tinydancer

How many hours of printing does it have on it?

Appreciate it!

Thanks Yellowshark, I've never encountered this and haven't had experience with items this small with such thin walls. I've passed along this info. to the customer. Cheers!

I have this STL file from a customer that shows up correctly in Normal view, but it doesn't show most of it in layer mode and thus it doesn't print out correctly. Here's the STL file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8-rHbyHteY8bWl4blhzYnNqVE0/view?usp=sharing Any help would be appreciated.

That's great! What did you decide to teach them over the 2 days?

I've been venturing into longer prints (20-30 hours+) and have noticed the time it shows to complete it in Cura is usually an over estimation. While that is nice when it doesn't take as long, I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this? My most recent one happened with this Heatwave vase design that you get off thingiverse. The time Cura estimated was just under 48 hours, and it actually completed in 29 hours. That's a pretty big margin to be off by.

It's been awhile since I was here, busy with life and such. There's a maker faire coming up in November in Ottawa and I was wondering if Ultimaker is interested in getting representation at something like that? My printer has been running like a champ and I was wondering if attending and getting some exposure to Ultimaker is something they're interested in? Just a thought I was mulling around. Hope you all have had a great summer!

Just curious, do you what the actual build volume is that the UM2 can achieve? I'd like to have that information, save me the trouble of running a bunch of tests.

Try using Brasso as another member suggested in a previous thread. @Cloakfiend - Have you tried the Atomic method for clearing your nozzle? http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the

Congrats to all the winners! You're some really talented folk.

Drill out a new kit? Why would you pay for that?

Where do you switch that? Curious as the noise isn't really loud but I'm interested in anything that can reduce it.

This is such a great thread, thanks to all who contributed to the testing!

I've been printing this week with the clear XT, and no matter what temp I use it still comes out as a translucent white. It does adhere a little too well, and I let it completely cool to room temperature before I start to take it off. If it's at all stubborn, I pop it into the fridge for 15 minutes and then it comes off quite easily. Not sure what advice I can give you foehnsturm as the clear prints really well for me if I use a bed temp from 80-83 depending on where I'm printing on the bed. I found I would get some slight warping if I printed away from the middle, but increasing it a few degrees seemed to do the trick. The best results I had as far as layer adhesion is at 255-260, but my UM2 is all stock.

From someone that had to do this a little while back, your comment about a parent operating on their own child is spot on. I was so sure i was going to break my UM2, but it was actually quite easy.

Definitely an extra PTFE coupler and a spare nozzle as well. If you have the extra cash I would just get the hot end pack.

I would stick with what is displayed in that thread I linked.. And we would have to see pics of the coupler to tell you if it's salvageable. Given the amount of hours you have on it, that's highly unlikely.

Well it should work from that file, but we can check the settings to make sure nothing got screwed up. Open Cura, choose File>Load profile from gcode and select the file on the sd card, and it will load the settings. You can always reset the profile back to the default afterwards. It would be good to know what temperature it printed at, likely 210 as that is the default setting when you load in PLA. Did you use the default PLA choice when you first loaded your PLA material?

What Don said. And if you watch it when it feeds into the extrduder, you can see it pass through the part of bowden tube above the white teflon coupler that has the spring around it. If you see the material pass that part, then it should feed correctly into the hotend. Cutting the point definitely helps.

When troubleshooting any issue, it's good to know your layer height, shell thickness, bottom/top thickness, print speed, infil % and the temperature you're printing at. Unless you've changed the material flow rates previously, the defaults should be fine. Give us the above information and we'll go from there.

Yes, I would bet money your teflon coupler is toast so just replace it.

You should include 2.85 diameter filament in your survey since that's what the Ultimaker 2 uses. Good luck!

As far as cleaning the PLA off the nozzle, you can just wipe it with a paper towel when the nozzle is heated up. You can heat up the nozzle manually on the printer itself by going to Maintenance>Advanced>Heatup Nozzle. I usually heat mine to 200-210 and it will easily wipe off.

Weird, the glue worked for me. And I used a bed temp of 80.

It's actually quite easy. I was intimidated the first time I replaced mine, but it's really a breeze.