tinydancer

Another great guide. Bookmarked!

Way too expensive to buy from Canada.

This. I've literally arrived at this after multiple prints in layers below 100 microns on one recent print (the "linkage" on the Oblivion Defender Drone) to only find out that 100+ microns worked the best. I chock it up to the "art of printing" lol.

I'm glad you posted this. I've honestly been shaking my head on how Ultimaker doesn't easily host images. Unfortunately I've used imgur a bunch already, but I'll use this method in the future.

I think this is what you're looking for. Check post #20 for the correct nozzle assembly. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/8513-underextrusion-need-help-with-this-one/&do=findComment&comment=80503

Personally I wouldn't buy anything other than ColorFabb for PLA.

Is the Taulman Bridge the same as the 645?

The problem with using food safe materials is that unless the surface is absolutely smooth, any gaps in the layering can physically harbor bacteria. That being said, ColorFabb's XT-COPOLYESTER seems to be food safe. http://colorfabb.com/xt-copolyester

I just measured my UM2 and it comes out at 49.5mm.

That's genius!

Check this printer out. Carbon Fiber and Kevlar filament and a supposed 10 micron accuracy. https://markforged.com/

Interesting, I will give that a try.

I'm from Ottawa and got my UM2 from Dynamism in October of last year. The experience was superb and I highly recommend them if you're in North America.

What is the advantage of these shrouds?

If you're still considering a UM2 Orion, contact Dynamism. They usually get stock in every week and I literally had my UM2 delivered to me in Canada 3 days after the order went through.

Absolutely agree with all that.

I can only guess that adding oil into the equation will cause all kinds of issues with the filament. There should be no reason to oil filament if you're using a good manufacturer.

I'm just telling you what works if a print won't come off the plate. You mentioned ruining your parts when my suggestion will prevent that.

Let your bed cool to room temperature, then take it out and put it in the fridge for 20 minutes. The part will come off easily after that as the glass and plastic cool at different rates.

I would start by lowering the temperature. Start with 200, then 195, then 190.

Man I love the sound of bagpipes. I'm surprised you could print them and have them sound so good. Kudos!

@BaasB - Really nice work! Love the airbrushing. What kind of airbrush system do you have? I've been tossing around the idea of getting one since I saw Valcrow's awesome video on the lightsaber and am wondering what brand you have. @Skint - That turned out great, while I'm curious to see what it would look like polished, the colour right now lends itself very well to the skull. Nice job! In regards to the coiled filament, wrap it tightly around another roll with at least half the filament left on it and let it sit for at least 3 days. That did the trick with a roll I recently had the exact same problem with and I was able to print right to the end of it. And I only have the stock feeder.

I think you would have to contact them directly to do that.

I remember when I first researched the 5th Gen Makerbot and it's "Smart" extruder. Oh the horror stories!

Something that represents Israel that he might not be able to get in Ireland. I gave maple syrup to some colleagues visiting from the Phillipines, it was a pretty big hit. I also introduced them to Poutine.