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chrisw

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Posts posted by chrisw


  1. Something I can't figure out how to control the speed of in 15.06.02 is the movement speed during combing.  I have the travel speed set to 200 mm/s in Cura, and in the UM2 hardware settings I have Max X = 200, Max Y = 200.   It seems like all movement is 200 or less except during the combing actions, which happen at breakneck speeds.  How can I slow that down?

    edited to add: This issue of mine may not be related to 15.06.02. I think I just don't understand all the movement and acceleration functions yet. Turns out I was over extruding in my current print because of a wrong diameter filament setting. Globs were building in a couple places, then the nozzle would run into one at high speed and cause the nozzle to be off for the rest of the print. Maybe it's all going same speed now as it was yesterday when I was using 14.09


  2. In the Layers view I can't see the blue lines showing print lines or retractions. Is there a way to enable those? Those lines were present in previous versions of Cura before the 15.06, and they're very helpful for me when using a pause command. Blue lines let me see whether or not after resuming the first thing to get printed will be the scratch block over in the corner.

    Untitled.thumb.jpg.0c6be018092e41e065924078033844b5.jpg

    Untitled.thumb.jpg.0c6be018092e41e065924078033844b5.jpg

    • Like 1

  3. At a printing speed of 50 mm/sec the reported printing time is 2 hours 22 minutes.

     

    I had a similar issue tonight. I loaded and tweaked a model that should take 5.5 hours to print. It became 20 hours for some reason. I removed the Ultimaker2 printer that was listed in Cura (This machine profile was brought over from 15.06.01, I think), then I added it again, and the print times were more reasonable.


  4. I think your idea of pausing and adding a layer of tape is a good one. You can build a simple scaffold into the model with space allowing for the tape. Then disable all supports in Cura.

    Pause at the top of the scaffold, add the tape, maybe also use tweak at that height to change printing speed (slow down for 1 layer maybe) and increase flow rate (maybe 105% for 1 layer).

    That's what I've been doing when embedding a horizontal steel plate into a part: Pause, drop the plate onto a scaffold, push some extra filament through while it's paused to make sure it's all primed, then resume. Tweak slows everything down 50% for a layer


  5. For the option 1, i will add a warning maybe, i've always done the option 2 but i thought that this way was also possible, i'm not really aware of a weakness in the steel coupler but @swordriff told me the same.

     

    It's interesting to see your Option 1 version. So far I've only used Option 2. The part that I'd worry about with #1 would be getting the threads started, making sure they're straight. When there's no spring pushing down on the coupler it's easy for my fingers to feel whether or not the threads are turning freely onto the block's threads, or if there might be too much friction because of a cross-thread. In option #1 the spring might obscure that feel I would worry.

    I'm confident in using just 1 hole on that steel coupler to adjust it a bit after it's all assembled though... like when making adjustments to add the correct spacing between the block and the fan shroud for example. Maybe I'm just too lazy to disassemble the whole thing again (I do have an extra steel coupler from UM sitting in a drawer just in case I bust it, though)


  6. I bought 5 ft of this one:

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#51805k86/=x750zh

    The material looks and feels just like the original, however the size I chose has a larger ID than the one that comes with the UM2, and this has some pros and cons.

    The pro part: There's much less drag on filaments that are 3.0+ mm in diameter.

    The con part: It's not quite as stiff as the original one because the ID is larger, but OD is same... so the wall is slimmer. That fact combined with the extra room inside makes the retractions not as accurate as they were with the original. Now there's a little slop that you can see when retraction occurs.

    If I just wanted a replacement for the original, I'd get the same style part that I got, but with 1/8" ID instead of the 5/32":

    http://www.mcmaster.com/#51805k72/=x756gd

    Those other two you listed may work as well. I only have experience with the one I picked so far though


  7. But the main thing is that the board is the same. The psu can easily be replaced... will make a kit a bit more expensive. .

    I'm in a similar situation to what the OP described, where I may need a second printer soon, and all the parts I'll be making with it will be small. The reduced footprint and price of a Go model would be nice if it were as functional as its big brothers. Even if the price of adding those extra parts makes it $175 more expensive than the current Go listing, I'd buy it.

    I already have extra parts for my UM2 just in case anything fails, so it would be nice to have that stash of extra parts covering 2 printers.

    The lulzbot mini has everything except the ability to stand alone. So neither one of these two mini machines has everything I want. However maybe adding a Mattercontrol Touchpad to the mini could resolve its weak area.


  8. Hey Chris,

    Glad to hear you're having good results with PET+. Do you mind sharing what settings you're using?

    Settings that've provided me with good results so far:

    nozzle: .4 mm

    nozzle temp: 250

    bed temp: 70

    layer height: .15

    speed: 38 mm/s

    retraction: 30 mm/s, 4 mm

    fan: off

    filament: 3.00 mm

    flow rate: 105%

    movement: 225 mm/s

    nozzle: .6 mm

    nozzle temp: 250

    bed temp: 70

    layer height: .25

    speed: 35 mm/s

    retraction: 30 mm/s, 4 mm

    fan: off

    filament: 3.00 mm

    flow rate: 105%

    movement: 225 mm/s

    Also I've started using less glue stick than usual (thin layers). It makes removal easier after cooling, and I haven't had anything come loose while printing with this material yet.

    • Like 1

  9. I had some issues with interlayer adhesion but I had that with any PET material I tried so far except XT clear made in 2013.

    Dim3nsioneer, I had that issue once with this PET+, but I was running at higher speed than recommended with taller layers than usual. If I follow the manufacturer's suggestions or stick to similar speed, heat, and layer height settings, then my parts come out as solid pieces.

    On one of my prints I tested a vertical wall to destruction. It broke in a wavy line across the wall, instead of straight across on a layer line. Inside the break it looked like 1 piece of plastic. I couldn't see separate layers. With XT I've also seen this sometimes, but everything needed to be just right, and I'd still have warping.


  10. madesolid_pet_black.thumb.jpg.e09628cfc9080879140fd5c8b69d4e1b.jpg

    I started using this PET+ a couple weeks ago. So far I've tried 3 different colors (tangerine, translucent red, black) and they all perform well. No warping or shrinkage, zero blockages. I don't even bother to do a cold pull. Instead I use the Move Material function from the UM2 each time before printing, and whatever was in the nozzle melts and flows on out.

    I'm having much better results with this material than I did with XT, My red XT was brittle and had a tendency to warp if everything wasn't just right. I e-mailed colorfabb about XT and UV rays, because some of my prints will be spending many hours outdoors. Colorfabb didn't have any encouragement for me about using XT outdoors. MadeSolid told me this PET+ won't be negatively affected by sunlight for the couple hundred hours total outdoor time that I inquired about. I still need to test that claim of course.

    So I'm wondering if anyone knows any serious negatives about PET+. I'm quite happy with it, but I'd like to know its weaknesses too. Anybody?

    Chris

    madesolid_pet_black.thumb.jpg.e09628cfc9080879140fd5c8b69d4e1b.jpg


  11. Agreed. Several months ago this was a great site for me to learn the basics about my UM2 and about 3DP in general. When I had an issue, the answer would be easy to find in past posts, or I'd ask in a new post, and somebody else would be quick to solve my dilemma.

    Now it's difficult to do much of anything in here, which leads me to look for other 3DP info sources online.

    Why is that?

    Does the way the forum is categorized not make sense to you?

    This new forum should be more obvious where to find the topics you are looking for.

    All/Most of the old data is migrated, it is more efficiently categorized and the basic Q&A still works so what leads you to think you can't do much in here in contrary of the old forums?

    Even though the forum search needs to be improved, the website search option (top right corner) works very well.

    Looking forward to your reply.

    Sander,

    First off, this very small reply window in which I'm typing makes it difficult to edit the reply/quote/etc data. That's why the whole conversation is still there.

    Next, about the categories. I'm glad you asked because I hadn't really assigned a reason to my feelings of unease about the categories until you asked and made me think about it. I'm accustomed to seeing all forum categories on one page, with brief descriptions of each category next to it, as well as a list of how many total threads are in each category, and how many are new to me.

    These days I have no spare time. So when I encounter any situation that is taking more of my time than it should, my brain automatically attempts to evacuate me from that setting. This forum requires too many clicks and too much sifting through extra pages. In other forums I can open one page, do a brief scan of the categories, and instantly know which category I'm going to visit, and why. This one doesn't yet make me feel like I have a direction when I first open the page.

    Chris

    • Like 2

  12. Agreed. Several months ago this was a great site for me to learn the basics about my UM2 and about 3DP in general. When I had an issue, the answer would be easy to find in past posts, or I'd ask in a new post, and somebody else would be quick to solve my dilemma.

    Now it's difficult to do much of anything in here, which leads me to look for other 3DP info sources online.

    Why is that?

    Does the way the forum is categorized not make sense to you?

    This new forum should be more obvious where to find the topics you are looking for.

    All/Most of the old data is migrated, it is more efficiently categorized and the basic Q&A still works so what leads you to think you can't do much in here in contrary of the old forums?

    Even though the forum search needs to be improved, the website search option (top right corner) works very well.

    Looking forward to your reply.

    Sander,

    This is my third attempt to reply to you... not your fault, but something about the design of this page just tends to reject my attempts at navigating it.

    For example, on my first attempt to describe some of my complaints with this page, I attempted to open a view of the Categories in a new window. At the top of this page I right-clicked "Forum", chose "Open in a new window". Sure enough a new window opened, however this one in which I'm writing also vanished and went to the main Forum page.

    During my second attempt to write a reply here, I started telling you that first story. After I'd almost finished typing it, a big error message showed up on the screen about a timeout. So that text was wiped out... I navigate back here, and this time I'm "copying all" every few seconds just in case, so next time I won't need to retype.

    These are the sorts of frustrating issues that I feel are wasting time during each visit here. Maybe it just requires learning the quirks of this system.

    Also, over half the time that I'm browsing forums these days, it's on my Android. For some reason this page responds very slowly on my Android browser. So I watch a blank white screen while I'm waiting for it to load.

    • Like 2

  13. Agreed. Several months ago this was a great site for me to learn the basics about my UM2 and about 3DP in general. When I had an issue, the answer would be easy to find in past posts, or I'd ask in a new post, and somebody else would be quick to solve my dilemma.

    Now it's difficult to do much of anything in here, which leads me to look for other 3DP info sources online.

    • Like 4

  14. I'd like to design my own support structures into some models. Cura's automated supports work well usually, but I figure it'll save time & material if I draw supports into the part.

    I have some ideas of how to proceed, but I figured ask around here first:

    1) How to make a support wall be very easy to remove, leaving few artifacts?

    2) How best to support a flat horizontal surface, yet the support removes cleanly?

    3) If I'm printing the same part 50 times, is it feasible to print supports separately and reuse them repeatedly (dropping these supports in place after pausing at Z)? What material to use for such supports, so that maybe the item's material won't bond with it?

    TIA,

    Chris

     

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