henri

I would like to upgrade to the UM3, but I use more than one nozzle size on my UM2+. I have received an offer for my UM2+, and would really like to know if there is any plan to offer cores with different nozzle size. A couple of new cores would be expensive, but might be worth it. Since dual extrusion took 3 years to arrive, the plans would need to be definite, with an estimated time. It seems that it is an easy thing to manufacture.

Look at the Endurance laser engraver. I think that with attention to safety features it could be added, and the higher power version might even cut 1.5 mm wood or acrylic, which would suit me. I am keen for someone with more engineering ability than me to try, so that they can tell me how to do it

I gained a lot of courage after successfully upgrading my UM2 with my own somewhat clumsy hands. A lot of credit goes to Ultimakers excellent instructions. I am reading a lot about the Endurance laser engraver. It would really suit me to be able to cut 1.5 mm acrylic, which the 3.5 Watt version might do. I would only do it if some benefactor posted instructions as detailed as the ultimaker assembly and upgrade manuals. Actually I think that Ulimaker or Fabrc8 should try to resell the object, or do their own, which would make the UM machine utterly more attractive.

I would like to download a manual for Cura2.1 to read offline. Is there a way?

Thanks to both replies.

After I installed my Olsson block from Fbrc8 (with adventures) my Ultimaker 2 hit a sweet spot and is performing particularly well. I printed a tapered cylindrical pillar using 0.06mm layers and really cannot see the layer lines, so cancelled my idea of a pseudo lathe to rotate it in order to smooth it with sandpaper. However I noticed that the circular cross section is actually a polygon. Difficult to count, but maybe 40 sides, and this is just visible. Is this a function of Cura, or the drawing software, and can it be improved? The upgrade. What I learned: Replacing the Teflon piece was a big factor. Of course I should have known if I had been paying attention. Do not go out and buy a torque wrench and apply 1+ N-M. It is too much. The Olsson plastic one gives you less than half as much, which is plenty. Of course you have to print it. Either do that with your old setup, or screw in the new nozzle hand tight, and then tweak really gently with a 10 cm or so long 7mm spanner.

Every first Saturday of the month at 10 am a dozen or so of us meet as a Cnc offshoot of the Portland model engineers. If you want to try it, I can arrange an invite.

Bit late reply, as I do not check the forum routinely. I am in Portland Oregon, ( not maine or Isle of Wight) and have an Ultimaker 2 that I have just improved by some replacemants. I would be happy to share experiences or make something.

The free version of Netfabb does it very easily

I am buying Ultimaker filament from Fbrc8 to ensure reliable material. They have the neat trick of giving free postage for orders over $75, which is just about two reels, plus they ship promptly, if not instantaneously

I have been trying it out for them on my iPad while on vacation and had a Google hangout with one of their developers. This is the first ipad cad app I have managed to do anything with. I have great hopes that this will be the solution for the hobbyist who is ignored by Solidworks. It will take some time, but I have confidence in their approach.

Got a page not found error from the link

These are most valuable posts. If you see my topic on the ISense scanner, I have to agree that the resolution achieved is not really quite adequate. A friend has ordered the fuel3d scanner so I will be able to try it out.

I have uploaded some images to my gallery, but have been unable to find any way to indicate how you can view them.the editing functions do not seem to exist and the help and forum search are useless

I have now to amend the complaint above. I tried out the structure scanning software,after finding out that it worked on the iSense, and it worked and looked good. I also found another one called Model cluster, and it worked well too. All these three look a bit similar, as though the underlying engine or algorithm were the same. To close the loop, I went back and retried the cubify isense software, and now it works just as well, and also with a similar appearance.i think there must have been an automatic update. Later on in the process the isense software has some useful features. So come back, all is forgiven. I take back the implied criticism.

Had this issue and noted that the clip did not adequately immobilize the wire bundle. It needed a little black tape. Double check in case there are more out there like that

I'm not all that technical, so take that into account. Mine does not seem to retract nearly that much. You can go to advanced menu and move material until it comes out before a new print. If you use more than one line of skirt, or a brim, the material will advance before your object starts to print.

Replying to Visu-AL Yes it is a concidence

My printer seems optimised for .1 mm, which I find extremely satisfactory. You said " if calibrated". Can you point me to instructions or profiles to do this?

If you need STLs or even prints, let me know.

Monika.. My printer remains busy. My other hobby is clock design, and I am printing an ambitious plastic clock, using ideas from John(longitude) Harrison My other enthusiasm ( of many) is the Chinese ceramic figures called Luohans, and there are good Stls on a site called scan the world, which they did for me. I make pill boxes with initials deeply incised in the lids for gifts.

The way I did it for pill boxes with initials incised deep in the lid. I opened up Word, or any word processor. Set up the letters in a font I chose, really big, and took a screen shot. I opened up a cad program, Draftsight, and put the image in as a guide. I drew around the outlines with a combination of lines, arcs, and optionally splines, making sure the path was closed. Saved as a Dwg or DXF. Now I opened up a 3d modelling program, Freecad will do, imported the drawing and used it to cut an extruded shape.

When it came out I bought an isense scanner, I would never have thought of buying a cube printer, even though they seem to be good machines, I join the rest of the world in disliking proprietary cartridges of plastic filament. I later found out that the Structure sensor appears to have the same capability at a lower price. I thought possibly the software might have been part of the difference in price. Now I know, with a mild sense of resentment, that I was wrong. I struggled mightily to get any usable results from the scanner, thinking that the difficulty was my own clumsiness in rotating around the the person I was trying to scan. I was resigned to the situation when something came along and changed it completely. A software app appeared called itSeez3d. It comes from Nizhny Novgorod ,which seems an exotic location, although I read that lots of computer activity is centered there. This free software is just infinitely superior. I made a usable scan within 10 minutes on my second try. The next scan, which my wife made of me was worth a trial print using the high-resolution format. The minor imperfections on the surface look as though I have been modeled by the sculptor Jacob Epstein. This totally changes my relationship with my purchase. I sent a note of appreciation to the site and got a polite acknowledgment from Alexandr. Henri

Running 15.1 on Windows 7, I do not have the problem

I think you would be much better off reprogramming your cerebral cortex to metric. Mixing the data between the two systems will invite oopsies.