watched the pricetag as being "proffesional", just the aftersales support (Leila from UM for example, does an exelent job in making UM support the best i've ever experienced for electronics, machinery,...), finishing grade of the machine, and features.
  3. Well "the bullet is trough the church" We decided upon the leapfrog xeed. Why? -no SLS available in current pricerange/buget. Soonest machines will be available Q1 / Q2 next year, but how reliable will these first sub-20000€ machines be? -Powder jetting, expensive consumeables (how long supported?), brittle? -So FDM, large as possible build volume without sacrifice in accuracy. -dual head (support material in hips or sla) -enclosed -Machine as proffesional as possible (company, build quality, local support) -Second place was Creatr HS XL, but accuracy was less, and not enclosed,... -Looked at Bulder extreme 2000, but specs (even after contact) to foggy, risk of buying a expensive machine that doesn't pay up. and accuracy. -Concidered many others, but they failed at accuracy, local support or lack of proffesional support (most printers are meant for consumers/prosumers) The big ones (3dsystems, stratasys,...) offer FDM printers, but overpriced and at first glance and not as future-proof and flexible as their prosumer counterparts. So anyone experience with the xeed? PS./ these are personal experiences and research, these machines where not physically reviewed.
  4. Hey you guys, Serious question here. What should I buy when I have a buget of 20.000 € ? At home I have a U2, but for proffesional use (and less 3D-printing savvy users), is this still the best option? Are there any "push print and don't bother anymore" printers withint that price range? Is SLS an option? Rather not have something with "chipped" consumables (read standarised consumeables like filament, powder, resin,....) Thanks!
  5. I've been using the ppt gui (osm bundle) that can do this with an ordinary camera! It's been used in archology, but you can use it in wathever. Very hard at first to get good results, but the effort pays of. Caveats; shiny surfaces and bad lighting. No rig required! Example ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CxrP1TcdqDc Download here; http://184.106.205.13/arcteam/ppt.php If intrested I'll dig up what I know of it.
  6. Curiosity killed me. Did a cylinder 6cm vby 6cm via latest cura and octoprint. ABS, full fans 220hotend 80table. I'm amazed at my first result!
  7. Hi Brian, Closing up the build volume is a big help! I made a lid for the front (without needing to drill holes!) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-temperature-lid To cover the top is a bit trickier, for now I use a blanket of kitchen towel that I keep in place with some paper tape, but thats far from ideal (looks awful and the bowden gets deformed)
  8. Ik gooi het op de volgende oudervereniging samenkomst op tafel! (Directie is daar ook bij)
  9. Hoi Marcella, Tof initiatief! Doe je ook België aan?
  10. +1 same here,even mixed colors like that... gives you a nice dual tone part!
  11. You can test a kilo for free the 3dprima filament says "made in china". See here
  12. Hey, Searching for a good ABS supplier for my UM2, I stumbled upon this thread. So I ordered a spool. They delivered the wrong spool (1.75mm). After contacting their sales support, they're sending me the correct spool, but it's more expensive to return it then giving it away. So... If you live near Hasselt , give me a PM, and the spool is yours!
  13. What material? What temperatures? what settings? What slicer? I'm guessing ABS? In that case , keep the heat in your machine! First try with some cardboard and some sticky tape for the front, and try to close the top too
  14. jup. Did both, all seems ok. This problem doesn't occur when using cure... so It has something todo with the way the gcode gets generated. You can fix this with regular infill by using a % overlap, but this setting doesn't exist in slic3r for top infills.
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