
oliver3d
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A flail, printed in one piece with fast settings @ 0.2mm Vase, printed with transparent blue PLA @ 0.25mm
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No image? :blink:
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How does the material look on the other end, in the feeder mechanism? That amount of inprint from the feeder is normal I think. How is your bed leveling? That looks like the nozzle might be to high from the build plate, thus not pressing the first layers enough.
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I sure did. edited. Yeah, i guess calling it a new technology is a bit wrong.
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Here's a TED talk about this:
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(UMO) Dual extrusion heads different heights
oliver3d replied to matthew22's topic in Third party products & modifications
Here is how to calibrate the nozzles, just like Neotko said: http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Dual_Extrusion:_Calibrate -
I can't really see what that is. What it is supposed to look like? Could you maybe show the model file?
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Bulge/Blob at top of prints with small cone like tips trouble :/
oliver3d replied to acreus's topic in Ultimaker 3D printers
I agree -
Bulge/Blob at top of prints with small cone like tips trouble :/
oliver3d replied to acreus's topic in Ultimaker 3D printers
Hello! Yeah, this is a really simple issue to solve. As you know, the nozzle is really hot. When it stays in a small area for a long time, the plastic beneath gets too hot and melts. So what you need to do is give it time to cool down. There are a couple of things you can do: 1. Print two at a time. This way it has time to cool while the head moves to the other model. 2. In the settings you can give it a "minimal time per layer" and enable "cool head lift" which will move the heated head away from the print for a set amount of time, thus giving it time to cool. Hope this helps -
To my understanding, this means that the resin is pushed away, by the oxygen, from the areas that's being printed, so that the UV light only hits that part. Unlike SLA, where beams of UV light is projected to different areas to cure the resin, this CLIP does it so that the UV light is continuously projected on the whole area, and the oxygen determines where the resin is cured. When this is done in a continuous motion there won't be any layers although, in a way, the parts are still being built layer per layer.
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Looks really nice indeed! I wonder what those machines would cost :ugeek:
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incorporating your own Supports In your Design
oliver3d replied to bob-hepple's topic in Improve your 3D prints
That should work. However I don't think there needs to be that much fill in the support piece. You should be fine with about 50% less. Here's a link to some help about designing for 3d printing, where you can find out more about making supports, made by IRobertI: http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing -
At what stage of the print does it scrape? The first layers? Check your bed leveling and you Z-stop. It could also be that you're extruding too much, so that it bumps into previous layers because of the extra plastic.
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Hello! I haven't used Slic3r myself, so I can't help out that much, but I can still give my 2 cents. Have you checked this out?:http://wiki.ultimaker.com/Manual_First_Print (THIS IS FOR THE ULTIMAKER ORIGINAL NOT FOR ULTIMAKER 2!!) There's some help with setting it up for Sli3er.
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Just to give you an idea: I have my UMO in a full enclosure > http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9457-umo-enclosure/ The ambient temp inside is about 45C when printing, and this is without a fan to let the hot air out. So i'm wouldn't be too worried about the stepper motors.