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steve-green

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  1. An update on the helmet/armour we were prototyping for our short film. Armour (except shoulder pads) were 3D printed, helmet was printed in pieces then a mold made, and cast in PU. Still needs a bit of finessing - you can see the facets on parts of the belt for example.
  2. Yeah, Dan's at the pointy end regarding prints, so I've not had the direct frustration of prints going wrong. I always find it hard to tell how good a Colorfabb XT print is, the frosting/translucency makes it harder to judge than standard PLA...
  3. Thanks, it's been great to dip my toe in this sort of thing. My background is CGI, and it's lovely to see a physical prop at the end of it. I know Dan has had a couple of problems with underextrusion - it seemed to happen more with the preset values than going in and tweaking settings. Best of luck!
  4. Hi, Here's what Daniel (who printed them and cleaned them up, and made the CG model of the gun e-mailed me) "Basically the parts were assembled using Liquid Solvent cement ( Dichloromethane) which melts the parts together, although I did notice the PLA took a while to really harden back up. Any joins and gaps etc were then filled with two part car body filler. Everything was then sanded with 100 grit sandpaper. I did use soapy water to speed things up but it took a while for the prints to dry out so its not a time saver but just makes the sanding easier. Everything was then given a pretty
  5. Thanks! - it was all PLA, mostly the standard blue PLA that it shipped with from dream3d. Dan printed them out, I believe he reprinted the centre of the gun with silver PLA though - but since it would be painted it didn't matter. http://www.dream3d.co.uk/pla-filaments-ultimaker/ Pretty sure it was just sanding and then sprayed with primer, I'd have to ask Dan for the details of what he used... The gun still needs a bit of cleanup in the grooves/shut lines at the front.
  6. We're clubbed together on an UM2 to produce props for a short fan film we are making. It's based on a 2000AD comic strip called Strontium Dog, and we took them along to Thought Bubble comic convention at the weekend. Here are a couple of pics with artist Jock (who was a concept artist on the Dredd movie) and Boo Cook who draws for 2000AD as well. The gun was printed in about 3 pieces, the helmet... probably about 10. Dan at Planet Replicas made the model of the blaster in Rhino, and I made the helmet in 3DS Max. Dan then judged scales and printed them out, assembled them and cleaned them
  7. Cool, thanks Didier - some good tips there. Cheers Steve
  8. Yeah, the guy putting it together is a prop maker, so I don't think seams are a problem. I think it's more a case of it being easier to fit together/slightly stronger if the seams flow along the curve rather than just vertical and horizontal, in addition to any keys. I'm pretty sure it's going to have a mold anyway afterwards. Just interested in how people are approaching larger than build volume prints - seems like the sort of thing that would be useful to have in Cura.
  9. Hi, I'm currently building a helmet model to be printed out by a friend with an Ultimaker 2 (we went halves on it) It's an organic shape, so there aren't any really obvious joins where it could be separated, and it's much larger than the build volume. I've seen a few articles about chopping things up, Makerbot applying for a patent, plugins for Autocad/Inventor. I just wondered what the options are for prepping the model so that it can be printed in pieces and glued together. It's being built in 3DS Max as a poly model, then subdivided - it's easy to chop into cubes but I wondered if ther
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