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chrisw

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Posts posted by chrisw

  1. First thing I would do is insert a.8 mm nozzle and change layer height to .35 mm.

    That will improve both print speed and IMO your chances of success greatly. Also fewer layers can strengthen the part in many cases.

    There may be more post processing required if you want a smooth exterior, but we're talking maybe an hour extra, whereas you'd be saving days worth of print time.

    After I started buying 1kg spools I never went back to anything smaller because I got tired of collecting spool cores with unused ends. 1kg+ spools should help you complete large builds with minimal filament changes required.

    Good luck on your speaker housings!

  2. I wouldn't mind making the printable parts myself, but the hardware (screws, nuts, bolts, square rod, bearings, etc) are the types of things that I expect could be difficult to get just the right items. If those metal pieces all came in a bag I'd buy a couple of those bags. There are enough variations in metal parts that I'd rather get ones that you know fit your design well.

    • Like 1
  3. I'm definitely interested in this setup, mainly for eliminating the in-tube binding that occurs when my UM2s are printing near the back wall. The sharp bend of the Bowden tube seems to cause too much friction. I still get functional prints, but there's uneven extrusion on the back wall area.

    Until recently this never mattered to me because all my parts were relatively small and I could keep them more toward the front. But then I bought a couple Matchless kits and realized I could print much bigger things in reasonable time when using a 1.5 nozzle. Now my prints occupy near the max build space sometimes.

    The ZGE setup looks like it could provide a more even flow. The only reason I'm not jumping into printing the ZGE parts is the size of that conversion project. It's a lot of parts and I don't have time to track down & order the hardware right now. If you ever put together a parts kit, I'll buy a couple

  4. Thank you for your response.  In objects printed with flat bottom what did you find useful and securing it down?  I currently use kapton tape.

     

    I'd slow the print speed. If you notice with PETG , it likes to go up toward the hot nozzle and stick to the nozzle whenever possible. It'll defy gravity to move toward that heat. In this way PETG's warping differs from ABS I think. ABS is shrinking as it cools. I'm sure PETG does this slightly as well, but more of the peeling up is caused by that soft plastic wanting to follow the hot nozzle IMO. Even on medium-sized prints when using this material, the plastic will be soft a few layers deep because it maintains heat for a long time after extrusion. I think slowing the print helps the plastic stay stuck to the glass.

    Like @gr5 , I don't use Kapton. I use a heated glass bed with hair spray for PETG. For PLA I use glue stick, but for PET the extreme-hold spray works better for me, with less cleanup required

  5.  hairspray is best for a noob but you have to remove the glass every time or you get glue all over your machine's working parts.

     

    Yes definitely remove the glass to apply the spray. I only need to reapply the spray once every 25 prints or so, though. You can see marks where previous prints have been, but there's still a layer of spray on the glass and it keeps on working

  6. For PETG you need to dial in your nozzle temp to a small window of about +- 5c. I use eSun brand mostly and it seems to like 238 - 243 best. The temp can stray up and down outside of that range, but you can see differences in the print as a result. Example: temp way too low = very slow extrusion. temp a little low: lines printed next to each other stay separate instead of merging into 1. temp a little too high = lots of stringing. Temp way too high = inconsistent extrusion diameter of lines being printed.

    I like to make the temp such that minor occasional stringing occurs across open spaces. It seems like then I get very strong parts with good layer bonding.

    Ideal bed temp for my projects have been 75C. I use a coat of hair spray (applied when bed is cold), and it keeps the print fixed in place until the bed cools down. I haven't experienced warping unless there's a large flat bottom layer. But I do have the machine's front and top covered.

    Good luck!

    • Like 1
  7. The frame is only made of flat panels. It can be perfectly square but the rods/pulleys/belts/bearings can be misadjusted or damaged and can cause problems like you're describing. I wouldn't apply force trying to straighten anything out, because usually you only need tools to make adjustments to these machines.

    And like @xeno suggested, post some pics of print failures!

  8. @Cloakfiend The block has remnants of leaked PETG from the time before I replaced the spring. Most of the leaked material has already been removed actually :p

    @SandervG I took off the fans to install the spring replacement spacer last week, and I just left them off with intentions of disassembling the block and cleaning it one of these days.

    Glue doesn't work all that well on PET for me, unless using paint stripper or PVC glue to dissolve/bond, and that stuff is pretty nasty. So I figured why not just print both pieces into one. How would you use a heating tool to fuse them together without damaging the parts? Maybe it's a technique I need to learn.

  9. [print=3347][/print]

    My friend's old boat needed some replacement logos.  One was broken, the other badly worn.  "Sure, I can do that!" I said.   Then I measured and realized it was too long for my UM2's bed.  Oops.  So I needed a way to make this work.  In OnShape I made a 2-part model that could be fused into one.    

    The first part was printed, then removed from the bed:

    20160321_210930_resized.thumb.jpg.c4116e2595e51a7575e938bb04c6a60f.jpg

    Now Part 2 began printing.  After 1 mm PauseatZ kicked in to let me add Part 1

    curasearay.thumb.jpg.edd48a56eaec09ad3eb692b3fec8645e.jpg

    I used a small clamp to hold Part 1 pressed against Part 2 while the nozzle fused them together

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    A little flame polish added slightly more gloss after the print completed

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    20160321_210930_resized.thumb.jpg.c4116e2595e51a7575e938bb04c6a60f.jpg

    curasearay.thumb.jpg.edd48a56eaec09ad3eb692b3fec8645e.jpg

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    • Like 7
  10. @SandervG   Thanks!   The still image makes it difficult to see the origin of these fireworks, but even crazier than jumping during a pyro show, our parachutists are launching them from the formation.    

    A video is the best way to show what's happening. The last person you see jumping out is wearing pyro brackets on both legs.   Fireworks ignite at about 1:10 into the clip:

     

    I work with a team called Canopy Formation Specialitsts.    We train jumpers to do demonstration jumps around the world.

    One year ago I bought my first printer (UM2) with the sole intention of using it to make test models for some prototype parts.  The end goal was injection molding.  At the time I didn't realize that fully functional, durable parts could really be manufactured at home.

    • Like 10
  11. In previous years our parachute team would use tape for fastening lights to our helmets.  The tape job needed to be redone each time we had a night jump.   It was a time consuming job and it was messy.

    This year I had the tools necessary to make snag-proof light mounts that could be quickly installed or removed.   My two UM2's worked hard for a few days straight to make 32 of these mounts.   Modelling was done in OnShape, PETG material from Intservo was used, with a .6 nozzle installed on an Olsson Block, and of course the |Robert| feeder was installed on both machines

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    q03.thumb.jpg.c9868eb3b31b7e25d71d1740b9ca41cd.jpg

    • Like 4
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