iefbr14
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Posts posted by iefbr14
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si je comprends bien, on parle de Swap at Z (SAZ?) , pas de TAZ.
je connais pas, mais j'imagine qu'il s'agit de changer de Gcode a une altitude donnée, c'est ca ?
on fournit deux gcodes et on passe de l'un a l'autre suivant le layer en cours de print ?
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is it a well established fact that oiling the material has no adverse effects ?
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you may also use "tweak at Z" to lower your nozzle and bed's temp to 180/50 after the first layer.
start with values that gives you good adhesion (220/70) and then drop to cold print right after the first layer.
for small parts, be carefull with min layer time : set it to about 4 sec, and in the expert settings, set the minimum speed to the same speed as you print speed, with head lift enabled.
this will prevent your hotend from hovering for ages just above you print, melting the layer below.
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when the bed misses the stop switches and the motors try to push it through the frame, it makes a hell of a noise.
does it sound like that ?
http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/9096-failing-z-stop-the-sound-you-dont-want-to-ear/
if yes, try to check limiting switches connections (by pressing them by hand while homing) and position.
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essaie sans ventilo, avec un infill plus leger, et fais aussi gaffe a la température ambiante : faut essayer de garder l'ensemble de ta piece au chaud pendant le print.
et plus ta surface de base de base est grande, plus tu risque de décoller : pas étonnant que le robot te pose moins de problemes qu'une piece plus trapue.
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mon switch sur l'axe Z est collé au panneau arriere, mais la languette sur le support de plateau qui est supposée le déclencher est un peu en retrait.
résultat, ce soir, lors d'un AutoHome, elle ne touchait plus le Zswitch.
Je vous laisse découvrir comment ca se manifeste, histoire de reconnaitre le truc si ca vous arrive.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxs_Vcvk29D7RnlDY3ItUkt0WlU/view
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my upper (and only) Zwitch is a bit too close to rear panel on my UMO+, and the tab on the Z Stage is a bit too far..
recipe for problems, isntit ?
here is how it looks (and sounds) when your Zstage misses the ZStop
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bxs_Vcvk29D7RnlDY3ItUkt0WlU/view?usp=sharing
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je leur ai commandé 40m de PLA noir et jaune fluo.
ca semble etre du 2.85, assez constant
livré sans bobine quand on commande au mètre, livraison rapide.
c'est carrément pas cher, et ils font des remises importantes sur les quantites.
en cours de test sur le noir, et pour l'instant ca sort nickel,
aussi bien a 230°/100 mm/s pour une piece plate qu'a 190° / 30mm/s pour une autre avec un peu d'overhang
je crois que j'ai trouvé mon fournisseur pour le PLA 'ordinaire'
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leaks can cause these brown marks : you are cooking PLA on the Alu block / Nozzle, and the resulting goo drops on your print.
tightening will solve the problem, but by all means, DO IT WHILE HOTEND IS HOT
i broke may nozzle on day one by trying to tighten it cold after i noticed material oozing.
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@Electromu : Merci pour l'info. tu pourrais nous poster le lien, steuplé ?
sinon, pour un dépannage d'urgence, j'ai testé des buses de torche migmag : 10€ les 10 chez Casto, c'est pas ruineux et c'est dispo sans délais , MAIS :
- c'est du 0.8 (marqué 0.6 mais c'est le diametre du fil, pas de la buse)
- c'est un peu long (le ventilo lui souffle dessus)
- l'épaulement est ultra large (ca a tendance a ramasser ce qui dépasse sur le bed)
- le diametre interne est de 0.8 sur quasiment tout la longueur de la buse
il doit y avoir moyen de les adapter pour améliorer tout ca (style un coup de scie coté orifice pour ajuster la longueur + un coup de meule pour affiner la pointe)
c'est pas la buse de reve, mais j'ai réussi a imprimer avec..
en attendant qu'une vraie buse arrive a pied par la Chine, ca peut dépanner.
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dans tous les cas également, jettes un oeil a la view "layers" avant de lancer ton print, ca peut t'aider a comprendre une eventuelle difference dans les temps d'impressions (une tonne de retractations, par exemple) et t'eviter de lancer des impressions vouées d'avance a l'echec (style des parties trop fines par rapport a ton wall thickness qui vont faire que cura s'abstiendra tout betement de les inclure dans le path..)
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chez moi (UMO+), c'est clairement du a de legeres fuites au niveau du heatblock alu, soit en dessous a la jonction avec la buse, soit au dessus (et la le filament a le temps de bien carboniser avant de couler le long de la buse)
la premiere fois que j'ai remarqué ca (le premier jour, en fait), j'ai décidé de remedier et de serrer un bon coup...
ben j'ai pété le filetage de la buse dans le heater et ca a été une brave merde pour le sortir de la.
il parait qu'un moyen simple de reduire ces fuites quand on imprime en PLA, c'est d'imprimer un peu d'ABS avec un exces de flow, pour provoquer la fuite : du coup, on a de l'abs pas trop liquide quand on imprime aux temperatures PLA qui colmate les breches.
j'ai pas essayé, pour l'instant j'essuie de temps en temps avec un coton tige.
... et quand je reserre la buse, c'est a chaud et TOUT DOUCEMENT
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so it is 0.8.... thanks A LOT for solving my underextrusion problem !
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oh ok got it now.
kind of 'bridging effect' on top of the support, right ?
and so, print faster with thinner layer helps... makes sense.
thanks
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not sure i understabd what you mean..
could you post actual pics of problematic layers being printed ?
maybe a short vid including a few layers before and after ?
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when it works, don't fix it
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not sure how seasonned you are, so please dont mind if i tell you what you already know :
printed parts are composed of
- a shell (the periphery)
- a top and a bottom cap
- an interior
the shell is drawn with continous lines, it's thickness is determined by the Shell Thickness parameter
in your settings, it's set to 0.8 , that is, 2 lines drawn with you 0.4 nozzle
the top/bottom caps are made with a tight cross hatched pattern, one direction at each layer.
how many layers are used depends of
- the Layer Height parameter, 0.20 in your settings
- the Bottom/Top Thickness parameter, 0.8
that means that you should see 4 layers being laid when printing top/bottom caps
the interior is filled with a loose square pattern. how loose it is determined by the infill parameter (25% for you)
it means that 25% of the surface of an interior slice will be covered in plastic
the support is something that gets added to the model in order to provide foundations to what would otherwise be printed mid air. i dont see any part needing support in the model you show.
so, with these informations in mind, how would you describe your problem ?
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are you talking about the infill ?
are these strings like crappy leftovers, or nicely aligned fully drawn lines ?
could you post a pic of the object while it's being printed ?
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pizza
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Toppings
myriad toppings are used on pizzas, including, but not limited to:-
Anchovy
- .....
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Anchovy
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.....
It might also simply be, that the "strings" of the mesh are thinner than your shell thickness x 2, in which case cura won't include them in the slice...
why x2 ? isn't cura able to decide that some parts of the model are to be printed as a single pass walls ?
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i hammered it too, with a piece of wood between the hammer and the gear, and with VERY GENTLE STROKES (took ages, but as i read about people breaking their's before, i was extra cautious)
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mmm.. even at a rather modest baudrate (115200), that's a bit more than 14Kb/sec.
That would mean more than 3 minutes to transfer the Robot sliced at 0.1 (=~2.5Mb)
really long indeed, though not nearly as long as printing it, but i get your point.
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or at least, allow the ulticontroller to expose the inserted SD as an USB storage device when connected to a computer. that would be enough
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not sure it this is Cura related or firmware. it probably requires collaboration from both sides, but it would be soooo cool :
the hability to save the Gcode that cura just generated to the SD card that is inserted in the UltiController.
that would allow to have the advantages of printing from SD without the hassle of mounting and dismounting the card from UMO to computer and back.
it probably requires more work from the firmware side than from Cura's, as from cura's point of view, that's not different from direct printing, just need to provide a filename and that's it. just send Gcode through USB.
what do you think ? wouldn't this be usefull ?
Under extrusion? Help me out please
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
with thicker layers, more material have to be fed to the extruder, so some underextrusion is something that can be expected when printing thick.
slowing down may help