tinydancer
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Posts posted by tinydancer
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Appreciate it!
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Thanks Yellowshark, I've never encountered this and haven't had experience with items this small with such thin walls. I've passed along this info. to the customer.
Cheers!
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I have this STL file from a customer that shows up correctly in Normal view, but it doesn't show most of it in layer mode and thus it doesn't print out correctly.
Here's the STL file:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8-rHbyHteY8bWl4blhzYnNqVE0/view?usp=sharing
Any help would be appreciated.
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That's great! What did you decide to teach them over the 2 days?
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I've been venturing into longer prints (20-30 hours+) and have noticed the time it shows to complete it in Cura is usually an over estimation. While that is nice when it doesn't take as long, I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed this?
My most recent one happened with this Heatwave vase design that you get off thingiverse. The time Cura estimated was just under 48 hours, and it actually completed in 29 hours. That's a pretty big margin to be off by.
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It's been awhile since I was here, busy with life and such. There's a maker faire coming up in November in Ottawa and I was wondering if Ultimaker is interested in getting representation at something like that? My printer has been running like a champ and I was wondering if attending and getting some exposure to Ultimaker is something they're interested in? Just a thought I was mulling around.
Hope you all have had a great summer!
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Jonny's got it it right. If the second nozzle were functional, you would still not be able to print at the extreme right using the left nozzle, because of the spacing between the two nozzles.
Bottom line is that the UM2 cannot meet its build-volume specs, as I pointed out here in another thread a year ago.
Just curious, do you what the actual build volume is that the UM2 can achieve? I'd like to have that information, save me the trouble of running a bunch of tests.
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Try using Brasso as another member suggested in a previous thread.
@Cloakfiend - Have you tried the Atomic method for clearing your nozzle?
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/10-the
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Congrats to all the winners! You're some really talented folk.
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Drill out a new kit? Why would you pay for that?
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@gr5: Have you switched to 1/16 z-step yet on the UM2? It makes a big difference!
Where do you switch that? Curious as the noise isn't really loud but I'm interested in anything that can reduce it.
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This is such a great thread, thanks to all who contributed to the testing!
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I've been printing this week with the clear XT, and no matter what temp I use it still comes out as a translucent white. It does adhere a little too well, and I let it completely cool to room temperature before I start to take it off. If it's at all stubborn, I pop it into the fridge for 15 minutes and then it comes off quite easily.
Not sure what advice I can give you foehnsturm as the clear prints really well for me if I use a bed temp from 80-83 depending on where I'm printing on the bed. I found I would get some slight warping if I printed away from the middle, but increasing it a few degrees seemed to do the trick. The best results I had as far as layer adhesion is at 255-260, but my UM2 is all stock.
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Definitely an extra PTFE coupler and a spare nozzle as well. If you have the extra cash I would just get the hot end pack.
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Heads up on the sensor removal.
Had the same problem when I changed my custom block.
I don't think that any kind of penetrative lubricant will work as the small threaded rod that holds in the sensor and heater damages the sensor casing. The tread bites into it locking it in. If you haven't already pulled the wire out of the casing as I did there are two options.
1. If there is any of the casing sticking out the back of the block grip it with some pliers and twist it out.
2. I've read some place that you can drill a small hole in the front of the block and push it out.
As for replacement of the sensor it's not as difficult as it looks.
Edit** Turn off the machine at the mains first. You don't want to die before you try out your new block now do you
1. Cut the sensor off at the block.
2. Turn up machine on its side to access the bottom.
3. Remove the board cover.
4. Remove the screws mounting the board.
5. Unplug old sensor and pull it through the mesh tube.
6. Pull back the cable shrink from both ends of the mesh tube.
7. Feed the new sensor into the mesh from the board end. This bit is a fiddle but so long as you hold the mesh as the end and work it through you'll have no problem. Looks much neater also.
8. Plug in the connector.
9. To replace the cable shrink at both ends of the mesh tube, pinch and wrap the mesh around the cables and twist the shrink up on to the mesh.
10. Put it all back together and feel proud!
11. REMEMBER TO LEVEL THE BED AND CHANGE NOZZLES AT PRINTING TEMP!
!!WARNING!! During this process you will feel like a parent operating on there own child, so you might need someone to wipe you brow now and then.
From someone that had to do this a little while back, your comment about a parent operating on their own child is spot on. I was so sure i was going to break my UM2, but it was actually quite easy.
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I would stick with what is displayed in that thread I linked.. And we would have to see pics of the coupler to tell you if it's salvageable. Given the amount of hours you have on it, that's highly unlikely.
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Well it should work from that file, but we can check the settings to make sure nothing got screwed up. Open Cura, choose File>Load profile from gcode and select the file on the sd card, and it will load the settings. You can always reset the profile back to the default afterwards.
It would be good to know what temperature it printed at, likely 210 as that is the default setting when you load in PLA. Did you use the default PLA choice when you first loaded your PLA material?
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What Don said. And if you watch it when it feeds into the extrduder, you can see it pass through the part of bowden tube above the white teflon coupler that has the spring around it. If you see the material pass that part, then it should feed correctly into the hotend. Cutting the point definitely helps.
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When troubleshooting any issue, it's good to know your layer height, shell thickness, bottom/top thickness, print speed, infil % and the temperature you're printing at. Unless you've changed the material flow rates previously, the defaults should be fine. Give us the above information and we'll go from there.
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Yes, I would bet money your teflon coupler is toast so just replace it.
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You should include 2.85 diameter filament in your survey since that's what the Ultimaker 2 uses. Good luck!
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As far as cleaning the PLA off the nozzle, you can just wipe it with a paper towel when the nozzle is heated up. You can heat up the nozzle manually on the printer itself by going to Maintenance>Advanced>Heatup Nozzle. I usually heat mine to 200-210 and it will easily wipe off.
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Weird, the glue worked for me. And I used a bed temp of 80.
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That looks like a pain to replace, but I'm game. Are they available in the store? (I'll just go look, actually.) Any tips to make it easier to swap out?
It's actually quite easy. I was intimidated the first time I replaced mine, but it's really a breeze.
Selling my Ultimaker 2+ Extended
in Buying or selling your UltiMaker
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How many hours of printing does it have on it?