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yodajammies

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  1. Thanks for the advice guys. I wanted to try to print this monstrous thing in one go to proof my support settings, otherwise I would have split it through the mouth. Yeah, acetone can clean up a lot of things in ABS but the nose and chin are pretty brutal. I'm losing practically all of my detailing in those areas. Nick - I used 25% infill to get the higher density algorithm with a layer height of 100 microns and a top/bottom thickness of .8mm.
  2. Hi guys, I'm having a little trouble dialing in my settings for support material using Cura that perhaps you could chime in on. Using support type "Everywhere", Cura puts support under the chin, inside the mouth, under the eyebrows, etc. which I assume is making it possible to print this piece in an upright orientation. My settings for the support are: Material: ABS Overhang angle - 30 deg Fill amount - 15% Distance X/Y - .7mm Distance Z - .15mm As you can see from the photos I'm getting some pretty rough scaring at the interface between my support structure and the model. Any adv
  3. Try a product called perma-wet. I use it in a lot of sculptures to give that "fresh out of the water" look. http://www.monstermakers.com/product/perma-wet-gloss-coating.html
  4. I ordered mine direct and it was shipped from the Memphis base. Showed up exactly a week after I ordered it. As far as correspondence goes, I got a reply from the US branch about 2x faster than from the mothership. Four weeks seems a little excessive for no reply. I might send them a follow up or call. My .02 Good luck!
  5. I ran a small test at 24, then one at 25%. It looks like 25% will work the best for me after seeing the radical difference between the two. I also slowed down the infill speed just a bit and bumped the nozzle temperature up to 220. 225 is a little too hot and I'm seeing some distortion in my vertical walls. A couple more test prints and I think I'll have this puppy dialed in just about perfectly for PLA. Next up, ABS.
  6. You guys were spot on with your diagnosis. I printed the upper tooth palette with a higher infill and a few more top layers and the problem almost completely vanished. Go team ultimaker!
  7. I have a similar issue to this so I guess I'll threadjack since TinyDancer has his problem solved... I've checked for clogs/obstructions (nada) and it looks like the issue is in the feeder motor itself. I can heat the heads and advance material through so that it extrudes, but if I try to run the material any faster than a snail's pace, the motor skips backward (to protect from grinding). I've read up on the adjustable pressure feature of this part but my question is: Which way is which? With the white indicator all the way at the bottom that is suppose to denote "high pressure." Does
  8. As much as I like napping on a nice soft pillow, this is not what I had in mind when it comes to printing. I've read up on the troubleshooting guide (http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#pillowing) and it looks like pillowing is mainly caused by: 1. Cooling fans not on 2. Not enough top surface layers In my part I've got the fans on 100% all the way to the end of the print and my bottom/top thickness is set to .6mm (with a layer height of .07). This would give me ~8 layers of top surface. Any suggestions on how to tighten up the quality on t
  9. I just purchased the first (of hopefully many!) Ultimakers to replace our Dimension sst1200. It crapped the bed last week and we were staring down the barrel of a 4k$ repair cost for a machine already way out of date! It was prime time to put Bessie out to pasture and find something new. I'm pretty handy with CAD/CAM software as it related to CNC mills/lathes, but this will be my first foray into "tinker with it" 3d printing. Just browsing the forums I've learned WAY more than I ever did running the "professional" grade machine. Any novice tips / sub-forums I should read up on to prepar
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