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Posts posted by chrisw

  1. First thing I would do is insert a.8 mm nozzle and change layer height to .35 mm.

    That will improve both print speed and IMO your chances of success greatly. Also fewer layers can strengthen the part in many cases.

    There may be more post processing required if you want a smooth exterior, but we're talking maybe an hour extra, whereas you'd be saving days worth of print time.

    After I started buying 1kg spools I never went back to anything smaller because I got tired of collecting spool cores with unused ends. 1kg+ spools should help you complete large builds with minimal filament changes required.

    Good luck on your speaker housings!

  2. Retractions and PETG just don't work well together. I've tried all sorts of settings in S3D to make up for dripped material by overpriming after retractions, but it never gives good results for me. My solutions have been to create models that need very few retractions, or to set retractions only for 10 mm+ distances, and to increase travel speeds. Or change to a different material

  3. I would use a caliper to check the filament size.  If it's too fat for your bowden tube then it can cause the skipping.

    Also petg shouldn't require drying.  Usually the bubbling and maybe dripping happens when the hot end is too hot.   I haven't tried this Hatchbox brand, but usually the petg brands that I've tried run best in the 238 - 245C range.

  4. I wouldn't mind making the printable parts myself, but the hardware (screws, nuts, bolts, square rod, bearings, etc) are the types of things that I expect could be difficult to get just the right items. If those metal pieces all came in a bag I'd buy a couple of those bags. There are enough variations in metal parts that I'd rather get ones that you know fit your design well.

    • Like 1
  5. I'm definitely interested in this setup, mainly for eliminating the in-tube binding that occurs when my UM2s are printing near the back wall. The sharp bend of the Bowden tube seems to cause too much friction. I still get functional prints, but there's uneven extrusion on the back wall area.

    Until recently this never mattered to me because all my parts were relatively small and I could keep them more toward the front. But then I bought a couple Matchless kits and realized I could print much bigger things in reasonable time when using a 1.5 nozzle. Now my prints occupy near the max build space sometimes.

    The ZGE setup looks like it could provide a more even flow. The only reason I'm not jumping into printing the ZGE parts is the size of that conversion project. It's a lot of parts and I don't have time to track down & order the hardware right now. If you ever put together a parts kit, I'll buy a couple

  6. Yes.  But the procedure is COMPLETELY different in cura 2.X versus 15.X.  In 15.x you need a plugin called something like "switch at Z".  Something like that.  You slice it both ways (.1, .2) and save to two files then use switch at Z to switch to the other file.

    In cura 2.X you split your cad model into 3 cylinders, load all 3 stl files into cura and merge them (right click after slelecting all) then on left side you can change settings - oh!  except not layer height.  So, um, for this particular feature you need cura 15.X.

    Right up until the last couple of sentences, I was almost ready to try Cura again. I was hoping :)

    You can sort-of do this in S3D, but there's an annoying trait. Each time a new Process (different layer height) begins, S3D treats it as a new print. So if the bottom solid layers are set to 4, you get 4 solid layers, even though you're really in the middle of a print and don't need those.

    You can fudge around that by setting the middle Process to have 0 top & bottom solid layers, but then your print is screwed if there are any upper surfaces in that range because it'll be open-topped, showing the infill.

    This is where I hope @GR5 or @Neotko will jump in and tell me a trick for S3D to do what I've been unable to do thus far. :)

  7. You're probably dealing with material being heated to the point of flowing for too long. The PC gets to the nozzle and sits there melted for a while waiting to get pushed through the tiny hole. This could be a good reason for changing to 1.75 mm filament, but of course hardware changes are necessary for that and it would not be a guaranteed fix. Would it be worth the time and dollars required to tinker for a possible improvement of print quality

  8. Heated bed update:

    My blobby soldered joint finally busted after about 20 prints. So I installed one of the $39 heated beds with the fake Ultimaker logo printed on it. It works, but it takes literally twice as long to heat up as a stock UM2 bed: 5 minutes to go from 22C to 76C on my stock UM2 bed, and 10 minutes on the 3rd party bed.

    FBRC8 sent me an email saying they now have the OEM beds in stock, so I think I'll just bite the bullet and get the real thing

  9. The best PC results I had involved using an enclosed UM2 and a thin film of superglue on the cold glass build plate, then heated the bed to desired temp after the glue dried. Lots of scraping with a razor blade was required to get all the glue off the plate after, but the parts stayed very flat on the plate during the build. Beware of glue fumes because they are potent.

    Or go back to more friendly filaments til better ones are developed (that's what I decided)

  10. I printed a similar model from the same site, and it required some playing with settings and trying a few different filaments to get good results.

    Some filaments are more tolerant of retractions than others. These models can have retractions every 2 or 3 second continuously for minutes. It's a real world extruder torture test. Esun's PLA+ was the filament I settled on, pushed by a Bondtech extruder on a UM2.

    Simplify worked for me as a slicer, using mostly the settings suggested by the model's creator.

  11. Hi there,

    I have not tried soldering the bed, but your reliable sources would be first and foremost Fabrc8, since they made you printer. :) But you might also check out thegr5strore.com.  They also sell UM stuff and Gr5 is a super helpful and friendly guy here on the forums.  Dynamism is also a UM seller in the US, so maybe check if they have parts.

    Lastly, I if none of that works and you cannot wait, there is a Canadian reseller, shop3d.ca.  That is Valcrow's store and Valcrow is another forum god like Gr5. :)

    Of course, those are all for proper OEM parts.  You can try other sources, but I have no idea what you will get.

    Anyway, hope this helps.  Good luck with the soldering! :)


    Thanks :)

    GR5's store was the first place I went. No luck. He has UM2GO print beds but no full sized beds listed. Then I went to FBRC8 and discovered they have none in stock (I left my e-mail address there to be notified when they have stock, but haven't heard a peep). Then I tried Matterhackers and Dynamism, no luck.

    Shop3d.ca has the bed listed, with "In stock" next to it, but no price is showing and I don't see an "add to cart" option:

    Middle of this Page

    I'll keep his page in my links because there are quite a few replacement parts/upgrades

  12. My 2,000 hour UM2 has been throwing the error about heated bed temp sensor off and on for a while now. I tightened the connections, which seemed to fix it for about a week, then I tried making the solder reflow, which seemed to help for 4 days. Now I'm over messing with it and would rather just replace that bed.

    I went to FBRC8's site to buy a replacement and they are sold out of the $197.00 beds. A quick search on Amazon shows $23.00 beds available, with the Ultimaker logo printed right on it.

    What's the best route to follow here? Does anyone know a reliable source for a quality replacement bed?



  13. I cannot guarantee at all but the z bearings are just exactly as the misumi ones I got for my other umo+. But agai, I don't know more than what I can see. Z looks fantastic.


    I just don't have warm fuzzy feelings telling me that Ultimaker recognized the issue of grinding bearings, addressed it across their company, and made it extinct.     Back in 2015, Fabrc8 sent me a pair of actual buttery-smooth Misumi bearings (complete with a Misumi logo laser engraved on each one) as RMA replacements for a defective pair.

    At that time I figured UM had recognized the issue and taken action.  So I was pleased.  Then I ordered a pair of bearings from Fabrc8's site, just to have an extra pair on hand. These were plain brown box bearings, and they did not perform as well as the Misumi ones.  

    So I think the performance of the bearings that Ultimaker buys and installs depends on the week.  Some good batches, some not.  And if they do maybe pay more for extra good ones now, I expect an accountant in their company will at some point convince them to save an extra couple dollars per system by going with a different supplier.  And that's why I'd want an official statement that UM has recognized the poor bearings issue, owned it, and permanently resolved it.   Or they could bring the overall price of the system down to the price point that would be appropriate for OK hardware, a price that would not make me expect high performance direct out of the box.

    • Like 1
  14. Not in its current configuration. It would need an option of Bondtech feeders instead of the UM2+ carryovers. Anything I've seen available on the market right now is a downgrade from Bondtech. Also it would need a guarantee of only high quality Misumi bearings being used on the vertical rods. The no-name bearings can be unreliable, making for poor layer uniformity and a waste of my time in diagnosing/replacing

    • Like 1
  15. Buy out Prusa MK2 machines, slap UM3 logo on it and call it a day :)


    So far those MK2 reviews have been glowing. Josef says the magic is in his mesh auto leveling in the firmware. Plus the heated bed manages multiple areas in order to maintain an even temperature. I like the fact that it can be torn down quickly to fit in a suitcase, which can go in the overhead bin of an airliner. I did that with a UM2, but it was an ordeal. The MK2 prints are being compared to UM2 quality. It could all be early hype though. I haven't used one yet :-)

    My plan is to wait til Nov when the MK2 4-color mixer is supposed to be released, then read about peoples' experiences and try talking myself out of buying one, or wait for the UM3 to set a new standard.

  16. Wow duel printing can be done? LOL  Sigma BCN3d that's cool machine!.


    Yes it looks great at first, but then start reading personal accounts of peoples' experiences which are not glowing. Some end up parking 1 head and sticking with solo use

  17. It's true that Ultimaker products are more expensive than other 3D printers.


    That seemed to be true last year, but several comparable new machines are priced at or slightly above the UM2+: Raise3D N2, BCN3D Sigma, 3DGence One, and Lulzbot TAZ6 are a few

  18. (On my two UM2 machines)

    It seems there's a tiny bit of wiggle room between the printing head's lower aluminum plate and the Hot End Isolator.      It's a very tiny bit of wiggle, but I'm curious  whether making that joint rigid would improve printing accuracy at all.  

    Has anyone experimented with this, or does anyone have a trick for eliminating that wiggle?  

    Last year I had an Isolator that wouldn't fit all the way down inside its hole (it wouldn't seat against the aluminum plate) because it was too fat near the top of its thin cylinder.  That wasn't good for fitting of the spring replacement, but it sure made the block and nozzle rigid.   I replaced that isolator with one that would seat properly.

    I'm just not sure if the feel of rigidity would actually translate to better prints

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