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Posts posted by chrisw

  1. If you have this version, please contact 3D Solex to have a replacement shipped asap.


    I have a pair of BV3's with chromey tops like that. I figured the leaking after initial installation was caused by inadequate pressure, so I just tightened the isolators and both stopped leaking. Perhaps that high pressure won't be good for the plastic couplers in the long run though. I'll contact the dealer.

    These blocks print great in any case. Filament manufacturers and 3D Printing retail companies should be pushing this BV3 block hard because users like me burn through spools of filament at a much-accelerated rate after installation. Thanks for the great invention.

  2. Is there a particular Ultimaker you would recommend?


    Going  by the criteria listed in your original post, it looks like UMO+ is the only Ultimaker version which suits for pricing and sizing.   I agree with @Dim3nsioneer that if you could find a used UM2 for your price, it would be grand.  But in my area they go for $1500+

    >edited to add: But then again, there may not be any UMO+ machines available in your area. I was thinking of this local USA dealer's $995 price:

    Ultimaker Original + Kit

  3. Thank you for your response.  In objects printed with flat bottom what did you find useful and securing it down?  I currently use kapton tape.


    I'd slow the print speed. If you notice with PETG , it likes to go up toward the hot nozzle and stick to the nozzle whenever possible. It'll defy gravity to move toward that heat. In this way PETG's warping differs from ABS I think. ABS is shrinking as it cools. I'm sure PETG does this slightly as well, but more of the peeling up is caused by that soft plastic wanting to follow the hot nozzle IMO. Even on medium-sized prints when using this material, the plastic will be soft a few layers deep because it maintains heat for a long time after extrusion. I think slowing the print helps the plastic stay stuck to the glass.

    Like @gr5 , I don't use Kapton. I use a heated glass bed with hair spray for PETG. For PLA I use glue stick, but for PET the extreme-hold spray works better for me, with less cleanup required

  4.  hairspray is best for a noob but you have to remove the glass every time or you get glue all over your machine's working parts.


    Yes definitely remove the glass to apply the spray. I only need to reapply the spray once every 25 prints or so, though. You can see marks where previous prints have been, but there's still a layer of spray on the glass and it keeps on working

  5. For PETG you need to dial in your nozzle temp to a small window of about +- 5c. I use eSun brand mostly and it seems to like 238 - 243 best. The temp can stray up and down outside of that range, but you can see differences in the print as a result. Example: temp way too low = very slow extrusion. temp a little low: lines printed next to each other stay separate instead of merging into 1. temp a little too high = lots of stringing. Temp way too high = inconsistent extrusion diameter of lines being printed.

    I like to make the temp such that minor occasional stringing occurs across open spaces. It seems like then I get very strong parts with good layer bonding.

    Ideal bed temp for my projects have been 75C. I use a coat of hair spray (applied when bed is cold), and it keeps the print fixed in place until the bed cools down. I haven't experienced warping unless there's a large flat bottom layer. But I do have the machine's front and top covered.

    Good luck!

    • Like 1

  6. After installation of the MB, I noticed more stringing was present than there had been with the OB (This was using a gcode file that had been dialed-in to work well with the OB). I dropped the nozzle temp 3C and sped up the print speed 25%. That combination seems to have created the same quality of prints I was getting with the OB.

    My first impression: The MB makes my system more efficient and faster. The one part of the OB that I may miss at some point are the little holes on the underside. They helped me remove the PT100 from my OB without need for any pulling, A paperclip pushed that stubborn part right out

  7. I agree with @gbp01 ... Very satisfied. I purchased a pair of them for my two UM2 systems. The items arrived to my door, which is on a different continent from their origin, just a few days after I ordered online. It's great machinery, it's affordable, and it just works well.

    Bondtech recently provided a simple gcode file to use for making the firmware updates. Just run the gcode print and your UM2 gets configured for the Bondtech, so recompiling isn't necessary any longer

  8. do you know the cause of this and how to prevent it from happening again


    Probably there's not enough pressure among those 3 components that are vertically in line between the top & bottom plates of your printer head. If you can reach in with your fingers and spin that aluminum cylinder which sits atop the white plastic coupler, then it's too loose. The way to tighten it would be to rotate the metal ring that has the visible holes (just below the white plastic coupler). You'd need to do that after cleaning, and while the nozzle is warm.... maybe 150-170C. The cylinder should be snug but not really tight. Too much pressure would deform the white plastic piece.

    At first this explanation probably doesn't make sense, because the leak is happening below those 3 parts. But pressure for the lower joint comes from making those 3 inline parts fit more snugly between the top/bottom plates

    • Like 1

  9. For most of that Benchy project your print head goes over an area laying down hot plastic. The nozzle moves along to other areas and the hot plastic cools while the nozzle is busy elsewhere. Then the head comes back and lays more hot plastic on top of the cooled areas.

    That changes when the printer gets to the smoke stack. Now the nozzle lays down hot plastic, circles around a few times really fast, then lays more molten PLA on top of the still-warm plastic. That happens again and again, so the heat builds in that smokestack. The whole thing is hot, and more layers added on top add more weight, making it sag.

    A few ways to deal with it:

    - make sure the fans are at 100%

    - decrease the nozzle temp when it gets to the smoke stack base layers.

    - decrease the print speed when it gets to the smoke stack base layers.

  10. The frame is only made of flat panels. It can be perfectly square but the rods/pulleys/belts/bearings can be misadjusted or damaged and can cause problems like you're describing. I wouldn't apply force trying to straighten anything out, because usually you only need tools to make adjustments to these machines.

    And like @xeno suggested, post some pics of print failures!

  11. Creality made a cheap clone of the Deezmaker Bukito about a year or more ago. The link you posted looks like Creality used that same design, but now with a new base incorporating the power supply inside the base section. The original design had a small base with a separate brick PS.

    I have a Bukito, and it's nice for portability (you can break it down to fit into a biefcase fast). But that's all I use it for. It requires a lot more hands-on tending during print than my UM2 machines, and the resulting prints aren't as accurate.

    I've read some good and some bad reviews of Creality machines, which is fitting because they're chinese hit-or-miss systems. Some may work well for a while, some may be junk. Who knows.

    And I expect the laser engraver part of that macine will not perform to your expectations. Do they have any realtime videos of the laser performing? Or dies it show the laser starting, then transition magically to the end result (no telling how long the small laser project actually took?)

    As far as lasers go, I expect tge one they include is anywhere from .5 to 2 watts. You can get a 40W entire CO2 laser machine that cuts through plastics and 1/4" plywood for $350, so I think it's a wasted effort trying to incorporate a diode laser into a 3d printer.

    Just my opinion from limited experience with lasers and printers. What about a UMO+? That should fit into your budget pretty well. There are many satisfied owners.

  12. I would first try powering off the system, then raising the build plate all the way up. To raise it manually just grab under each side of the bed support plate, just in front of the "Ultimaker 2" sign. It should have some even resistance all the way up. Then when it's fully up, release it. If everything is perfect the bed should slide back down to the floor from its own weight. Most machines that I've worked with need a little extra pressure though. If it doesn't slide down by itself, try helping with a light push.

    On its way up and down the motion should be consistent. If you feel bumps or extra drag at those specific 2 points, then it's probably either a damaged z screw, rod, or bearing, or maybe just something that needs to be cleaned out.

    Also, what does it sound like when the power's off and you're sliding the bed up and down? Smooth or grinding sounds?

  13. Hi @ChrisW, did you talk to any of the UM crew members?

    I was there as well, but I don't believe we met, did we?


    I talked with a UM dealer from Canada. I want to say his name but I'm afraid I'll butcher the spelling. It sounded like Nietzsche. The UM booth area was flooded with potential customers who were being helped by the UM crew members, so I just admired the Z-unlimited setup and moved on.

    I had no idea how much variety would be at the Faire. Yes I enjoyed it immensely. Toward the day's end my brain was both shot and alive with ideas from all the creations I'd seen.

    I'm sure I'll be at another of these events. Next time I'll allocate more than 1 day and we'll be more likely to meet :)

  14. Yes, we're there!


    For a couple of good reasons, it was difficult finding the real Ultimaker display. First off, there were several other companies scattered around the Faire, each running multiple UMs. And secondly: the real UM area was swamped with people asking questions. So I got to be there and talk for a few mins, but yielded to the wave of customers.

    Overall I think I counted about a dozen UMs at other vendors. Second most popular and most spread-around were Printrbots. They were a close second.

    Aleph Objects was right across from UM and I was glad to check out the newly released Lulzbot Taz 6. While watching one printing right there at the show I was having flashbacks to the Lulzbot Mini that had spent a few days at my house last year (before I shipped it back to Amazon for a refund). Both the Mini and this brand new Taz 6 would print layers that did not line up directly on top of each other. Maybe I'm spoiled by my UM2s, but my eyes homed in on that as soon as they got past the pretty octopus graphics that's printed on the machine case.

    So that seems to be the Lulzbot Achilles heel, spread across multiple versions: X/Y accuracy is not great. To be fair, there were two machines printing at the time. One didn't have this obvious issue, so maybe it's not universal among Taz's, but it's very frequent.

    UM still has its own Achilles heel IMO: the feeder. There was a 2+ underextruding while printing a large vase. The flat base layers were solid, but the walls were about 1 CM tall so far and missing about 1/4 of the material. It was silver PLA, which has not always been the best flowing for me, but still... It's the 2+ with the new feeder which is supposed to be the fix. I'm still happy that I bought a pair of Bondtechs, and honestly still feeling like there are no better 3DP machines I could have picked. UM2s are awesome.

    I was wanting to learn about tiny computers and how to make my own little robots for automation of tasks. That was one of the reasons for my attendance at Maker Faire. But I came away overwhelmed by options. All I see are little green or red boards with chips on them. All manufacturers of boards like Rasberry Pi, Arduino, Beagle Board have supporters saying they're the best.

    One day was not nearly enough for attending this show. Next year if I can, I'll do the whole weekend instead of a Sunday.


    Hi, I'm having a weird issue when changing the Infill Density to 100%, it updates the shell layers out of proportion


    Because there isn't really a bottom layer any more. If I recall correctly, the density of 100% is faked by setting all layers to bottom layer (and thus being fully filled)


    Faking bottom layers on demand would be very useful. When I embed hardware like nuts in a print, it would be nice to make the immediate layers solid, yet have typical infill for the rest of the print. Could that be added as a plugin?

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