ex-parrot
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Posts posted by ex-parrot
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If the white indicator on the feeder is on top change it to a middle position.
Remove the filament and check the Bowden tube for a very fine strand (hardly visible). If there is one, remove it.
Seems my SD card was bad (bizarre, I know)! I swapped out the card and I have no problem getting up to '8' before the E skips. If I up the current to 1500 mA I can get right up to 10 no trouble.
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Hi all,
Brand new UM2 fails at the first band with lots of extruder clicking: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjsRYRkHB1I
Any suggestions?
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Try setting the tension of the feeder so that the indicator is in the middle. This is the recommended position for UM2s since March this year. IIRC indicator on top means maximum tension (I replaced the feeder with Robert's design on my UM2).
Thanks for the suggestion, unfortunately setting the tensioner to the "middle" position does not make any difference, the extruder still skips constantly even while printing the slowest portion of the underextrusion test piece (and very quickly begins to slip if I manually extrude 1mm at a time in OctoPrint).
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The printer is supposed to be new, right? Otherwise a look at the PTFE piece might reveal the problem...
It's brand new, I unpacked it myself earlier in the week
btw: what's the setting of the white pressure indicator on the feeder?I tried loosening it right off (right up to the top) as well as with a tiny bit of tension. It seems to need almost no tension to properly bite and feed (at least when the hot-end is disconnected so it can feed in to the bowden...)
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I would heat up the nozzle and push the filament through manually. Like this you may find the spot where the resistance begins. This will give you an idea what might be wrong.
Have done this, the whole bowden portion seems very smooth. The hot end doesn't seem especially difficult to push PLA through either, comparable to my Prusa i3 w/ j-head.
Which E current values did you try?1250 (default), 1300, 1500, 1750. None seem to make a difference.
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Hi all,
I purchased an Ultimaker 2 from MindKits here in New Zealand last week, and finally had time to set it up today. While I wait for MindKits to get back to me I thought I'd ask this question to the forum:
Try as I might I cannot seem to stop the E motor from "clicking" and slipping backwards while driving the filament in to the bowden tube.
Things I've tried:
- Plugged the printer in to a PC and let Cura upgrade the firmware to the
latest version.
- Unclipped the bowden tube at both ends, pulled out the filament and installed
fresh filament, and checked the bowden was aligned properly.
- Checked that the filament comes off the spool without friction.
- Did the usual reprap unclogging manoeuvre (heat up, cool down, pull out
filament at about the glass transition temp) and got a nice smooth clean plug,
which suggests no blockages.
- Turned the E current up to various different values.
- Factory reset the printer from the internal menu.
- Reduced the clamping pressure on the extruder motor.
- Increased the printing temp.
I tried printing the "underextrusion test" but the motor begins to skip while printing the priming skirt around the object, and attempting to print an Ultimaker robot scaled up 2.5 times on Cura's "fast, low quality" has the E motor clicking and slipping on the first layer.
If I use the "move material" jog wheel option in the built in menu, every jog of the wheel leads to a slip.
Any suggestions? Is something faulty with the unit?
Thanks,
-Michael
Safety of running E at 1500mA on UM2?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Hi all,
I have finally sorted my UM2 extrusion problem, and found that running the E motor at 1500mA allows me to print extremely quickly, which is nice!
However I suspect the UI limits the adjustment to 1300mA for a reason.
How likely to damage the controller / stepper is a 1500mA current?