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nick-s

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About nick-s

  • Birthday 01/01/2015

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Engineering
  • Country
    GB
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  1. I agree with gr5. I used to only make ABS parts in an enclosed UM2 with ABS juice for adhesion. This worked well most times and occasionally removed lumps of glass from the bed with the print. I was always a little concerned about overheating the enclosed UM2 and the high temp hot end limiting its life. I have now switched to nGen and found this a good alternative to ABS and much easier to print. For this I only use the thin pva system on a 90 deg bed and do not enclose the machine. It obviously depends upon your applications, but it's definitely worth trying out.
  2. You most certainly can print lettering like this. I am in England UK and make a business from doing this type of work for a variety of customer types. To see examples of what can be done go to sheardown3d.co.uk A lot of my lettering also has positive or negative draft around the sides, for casting purposes. We normally use Colorfabb nGen material for this work on a UM2 machine. As DidierKlein says, it depends on the size and the only real limitation is the bed size. Even with this, I have made letters and words etc in parts and glued them together, which works well.
  3. There are lots of other free CAD programmes available that may be better for you than Sketchup. I started with Design Spark Mechanical from RS Components. Take a look at these two suggestions: https://www.rs-online.com/designspark/mechanical-software https://www.tinkercad.com/
  4. Here is a link to the guide I use for replacing the nozzle. Its the Olsson version, but works for the original nozzle as well and helps with the Teflon tube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1Nh0snHLYw After some 2 years plus of good printing on the UM2 I have also just started getting gaps between lines, a lack of cover or pillowing on final layers and other under extrusion problems. I changed the Teflon part first but this did not fully solve it. Finally replaced with a new Olsson nozzle and it did the trick.
  5. Hi lukem. Are you fully printing the first case and it grinds when starting on the second? When you put this into Cura, did you look at the Layers option and see how it does? it may help if you could give us your settings, speeds and temps.
  6. Hi Everyone. Thanks for asking. It's stopped raining, so things are looking up. I have been a bit busy lately, so have only just realised that I have not received any emails from the forums that I have been following. So logged in and just amazed at what I have found. What happened to the old one? I always feel that change is not easy but it happens, so just get used to it. Particularly after Microsoft does it to the new version of word or excel, and you have to hunt through the menus again to find what you know is there some where. Now starting to find my way around here again. Are there any instructions about how to navigate the new system, see the thread topics and get the follow links going again?
  7. Also, have a look at this great article by Illuminarti on how to use Meshmixer support system: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/12/28/meshmixer-2-0-best-newcomer-in-a-supporting-role/ The free Meshmixer can be a little challenging, but there are some tutorials on Youtube and it is worth persevering with.
  8. I am regularly using ABS and have found the following to be very reliable: Have a clean glass bed and cover with a wash of ABS (the same colour as you intend to print with) dissolved in acetate. This holds the print well and has the added advantage of giving a great smooth bottom to the finished part. Once the print is finished let it cool slowly (which also helps reduce distortion) and you will hear it pop off the glass so it is easy to remove once cooled down. I have a door covering the printers front and box mounted on top. The box has an open bottom for the Bowden tube and cables to enter, but this is not a problem as long as the room the printer is in has no drafts such as open windows. I was initially worried about the box over heating the printers drives etc but monitoring with a laser thermometer showed it to get to about 55 / 60 deg C on the motors. I have been doing this for a while and they seem fine. My standard settings are: layer 0.06 to 0.10mm shell 1.20mm retraction Y - "No skin" setting Bottom / top 1.20mm (to match shell and I need quite robust parts) fill 25% speed 50mm/sec - but also see below speeds which seems to over ride this Bed adhesion brim + wash as above nozzle 0.4mm initial layer 0.3mm travel speed150mm/sec bottom speed 20mm/sec infill speed 50mm/sec top/bottom speed 30mm/sec outer shell speed30mm/sec inner shell speed 50mm/sec min layer time 5sec NO FANS at any time Bed temp 100 deg C Nozzle temp 250 deg C These speeds and layer heights can make for some slow prints, but I need the quality. I am sure you could speed them up a little if not needing high quality. Hope this helps in at least giving you a starting point.
  9. As advised above I print Marvin as a twin. I found the best orientation was with them each facing a fan i.e. built back to back facing left and right across the bed. This helps the air to flow between the legs as well as onto the faces, for the eye slots and top hat ridge. Also position them with enough gap between for the fans to work on one while its twin is being made. This also helps to cool the top loops.
  10. Have a look at this article. It gives great tips on finishing methods, friction welding and filling with a Dremel like tool. http://makezine.com/projects/make-34/skill-builder-finishing-and-post-processing-your-3d-printed-objects/ After reading this I went out and got my Dremel. It works great. Particularly like the trick on using "rivet" fixings and hinges.
  11. Having the support of this forum definitely helped my purchasing decision. It and the experienced people involved have been very helpful in overcoming many issues. And welcome to the group Krys.
  12. "I keep referring to candles and fried food because the vapors are created similarly - by heating oils to high temperature. You get the same sort of aerosols from a candle or by making a grilled cheese sandwich as you do from heating PLA." I like it. If I could convince my partner that printing is analogous to scented candles I could save a fortune, and some ear ache.
  13. It would be good to hear if some one has a better method, but I use a timer on the power plug. Just make sure it's set well in advance of the print duration. I have ruined a couple of good prints by getting this wrong and killing the power before it's finished.
  14. If it is dust from the environment, try this: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dust-filter Very simple and does the job. I use it all the time now.
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