iefbr14

Check how it renders in cura's layer view. i had really strange slicing issue with cura lately, namely the 5mm Qbert stairs calibration model was rendered with rightmost stairs 3mm wide instead of 5, and i finally realized it was sliced this way by cura ! as a rule of thumb, always check the layer view before printing : maybe your printer prints just what it has been told to.

and be prepared to suffer when you'll have to build the feeder :]

though not mentioned in the documentation, 4 springs are provided with the UMO+ kit. they look like clothespin springs, and are intended to be used as belt tensioners. they are indeed quite effective, as they provide dynamic tension, but also pretty difficult to assemble (some blood stains on my slider blocks). i'm not really sure of how they should be mounted, but here is what i did, and it seems to fit quite well this way : place them on the side on the belt that is not inserted in the sliding block, with the barrel on the smooth side of the belt, and the arms on the dented side. be sure to place them so they dont touch the pulley when the slider block is in the opposite corner : you should place then symmetrically vs the corresponding block. the easy way to know they are placed well is to either center the block and the spring, or to move the block to one side and put the spring on the other side, but though that makes it easy to know where to place the spring, it makes it harder to actually place it (less slack or less space available), so it's better to move the block off from the center, and to put the spring with same offset in the opposite direction. check afterwards that they dont touch the pulleys when you move the block from one side to the other. if they do touch, you are allowed to cry a little bit, and then unmount them and try again.

check this : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:89034 Bed Leveling Script for Ultimaker by greengiant83, published May 15, 2013 Description This gcode will position the print head at each of the four corners (with room to get to the bed adjustment screws) pausing for a button press between each so that you can adjust the bed level. It is pretty much the same thing as the bed leveling wizard in Cura except that you don't have to connect the printer to a computer to run it

Des que t'as commence a imprimer t'as du plastique fondu partout : à partir de la faut faire les manipulations à chaud sinon c'est la galère.

@pascal : bavures latérales et mini éfondrements : oui, j'ai ca. je vais essayer de tomber un peu la température, merci pour l'info. j'ai aussi le bed levelling qui est un peu a l'ouest (les ressorts se compriment un chouia quand la buse est sur la piece, je dois avoir le bed un poil trop haut) @fabio : pour nettoyer le filetage de ton bloc alu, démonte ta tete et sors le bloc, fixe le dans un truc (un étau de table, avec des petits bouts de bois pour isoler thermiquement ton bloc des machoires) replace le heater et la sonde dans leur trous, et fais un "preheat PLA". quand t'es a 210, tu peux facilement enfiler un long ecrou m6 dans le filetage virer le plastique qui te gene. gaffe avec l'ecrou, il va monter a 210° lui aussi, va pas le tourner avec tes petits doigts roses

i'll try to wrap it in kapton (but i have to order some, and my 'official' nozzle will hopefully arrive before the tape) i think that the termal loss may be is not that important, as the internal diameter is 0.6 all the way down (so, more mass, more thermal inertia) i just noticed that the springs under the bed are a bit compressed when the nozzle hoovers over the part : my underextrusion may be due to poor bed levelling (to close to the nozzle).

Même pas la peine en fait, avec une épaisseur de mur de 1.2 ça sort nickel (et de toute façon j'ai pas de colonne de perçage)

having missing parts shipped when you already waited 10 weeks to get you printer is not a realistic option. you really should try to lay on the side of customer satisfaction and ship a handfull of spare nuts and bolts, instead of incuring the odd of sending to few (i got missing parts too, btw, it looks like almost everybody is in this case) and YES, you should label parts !! building this printer makes you go through a bunch of wild guesses (as in : do they want me to use the plastic or metal 25mm bolts ?)

i just ordered a pizza. it comes with built in anchovies and tastes better than whatever you can print with your UM84++

j'ai quand meme comme un 'leger' soucis de sous extrusion, je pense... je continue les tests et je vous tiens au courant.

yes. and my printer finally arrived (about 10 weeks after i placed my order) they'll drive you nuts, but they wont screw you.

I received my UMO+ tuesday by 14H, assembly finished Wednesday 20H (yeah, i'm not fast) and by Wednesday 22H, i broke the nozzle in the heater block : as i noticed some oozing, I decided to tighten a bit, but it seems that i tighten too much : snap i ordered a spare nozzle , but i also searched for a bypass, and today i'm printing with this : you get ten of these for 10€ at "CASTORAMA" (it's a french store like 'HOME DEPOT'). I dont know exactly what they are intended to be used for (something about soldering) , but they do the job : the M6 thread is about the same length as on my now defunct nozzle, the hole is 0.6 mm wide (exists in 0.8 and 1.0 mm too ) the internal diameter is 0.6, too : there is only a small cone near the tail of the nozzle, but it looks like it works anyway, with maybe a bit of underextrusion. i'll replace it with the official spare part as soon as i'll receive it, but while i wait, i'm really happy to be able to use my printer with that !

Petit résumé : Imprimante recue mardi vers 14H, finie de monter mercredi vers 20H, et buse cassée autours de 22H : J'ai remarqué un écoulement a la jonction nozzle - heater, en fait ca venait d'au dessus, le guide de dépannage me dit de "serrer - mais attention, ca risque de peter" : j'ai serré, et j'ai pas du faire assez attention : ca a pété. donc je me retrouve avec un troncon de filetage coincé dans le bloc de chauffe alu, noyé dans le plastique, et une buse tronquée. youpie. j'ai commandé de quoi reparer chez UM (nozzle, bloc alu, jonction cuivre, manchon teflon.. histoire d'amortir les frais de ports), et puis dodo. Aujourdh'ui, en attendant que ca arrive, j'ai essayé de trouver une solution de dépannage, et j'ai trouvé ca : c'est au rayon fer a souder, 10€ le pack de 10 chez casto. j'y connais rien en fers a souder, donc je sais pas vraiment a quoi c'est supposé servir, mais ca a un filetage M6 (comme celle de l'UMO+), avec un trou de 0.6mm en sortie.. c'est pas idéal: déja, c'est du 0.6, ensuite le diametre interne, c'est du 0.6 aussi, sauf un cone assez court en debut de filetage, en enfin,elle sont un peu longues (25mm)... mais la, j'imprime avec, et ca marche. j'ai pas résolu mon probleme de bavage, j'ai encore rien sorti de bien joli, mais au moins, au lieu de me ronger les dents en attendant ma buse a 15€ piece + 12€ de port, je peux continuer a découvrir mon joujou.

received yesterday, doodle3d in the box

no it's in france already. i stick to my coat of paint hypothesis

mine is being "processed" by DHL for 4 hours now. i believe they'r giving it some kind of coating or maybe varnishing isntit ?

gizmo, does your avatar look like a shower cabin on purpose ?

well, while it's in france, dont bother to make it travel further and send it to me

Hi Sander. Could you please provide tracking informations for order n° 14.009.610 (No R number because of a glitch with my order that makes it not linked to my web account ) it was supposed to be sent on Friday 12/12 thanks !

j'envoie des Mp partout, et la je commence a poster sur reddit aussi. ca commence a etre assez dur de rester poli.

je suis vert....

oh, i thought Marlin was the default firmware. i'm (hopefully) about to receive my UMO+ , wont it ship with marlin installed ?

oh, yes ! please! the "slice now" button.

le problème de rétractation de l'infill est pas supposé se manifester par un infill moche, mais par des murs qui se déforment a cause de la traction vers l’intérieur. il est supposé se manifester d'avantage sur les pièces de grandes dimensions avec un haut pourcentage d'infill.