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dampmaskin

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About dampmaskin

  • Birthday 10/04/1976

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  1. Done. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/4914
  2. Ok, I suspected it was something in that vein. I just wanted to tell the story in case the problem wasn't already known. From what I found reading up on my problem, there's no new firmware for the UMO+ since 15.4 or thereabouts, so I think I'm good. (Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.)
  3. I flashed my UMO+ via USB with Cura 3.6.0, using the automatic option. This zombified my printer: It blanked its screen and seized up the steppers. I power cycled the printer, same result. When trying to home the printer via Cura, the only result was a grinding noise that lasted until I power cycled the printer. I tried to re-flash the firmware several times, to no avail. I then downloaded Cura 15.4.6 and flashed the firmware from there. That solved it.
  4. No need to check: The gaps between the heat bed and the glass plate are clearly visible. The glass plate is resting on the screws. I actually contacted UM support about this when the UMO+ was new, but they didn't get what I meant, so I figured it was probably not that important, and let it go. But now I need to be able to use those corners, so it's DIY time. Great idea about simply using a larger drill bit instead of a countersink bit. That means I don't have to go buy anything. Will try to do it with just removing the glass and the screws, but not the whole heat bed. I should probably carefully vacuum the printer afterwards, to get rid of any metal shavings. Don't want them to find their way into the electronics. Just have to wait until the current print is finished. Update: Even a cheap drill bit cuts the aluminium like butter. I used two different sizes, and managed to get the screw heads level, or in some cases below, the heat bed. Of course I overdid it on one hole, the drill bit chewed in, and I ended up with an ugly, jagged ellipse instead of a nice round hole. Still, it worked. My bed is now practically level, and I believe I can use all of it (avoiding the clips, of course). Mission accomplished. In hindsight, I should have had seven M3 washers ready, because now that the screws sit lower into the heat bed, the nuts bottom out on the screws before everything is snug. The result is that the glass plate clips are slightly loose and wobbly. It hasn't proven to be a problem yet, knock on wood, but I'm still on my first print. If I put some washers between the nuts and the heat bed, the screws will sit tighter and the clips will be more stable and snug again, so sooner or later I will probably do that.
  5. Thanks. It sounds logical. Now to increase the countersinking in the heat plate, so that the glass plate lays flat on it without resting on the corner screw heads, so that I can utilize all of the build plate without the first layer getting squashed to zero thickness near the corners. I'm guessing this will give me a more even and maybe higher build plate temperature as well.
  6. Hi. I have configured Cura 15.04.5 in Machine settings to have a print bed size of 210 x 210 x 205 mm as advertised on the UMO+ page (https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-original). But when I try to put a model measuring 195.4 x 197.5 x 4.4 mm in Cura, the model shows as grey, and Cura refuses to calculate the print time. To make the model yellow in Cura, I need to scale the model down to 96%, which means 187.6 x 189.6 x 4.2 mm. I had the same situation in 15.04.04. I have tried "Center on build platform", and I've tried rotating the model 90 degrees. What am I doing wrong? Update: Size Y = 191.016 mm gives me a yellow model, but y = 191.018 mm gives me gray. When I rotate the model 90 degrees, the size X behaves in exactly the same way. Update 2: I realized that I can trick Cura by setting the build plate to 250 x 250 or something like that. I suppose everything from now on is at my own risk. I still don't understand why the configured limit is one thing, and the real limit seems to be somewhat smaller, but I think I'll make do anyway. Maybe it has something to do with brim/skirt? Both are disabled, but maybe they play a part regardless.
  7. I also print with PLA in my bedroom. No particular ventilation, no particular smell.
  8. Expensive indeed. The reason I was messing with mine to begin with, was because the PTFE piece in my UMO+ had started to deform, leading to jam after jam. I doubt that I'll be able to get the brass tube out of the PEEK insulator now, so I just ordered a full hot end kit. It was over 80 Euro with duty and postage, so I decided to get a backup kit from China as well, for slightly less than 25 Euro. Sorry for the thread necromancy, but I had to vent my frustration somewhere. By the way, why is it brass? Wouldn't steel be much stronger, and maybe even have less thermal conductivity?
  9. I wonder if a configurable bucket grid size would help my prints. I am currently mass producing a part, 15 parts per print. Solid infill. My part is roughly U shaped when viewed from above. On every layer, Cura starts the infill in the middle of one of the "arms" of the U shape. It proceeds to jump a lot back and forth between different parts of the layer. With "optimal" optimization, I think it would be possible to start at one end of the U, and fill in a layer (for a single part) with only one or two travels as it crosses the curve, but Cura 15.04.4 does at least 5 travel (combing) movements for each part, maybe more. Some of the travel movements seem very inefficient and doesn't make sense to me. If I could double or quadruple the bucket grid size (or maybe even increase it to the size of my part), perhaps the optimization would work better? My PC has 32 GB RAM and a nice CPU, and I wouldn't mind waiting for half an hour or more for Cura to optimize my print. After all, each print takes over 3 hours to complete, and I'm doing lots of them, so even if optimizing the path took the whole day, it would still be worth it to me.
  10. From my very short experience with the UMO+, I have seen the same. When some layers have a small "island", Cura 14.12 prints the "island" last in one layer, and first in the next layer. This seriously degrades the quality of the "island" part. I assumed this was an attempt to reduce the number of retractions, but anyway, it does not seem to be good for the print quality.
  11. Thanks for the tips. I have a ticket open already. I know a jeweller's shop where I can get some silver solder if I need it. For now, I live with it. I have an unrelated problem, and I wonder if I should open a separate ticket for that, or if it's better to keep it in the same ticket? Here's the thing: The screws for the heated bed are sticking up, lifting the glass plate away from the heat plate, and probably also warping it ever so slightly. I have to run the bed at 80 degrees for PLA to stick, which is insanely hot for PLA as far as I understand. I doubt that I can get anything bigger than 10 x 10 cm to stick, the way things are now. There's always a corner lifting, but if I try to reduce the distance to the nozzle by just a tiny amount, I obstruct it. The PLA just refuses to stick to the glass, especially if I run at anything less than 70-75 degrees.
  12. I did not fix it per se. I removed the thermocouple, and measured 111 Ohms. Then I put it back in, and measured 550 kOhms. Took it out, 111 Ohms. Turned it upside down, and put it in, and then it worked, sort of. I get maxtemp errors during preheat and cooldown, but as long as I am able to successfully preheat the nozzle, I am able to run prints. I will probably need a new thermocouple, though. I don't want to take this one apart unless it fails completely.
  13. Yee haw! I am 3D printing! I'm probably going to have to replace the thermocouple sooner or later, but right now, magic is happening on my desktop.
  14. Hi. I have assembled my first 3D printer, the UM Original PLUS. I almost got it working right, but then it started reading erratic temperatures from the print head. Then the board seems to have gotten stuck on the MAXTEMP error. Disconnecting everything did not help. It shows 100/0 degrees for the nozzle, regardless of whether I have the sensor plugged into the board or not. I have even tried unplugging everything except the Ulitcontroller, no difference. Then I tried plugging in the USB and disconnecting the Ulticontroller, still no difference. I suspect this is a firmware issue, at least I hope it's not hardware. It does not seem to be a problem with the sensor, because the error message is exactly the same whether the sensor is connected to the board or not. I have read something about a firmware bug in the UM2 triggering the MAXTEMP error, and as far as I understand the UMO+ uses the same board, so maybe this is related? Perhaps I can install an older version of the firmware, or make some modification to the existing firmware (MarlinUltimaker-UMOP-250000.hex)? If anyone could point me in the right direction, I'd be thankful. Update: I just measured the resistance of the thermocouple, and it's open (infinite). I guess that's what 100 degrees mean, then. So it's not a firmware issue after all. Oh well. I guess I'll have to get a new thermocouple, unless it is fixable. I'll have a closer look on it. Hopefully the break is somewhere that can be soldered. Is the normal resistance 100 Ohm at 20 degrees?
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