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chrisw

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Posts posted by chrisw


  1. should indeed not be there, if the hot-end-isolator will drop the half mm (or what is it) you will loos all pressure of the PTFE.... and get leaks... you probably don't have any pressure right now...

     

    I have 2 UM2s here. One has no space there, the other does. And both are tight with pressure. On the one with space present I've tried tightening more when it's warm, hot, and cold, and I don't think it'll get tighter without me damaging something.

    Unfortunately both these metal Isolators may be from different sources and I'm not sure which is which. I've bought some from UM and some from GR5, and they all ended up in one plastic bag

    20160328_125810_resized.thumb.jpg.8802b413b4232780633692a2ad97aa44.jpg

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  2. Yes I am correct if you look at this picture you can see all be it quiet hard the is a flange on the coupler

     

    I think that flange is just the end of where the tap stopped cutting threads.  Of course some may be different from others, though.   Here's a picture of a coupler and isolator that I slid together.  The PTFE slides easily all the way into the isolator with no space between them.

    @Bob-Hepple Or you're looking at a flange on the outside of the cylinder, which i was't seeing at first, I think I see what you're talking about now. Yes that could be present on one of my isolators too. I'll check that out later

    20160328_132139_resized.thumb.jpg.bfc1acabc6d7c7fa99023b556223c7a5.jpg

    And here's a look down inside

    20160328_132105_resized.thumb.jpg.5df54c6bbd1ae85f5d2210474dbd85eb.jpg

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  3. Ok Got some pics of past and present first layers

     

    After you freshly leveled the bed, I think you're getting a blobbed effect on layer1 from a couple things:

    First, if the layer height is .2 and you have the bed set closer than .2 to the nozzle while it's printing a solid first layer, then there's too much material getting extruded and it must go somewhere, so it squeezes out and piles up. Maybe turn each bed adjuster 1/4 turn tighter and see if that helps.

    Second, if this material prints great at 200C for layers 3 and up, then I'd try that same temp for layer 1. Lower print speed + higher temp may be part of the issue.

     

    if you turn the coupler it exerts pressure on the Ptfe how does this happen if I turn it the OB block lowers>>>>?????

     

    Hah. Yes that got me when I first started working with my OB. Think about the fact that when you turn the coupler so that it screws in tighter towards the block, there's a flat edge (part of the block) inside the coupler. The PTFE coupler sits on that flat edge. So when you tighten the coupler it pulls that flat edge up against the PTFE coupler. That pressure forces the block down and the PTFE up


  4. I love my Bondtech QR3.0.   But myself and some others who've become accustomed to the quick and easy release mechanism in Robert's feeder are not completely satisfied with the stock QR3.0 spring-loaded screw adjustment mechanism.  The screw works, but it could be better.   So I started working with ideas on how to make a faster release that provided enough pressure.  

    v1.1 has been in use for a few days on both of my UM2s.  So far they've been working well, but some improvements are needed, such as easy tension adjustments and maybe a guide for the cords where they pass around the bowden tube.   Some manipulation is required each time when latching with this version to make sure the cords stay off to the sides, not touching the tube.

    20160323_081544_resized.thumb.jpg.567498d6710e58bd8de66ec868592b70.jpg

    20160323_081614_resized.thumb.jpg.77217f128b0a6f261e68b91ed685d1d2.jpg

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    20160323_084539_resized.thumb.jpg.553fde9450c88d66d9fb2691ffa2c93a.jpg


  5. @Cloakfiend The block has remnants of leaked PETG from the time before I replaced the spring. Most of the leaked material has already been removed actually :p

    @SandervG I took off the fans to install the spring replacement spacer last week, and I just left them off with intentions of disassembling the block and cleaning it one of these days.

    Glue doesn't work all that well on PET for me, unless using paint stripper or PVC glue to dissolve/bond, and that stuff is pretty nasty. So I figured why not just print both pieces into one. How would you use a heating tool to fuse them together without damaging the parts? Maybe it's a technique I need to learn.


  6. [print=3347][/print]

    My friend's old boat needed some replacement logos.  One was broken, the other badly worn.  "Sure, I can do that!" I said.   Then I measured and realized it was too long for my UM2's bed.  Oops.  So I needed a way to make this work.  In OnShape I made a 2-part model that could be fused into one.    

    The first part was printed, then removed from the bed:

    20160321_210930_resized.thumb.jpg.c4116e2595e51a7575e938bb04c6a60f.jpg

    Now Part 2 began printing.  After 1 mm PauseatZ kicked in to let me add Part 1

    curasearay.thumb.jpg.edd48a56eaec09ad3eb692b3fec8645e.jpg

    I used a small clamp to hold Part 1 pressed against Part 2 while the nozzle fused them together

    20160321_220121_resized.thumb.jpg.20f26277412655d8365fb293b07c78c7.jpg

    20160321_231156_resized.thumb.jpg.e3a0cdc8cf000fee131bc092ff1671ec.jpg

    A little flame polish added slightly more gloss after the print completed

    20160321_234735_resized.thumb.jpg.388ae69ef427c14dbed14e7501af0efc.jpg

    20160321_210930_resized.thumb.jpg.c4116e2595e51a7575e938bb04c6a60f.jpg

    curasearay.thumb.jpg.edd48a56eaec09ad3eb692b3fec8645e.jpg

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    • Like 7

  7. @Ataraxis said:   There is a new "spring loaded lever" on version 3 (QR) of the Bondtech-extruder, and... well - i don't like it very much be honest. I would prefer another approach to quick-load the feeder - something like a snap lock?!

    I miss the snap lock from the |Robert| feeder too.   I thought about ideas such as making an adjustable cam lever, but I didn't find a good way to attach it to the @Bondtech housing.   So I pulled a piece of bungee cord out of a drawer, tied it around the motor, adjusted the length to suit, and... done!

    I'm probably going to change from 1/8" to 3/16" bungee for the final version.

    Before:

    20160319_002610_resized.thumb.jpg.87bfa54bd6c2439e65f8cbe4dedf823c.jpg

    After:

    20160319_002543_resized.thumb.jpg.8af2817bfea7eac6c693c6b45ab378ad.jpg

    20160319_002610_resized.thumb.jpg.87bfa54bd6c2439e65f8cbe4dedf823c.jpg

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  8. This is exactly why too much force can be dangerous

    https://ultimaker.com/en/community/20077-umo-strange-issue

     

    I've been enjoying my Bondtech for the last couple weeks, while trying to figure out the oozing issue.   The amount of ooze is very material-specific.  Typically I use PETG for my parts, and it oozes like crazy, nonstop.  ABS however oozes a little and then stops.  

    One thing about PETG that always made me enjoy using it:  clogging doesn't happen because the moire time it spends inside a hot end, the more liquid it becomes.   That's not helpful now though.

    Tightening the coupler down against the block has been the only solution that's worked thus far in stopping the ooze.  I tried the spring replacement cylinder but it didn't seem to help (then again I didn't seem to have one that fit exactly right... but that's for another thread).

    I found this post on the Lulzbot forum, and I'm thinking it sounds like a good idea: using high-temp threadlock liquid, in this case for the coupler's threads

    https://www.lulzbot.com/content/budaschnozzle-20-pla-fix-high-temp-thread-lock-nozzle-threads

    That said,  I prefer having this issue to resolve instead of the alternative of going back to slow prints!


  9. A couple of Bondtech UM2 kits showed up at my California door just about 3 days after I placed the order. That was fast. Failed feedings were already a thing of the past for me because Robert's feeder solved that long ago. The addition of this new pricey hardware put my UM2 into hyper mode. I can push a lot more material through the nozzle now. The reliability and quality printing seems the same as when I had the Robert feeder installed, but now I get all of that with around 30% more speed.

    So that's the good side of it. The down side isn't really an issue with the Bondtech hardware. It's more of an issue that was enabled by the Bondtech extra speed and pressure: Now my Olsson block leaks through the coupler/block joint threads. I haven't resolved that one yet... every 7 hours of printing I clean the material blob off the block. This only happens when I'm greedy, forcing more filament through fast.

    So I guess it's like with a car: upgrade the engine and you get higher speed (yay!) Which lights up your eyes until you feel the speed wobbles. Then you need to upgrade the suspension to resolve the newfound inadequacies. Then the steering feels too loose...

    I'm happy with my Bondtech purchases. My UM2 seems like so much more now.


  10. gr5 is probably right about your nozzle being clear already in this case, since so much filament is going through in your pictures. I'm just accustomed to swapping those out at the drop of a hat.

    Whenever you do decide you need to remove a nozzle, here's the UM guide:

    https://ultimaker.com/en/manuals/17869-swapping-nozzles

    "Tune" menu is there when you're busy printing. But when the machine's idle there's a different menu available: "Material". That's where all the filament settings are located. Maybe change your PLA material settings to suit the brand you're using, and then try one of the quick and simple prints, like an ultimaker bot that came on the SD card for your printer.


  11. I'm at about 2k hours worth of printing on UM2s so far, spread over the last 18 months. GR5 and others here got me through some frustrating times early on. Sometimes I wanted to blame the printer and I even tried a couple other brands along the way. Eventually I realized the same issues are present for all similar styles of printers, and I just needed to spend time learning to identify the problem sources and how to correct them.

    If I were experiencing your particular before/after ABS problem, the first thing I'd do: replace the nozzle. I have plenty replacements in a drawer and if an atomic pull or few is possibly not clearing the nozzle 100% then I toss the suspect nozzle.

    Next thing would be use a caliper to check the size of the filament. If maybe it's 2.89 mm and the setting is for 2.85 mm, that could be creating the extra bumps because too much material could be getting extruded.

    Then I'd try extruding using the Move Material function, at a few different temps 10-15C up and down from what I'd been using. It could be the temp is too low, so maybe the filament isn't flowing as well as it could, causing the extra blobs.... or maybe it's too hot, thereby making cooked blobs.

    I hope some of this can help. My most common issues are the ones I look at first: clear nozzle, correct filament size, correct nozzle temp. I don't dig into deeper possibilities until these basics have been covered, because 90% (made-up stat but it seems about right) of the time the issue is one or a combo of those.

    Chris


  12. Thanks for the input @Gr5 . I did some more reading about the Orions, and found quite a few reports of printers that were damaged during shipping. So it probably wouldn't suit my travelling needs at all.

    Although I want a Go, I couldn't justify buying one right now, so I convinced one of the my UM2s it could fit in the overhead bin of an airliner. It just needed some coercion:

    20160228_190828_resized.thumb.jpg.517fb13fd67abc239fded406bde6b86f.jpg

    I haven't reconstituted the machine yet. Hopefully she goes back together as easily as she came apart

    20160228_190828_resized.thumb.jpg.517fb13fd67abc239fded406bde6b86f.jpg

    • Like 1

  13.  

    upgrades feeder (feeder opens like the iroberti and is 2X more powerful)

     

    Maybe a minor detail but the new feeder can be manually opened, only by pushing against the spring, so you'll always need a hand for this, while with roberts feeder you can just leave it open...

     

    That's good to know. I've come to rely on that convenience.


  14. Yes. @Labern gave a great repsonse.

    Thinking as a consumer however my brain starts clicking through the "What will it cost me?" questions. $1450 base price + $100 heated bed + $395 plus kit = $1945.00 So almost $500 for me to manually bring a GO up to current UM2+ status. That's over 1/3 of the original purchase price to be spent in upgrades. I'm sure the end product would be quite pleasing, but the price tag makes it prohibitive for me to pull the trigger.

    @Gr5 is always good at shooting down delusions others may have of finding greener grass for half the price elsewhere. ;) So if I'm wrong, please fire away at this line of thinking to set me on the right path, GR5: An Orion is $1045 + $85 for an e3D hot end kit (for 260C capability). Heated bed is standard. The shipping box is 30" x 16" x 16", which fits into current airline limits for checked baggage without extra charges, so I can take it wherever for the cost of one checked bag. So maybe this $800 price difference for similar performance could make it worth the addition of a 1.75mm delta printer to the stable.

    • Like 1

  15. In my perspective the UM2 GO has always looked like an almost-awesome machine that could be made awesome (Though I know it serves many people well as-s). There's always been a fatal flaw keeping me from buying one. Upon original release the big crippling factor was the missing heated bed. Many months later that void was filled by a third party, but I no longer needed a traveling UM2 by that point.

    Once again I'm in need of a UM2 that can venture to multiple states and countries more easily. And once again the GO is looking Almost-Awesome. Does Ultimaker plan to fill the current void by providing a free "+" upgrade kit with the current GO sales. or plan to have a GO++ version with both heated bed and upgraded extruder/hot end available?

    My credit card will soon be charged for some sort of fully functional traveling system, or for high shipping charges for one of my full sized UM2s. @SandervG is a GO+ of some flavor soon to be an option? :O

    Thanks,

    Chris


  16. One of my systems is 1.5 years old, the other is .5. The settings and hardware are all the same to the best of my knowledge, but they act different from each other in a couple of ways.

    Both systems use: Robert feeder, Olsson Block with .6 nozzle, GR5's 35W heater, and the Ultitop cover/door.

    Difference #1: The newer UM2 shows approx 10C less nozzle temp in the control panel to get the same results from the same materials. This 10C difference has been the same for the stock heaters and the upgrades. It's not a big deal, but if it's possible to make them read the same it'd be nice.

    Difference #2: The feeder motor on the newer machine seems to "chirp" or skip a step as soon as there's any strain being put on it. However the feeder motor on my older machine seems to chug right along, pushing filament through stronger, only skipping a step if I'm pushing it hard. Could there be anything making these two feeder motors behave differently?

    These aren't really issues, because both systems are providing great print results. Just a couple questions I've been wondering about for a while.


  17. Simplify3D has an option called wipe while retracting that helps a lot to remove z scar and that static retract blobs.

     

    Thanks for the tip on that feature. I have S3D and didn't realize it could do that. So of course today I went and experimented with that option. It opens a whole can of worms, and so far my results have not been better than the parked-head style of retraction.

    Chris


  18. The fix for the Z bearing banding issues is to take them off your plate and clean them out thoroughly getting all oil and grease out.  Oil can actually jam up the bearings a bit.  But I'm not 100% convinced that's your banding problem.

     

    I was finally able to disassemble my newer UM2 and install the new Z-bearings that FBRC8 sent. These new Misumi bearings are much better than the originals. My non-exact measure of excellence for these bearings: I'd hold one bearing horizontal in one hand, slide in a rod, and see how much I'd need to tilt the bearing to make the rod start sliding. The results were a few degrees for the original bearings, and I couldn't make the rod be still with the new bearings. It was like first time trying to ice skate... no matter what I tried, that rod would slide one way or the other.

    After installing these into my system, the new UM2 system was now printing better than my older UM2. So I did a tune-up on the old system, and both are performing very well now.

    • Like 1
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