
steve-green
Dormant-
Content Count
9 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Community Reputation
0 Neutral-
An update on the helmet/armour we were prototyping for our short film. Armour (except shoulder pads) were 3D printed, helmet was printed in pieces then a mold made, and cast in PU. Still needs a bit of finessing - you can see the facets on parts of the belt for example.
-
Yeah, Dan's at the pointy end regarding prints, so I've not had the direct frustration of prints going wrong. I always find it hard to tell how good a Colorfabb XT print is, the frosting/translucency makes it harder to judge than standard PLA...
-
Thanks, it's been great to dip my toe in this sort of thing. My background is CGI, and it's lovely to see a physical prop at the end of it. I know Dan has had a couple of problems with underextrusion - it seemed to happen more with the preset values than going in and tweaking settings. Best of luck!
-
Hi, Here's what Daniel (who printed them and cleaned them up, and made the CG model of the gun e-mailed me) "Basically the parts were assembled using Liquid Solvent cement ( Dichloromethane) which melts the parts together, although I did notice the PLA took a while to really harden back up. Any joins and gaps etc were then filled with two part car body filler. Everything was then sanded with 100 grit sandpaper. I did use soapy water to speed things up but it took a while for the prints to dry out so its not a time saver but just makes the sanding easier. Everything was then given a pretty
-
Thanks! - it was all PLA, mostly the standard blue PLA that it shipped with from dream3d. Dan printed them out, I believe he reprinted the centre of the gun with silver PLA though - but since it would be painted it didn't matter. http://www.dream3d.co.uk/pla-filaments-ultimaker/ Pretty sure it was just sanding and then sprayed with primer, I'd have to ask Dan for the details of what he used... The gun still needs a bit of cleanup in the grooves/shut lines at the front.
-
We're clubbed together on an UM2 to produce props for a short fan film we are making. It's based on a 2000AD comic strip called Strontium Dog, and we took them along to Thought Bubble comic convention at the weekend. Here are a couple of pics with artist Jock (who was a concept artist on the Dredd movie) and Boo Cook who draws for 2000AD as well. The gun was printed in about 3 pieces, the helmet... probably about 10. Dan at Planet Replicas made the model of the blaster in Rhino, and I made the helmet in 3DS Max. Dan then judged scales and printed them out, assembled them and cleaned them
-
Options for printing larger than build volume
steve-green replied to steve-green's topic in Ultimaker 3D printers
Cool, thanks Didier - some good tips there. Cheers Steve -
Options for printing larger than build volume
steve-green replied to steve-green's topic in Ultimaker 3D printers
Yeah, the guy putting it together is a prop maker, so I don't think seams are a problem. I think it's more a case of it being easier to fit together/slightly stronger if the seams flow along the curve rather than just vertical and horizontal, in addition to any keys. I'm pretty sure it's going to have a mold anyway afterwards. Just interested in how people are approaching larger than build volume prints - seems like the sort of thing that would be useful to have in Cura. -
Hi, I'm currently building a helmet model to be printed out by a friend with an Ultimaker 2 (we went halves on it) It's an organic shape, so there aren't any really obvious joins where it could be separated, and it's much larger than the build volume. I've seen a few articles about chopping things up, Makerbot applying for a patent, plugins for Autocad/Inventor. I just wondered what the options are for prepping the model so that it can be printed in pieces and glued together. It's being built in 3DS Max as a poly model, then subdivided - it's easy to chop into cubes but I wondered if ther