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klausz

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  1. OptoPI is a good enhancement to be able to transfer GCode files to UM and UM2. Also it is good to be able to monitor, record and even partially control the print. On the other side, Ultimaker and Ultimaker GCode has a lot of features. The GCode is mainly independent from the Material. Also I am able to change settings during the printing process. Would it be possible to integrate all these features much better ? If this has not been discussed altogether in one thread we should start (otherwise add a link and we close this thread). It was mentioned Ultimaker is developing a new board. If possible this should be included in the discussion, too. ((A final answer or request and solution could be to call all the Ultimaker program features through an API directly from OctoPI (and similar Programs). Well, how can Gina and others be included in the discussion if we have good suggestions ?)) Lets start from the basics. There is a CAD program. For sure we will have different ones. The result is a STL file. Up to this I don't see possible changes in the process for big improvements. Then we normally start Cura (Pronterface etc) as slicing software which delivers after some tests, changes of settings etc after 5-15 minutes the GCode. (When Using Octoprint I am already limited as I cant use UltiGcode). Now I put the GCode on the printer (manually through SDCard, wireless, maybe even from far away). The aready prepared printer starts to print. With direct access to the printer I am able to change settings, could be able to change filament, speed etc. But i cannot see from a distant place what happens. A webcam would not be enough. When using Octoprint, printing has also started. For some time, someone had to be near the printer to prepare the hardware before printing started. After I have started, i am able to monitor the print. But I am much more limited compared to an SDPrint on the UM & UM2. I can change temperature and fan speed.But i am not able to change filament, speed at all etc. As a side issue, when Using OctoPrint the statistics like Usage Hours will not be updated. Personally I would like to be able to control all whats already possible with direct SDPrint through Octoprint (it could be a similar software but has to be open source). Even more like added on sensors, additonally added hardware etc. Lets start the discussion whats already available, what should be improved and what can be done. If there is a general agreement we should try to make a suggestion for a future process standard and try to convince software developers, hardware producers etc.
  2. Mit OctoPi und einem RasPi ist der Aufwand eines permanent eingeschalten PC überschaubar. Auch sollte es zukünftig Standard sein dass ich direkt vom PC (nach dem slicen mit Cura) an den Drucker übertrage und den Druck mit allen Features (UltiGcode) überwache, steuere und ggf auch eingreifen kann. Das waren die Visionen eines Prof Scheer und anderer Ende der 80er Jahre (CIM). Vorgehen: Erstelle eine Konstruktionszeichnung und auf Knopfdruck wird das Teil erstellt. Auch im Home Bereich sind wir schon fast dort. Ich schau mal nach einem Thread (oder mach einen) mit 'Better integration of Cura, Octopi and UltiGcode and others'. Wenn Ultimaker ein separates Board macht ist das Riskio eines auseinanderlaufens der Entwicklungen vorhanden. Andererseits, also Open Source könnte es eine enorme Chance bedeuten. Mit Pronterface habe ich schon gearbeitet. Das hatte Adrian Bowyer in seinen Workshops bei dem Bau der Drucker (Reprappro.com, Mendel & Huxley) in 2012 zusammen mit Jean Marc Giacione standarmässig verwendet. Das lief ganz gut. Ultimaker hat viele technische Verbesserungen (Teile werden nur in z-Richtung bewegt, stabiles Gehäuse, Software, UltiGcode) und da will zumindest ich nicht weg.
  3. Unfortunately I have to agree with Chris (titanoid). When printing Taulman bridge it did not stick and got stuck everywhere because I was not at home to stop it. When I tried to remove the filament within the print head, I destroyed the temperature sensor (maybe I was not careful enough. Nevetheless I was not possible to take the temp sensor out and also I had to drill the remaining parts of the temp sensor out of the hole (iGo3D delivered the temp sensor very quick). Finally I assembled everything. Now the machine is back working. (Maybe later I will add some comments on improvements, so that it is more easy to exchange the temp sensor.) Coming back to the head paste. I liked i very much. The print quality had improved a lot. Not being able to remove the sensors anymore is unacceptable. Looking for other solutions, there could be a calibration or a different copper paste (there is something with copper for brakes in the car - I have no idea if this should be considered). Re temp sensor, in case you break it. Before you exchange put it back in the hole and try. Even when the temp sensor is still working, but the sensor is outside the hole, there is an error message. (Possibly for an activated heater without temp increase the program will conclude the sensor is broken). The steel cylinder is not really necessary. Having time I will look for another heater or even better for a complete printhead (all the connectors should be near the print head for a quick exchange). Also sorry from my side for recommending this 'glue-ing' heat paste. If there is no solution right now we should look for another solution.
  4. Bei mir ist es schon eine Weile her. Trotz ca 4 Wochen Wartezeit auf den UM2 habe ich hinterher erfahren, direkt bei Ultimaker wäre es - trotz anderslautender Angaben - auch nicht schneller gegangen. Auch wenn das Gerät kleinere Macken hat (meist selbst reparabel), das warten lohnt.
  5. Finally its working. But I was not really aware in the needed Cura settings change and had the same problem as Moshzu. Thanks to pm_dude. I would have preferred the Cura/Ultimaker logic where the material and temperature is not in the gcode. Also i missed the flexibility in reducing the speed and other settings during print. (Well, a change is not possible on the browser and I did not want to try on the printer during printing). On the others side its fascinating to have control from far away and also to get pictures. In a few weeks or months there should be more experience in using the software and also knowledge about software add-ons. We are lucky that Gina made it and the this Spanish mobile phone company sponsors it.
  6. "1. Could someone provide me with a list of spare parts that are needed for this system? Nozzles, heaters... anything that a typical user finds is a much needed spare" -> 2x PTFE Coupler (or get 1x Hot end pack and 1xPTFE coupler) after around 1100 hours of printing with the UM2 and knowing what I know now only the PTFE coupler fails "2. Which material is easier/ more forgiving to build with, PLA or ABS? " -> PLA "3. Are there any must do upgrades that should be done prior to setting this up in the school. " -> #1 if there is temperature variation and/or underextrusion, have a look on this link: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6517-um2-temperature-vary/ If this works well, I can imagine there is no need to change to iRoberts extruder -> #2 it could be resoldering is necessary but I am sure you are capable to fix it. Re software, have a look at openscad, too.
  7. Have a look at the nozzle temperature during printing. It should not vary more than +/- 1 degree celsius/Kelvin. Also check if the filament roll is rotating easily means there is little tension on the filament before going into the feeder. Thats something i am actually monitoring, after getting rid of the temp variation.
  8. For all the printers with problems I would also recommend to watch the printhead temperature. -> Tune -> Temperature. At the print start it is varying a few degrees. But on a proper machine, during printing it is normally exactly on the set temperature or one degree below (-1/0). Starting with this condition we should look for improvements. Maybe we should make a survey on the temperature variation during print. We should also consider the toyoda idea. As soon there is a problem the machine stops. (Later they went ahead with the name Toyota as Company name). Invented by http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sakichi_Toyoda named: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autonomation In one way it is good that the 3D printers are still fascinating simple. A broken sensor won't stop the machine. Its not there. And if there is a failure on the machine normally we can repair it ourselves. In some areas like the feeder even a simple mechanical recognition or a sensor, visualizing the force needed to push the filament through pipe and nozzle could help. If these 'jidoka' issues are interesting we should start a separate thread as this is for the feeder.
  9. I have added Xilence X5 (according to manual) which reduced the temperature range to +/- 3 degree celsius but normally to +/-1 degree celsius (as Chris reported). I also changed the nozzle (nozzle heater block) but still had problems. Finally I opened again and changed the hot end isolator and the PTFE coupler. Nearly for sure it was the PTFE coupler. Now I have stable temperatures and it seems the difficulties are solved. Using Taulman Bridge i was able to go up to the recommended 240 degree celsius (as there is nearly no risk that the temperature will go higher which causes problems) and the prints are at a quality level I never had before. :smile:
  10. The extruder is within 1-2 minutes at 260C. For the heatbed 10 minutes is a realistic figure. To speed it up, as soon you start to prepare for new print (even before tidying up the glass etc) put the glass bed manually to the printing temperature. The nozzle 20 degrees below printing temperature. Then it starts fast.
  11. Thanks for the very good advise with conductive paste. So when there is underextrusion this could be a reason, too. I ordered the XILENCE X5 High Performance Wärmeleitpaste (on Ebay because they decided to pay taxes compared to Amazon). ----- Lets close this thread and go ahead with the original one (sorry I checked, but did not find it when I started this one). -> http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6517-um2-temperature-vary/ @Chris, nochmals Dankeschön für die gute Recherche und Anleitung. Grüße, von Nähe Bodensee.
  12. It should only be considered, if it can be done easy. Either starting from the back or being able to define the printing sequence.
  13. When watching the temperature of the nozzle it was set to 234 degree celsius. While printing, during the normal print speed (35..50mm/s, 0.4mm nozzle), the temperature went down to 224 and up to 244 degree celsius. Especially on very sensitive materials it could help when this temperature is much more stable. Not 20 maybe 5 to 10 degrees Celsius/Kelvin in total. Any idea or suggestion ? Low print speed will not help as there is the need for some materials to print a minimum quantity per second.
  14. I had 4 very similar bricks each with a length of 12cm, a height of 4cm and a width of 3cm. As the total print took around 20 hours and trying to reduce the risk I printed one piece after the other (also because of new material). Looking from the front of the ultimaker 2 the pieces were behind each other. Latest after the 2nd print there was a need to tidy up the nozzle. Therefore I used the pause functionality. Unfortunately when I did this, the printhead took the direct way and crashed against the 2nd piece that had just been finished. It seems there is no option in Cura to define the sequence in which the parts are printed. Even when changing the position it seems the part in the front is printed first. Wouldn't it be good to start the print from the back and move to the front ? Not only this would avoid the risk of a printhead crash. This would also allow the user to see the parts better. Or just to lift the printhead (bring the bed down). When printing right now I only see the 1st part and the other parts, printed afterwards, will be hidden behind the 1st part. Further with this setup I will not be able to use the pause functionality. As a poll, lets make a survey and ask how the printing sequence should be. (Maybe there are also other reasons or there are solutions how this can be done already.)
  15. Starting with a Rapman in 2010, a Reprap Huxley in 2012, the Ultimaker 2 is my 3rd printer. It is the first machine where I can start a job go to bed and have a good chance that the 10 or 20 hours job will deliver the final product. Still it has to be improved. But after 3 months I can say the completion or success rate with good PLA is around 90%. Depending on the colors its between 85 and 95%. With Taulman Bridge it is still difficult to have a reproducible quality and avoid warping. But it went up from 40% to now maybe 75% and it has to be above 90%. Otherwise I will not use this material in the future.
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