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  1. I'd try replacing bowden tube. I can now print at 15mm^3/s with this.
  2. I was getting massive underextrusions from a bowden tube purchased from gr5 store. And I found this: Fluorotherm F015092 - 5 Fractional PTFE Tubing, 1/8" ID x 1/4" OD, 5' Length, Semi-Transparent It's long enough to make two and works like a charm. The OD fits the white clips perfectly, and I am able to use 3mm (as opposed to 2.85mm) filaments as well. The only downside is that it's much less transparent, making light-colored filaments hard to see through.
  3. @gr5 You were right on - everything is in perfect working order! Thank you always gr5 for your quick responses.
  4. I've been looking for cheaper filaments for my UM2. Being used to top-of-the-line stuff like Ultimaker, Faberdashery and Colorfabb, it was difficult to find any decent replacement. eSun was especially a huge nightmare, despite its low cost. I tested out Atomic Filament recently, and it's been giving me decent prints. It's $29.99 for 1KG spool with free shipping. Definitely worth a shot. http://atomicfilament.com
  5. @gr5 Just got an email from US Support- They are sending me a new Z-motor and trap nut! I will let you know how it goes
  6. @cloakfiend The extreme lighting and the glossy nature of that PLA is making it look melty. It's not melty at all actually. In fact, the strata is quite sharp. I am sure the temperature is not an issue. I am very familiar with the consistency vs temperature since I've been printing daily for about a year. The temps are correct for sure. I do like your idea of swapping out PTFE and the Olsson block. I will give that a shot some time. @gr5 I've been contacting the US support, but it has not been terribly productive so far. I have even taken the entire Z assembly (brass nut, screw and motor)
  7. @gr5 @cloakfiend I made a 3D model for the test. It's 10 x 10 x 10 mm box with 5mm tall extruded curve sitting gently on top. * My nozzle is thoroughly cleaned out, and can achieve 10 mm^3/s * All filaments I own gives same result. Here are the parameters: Here are the results Larger layer height seems to make problem worse: Z current doesn't seem to have any effect: (It sounds a little quieter. I like that.) Lowering temp down to 205 did not change anything:
  8. Thank you guys for helping out! - Here is my .ini file - My layer height was 0.1mm for the "horizontal banding test towers" and 0.2mm for the rest. - I've tested with temperatures ranging from 200 to 250, with Ultimaker PLA, Colorfabb PLA/PHA and Faberdashery PLA. All combination leads to the same result. @neotko I even took out the brass nut and the threaded rod assembly and cleaned and re-greased it thoroughly. All three Z thumb screws are on tighter side to reduce vibration. I don't think it's bed leveling issue either. @gr5 I am using the Olsson block that I got from gr5 store. I was
  9. I am having the exact same problem! I can rule out temperature/speed, filament, slicing or firmware issue. I highly suspect that the problem resides within the Z axis (Z threaded rod, Z motor or Z driver). - It happened randomly. I was printing fine, then my UM2 started to print like this. - I removed the threaded rod from the machine, cleaned with WD-40 and re-greased with supplied grease. The two sliding pillars are oiled properly. - There is no resistance or bump when I manually move the bed up and down. - All belts are nicely tensioned. - Printer works perfectly except for the Z band
  10. UPS left notification and left (signature required) since no one was home. So I ran to the UPS truck from school and got my package straight from the truck. Unpacked, loaded PLA, and and sent a 30 hour print.
  11. Great! Tracking says the item is picked up (TN) and it will be here (NY) in 2 business days (UPS Ground).
  12. I placed a US order for UM2 on Sep 26, but the order status is still "Ready". I paid in full at the time of purchase. What's stopping from the US vender to ship the item quickly? Are they assembling as they go?
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