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kuno

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  • Country
    CH
  • Industry
    (Product) design
    Engineering
  1. the difference between cheap and inexpensive or (cost efficient) ;-) I usually go for inexpensive just my 2c kuno
  2. Hi All, After getting the loose filament from Stefan I was thinking about how to pack it and how at the same time how to protect it from dust. And here we are (not the cheapest solution) I ordered cardboard rolls cut to correct length and stapled cover on one side. So I can stack the loose filament and use the 'drum' behind the printer when the filament is in use. unfortunately these covers do not have a rim, as smaller covers have, so I had to cut off the edge and grind some of the cardboard inner side to make stacking easy. Inner diameter of 282 mm is almost perfect for diamond age fila
  3. I just maintained my UM2 and I would like to have a lubrication run in the maintenenace menu. e.g. print head all at the back -> clean the axes --> done --> print head slowly moves to the other end --> clean the axes --> apply a tiny drop of oil close to the guides --> move the head slowly to the other end --> apply another tiny little drop --> move the head a few times nice and slow from end to end. I hate moving the head manually against all the belts and motors. OK. more a firmware issue, could also be nice in UM2 kuno
  4. Mine was definitely also bent intentionally during production, but too far to the 'safe-side'. As there is no menu within the maintenance to drive the head to the rightmost position, the 'fine-tuning' is not so straight forward. might make sense to include some sort of 'fake' design in cura, where the print head can be moved to the position limits. Appat from loading the part again and letting the printer move the head to the far right, I do not see any way how I could check if the 'tongue-tuning' avoids now the collisison at the right wall. I did not really like to move the head manually to
  5. I adjusted the left home position 'tongue' of the home switch and now the head moves all the way to the left leaving around 1 mm to the side plate. at the right hand side the same now and no collisison anymore. looks like the holes to mount the switch are 0.5 mm to 1 mm too far to the left, so the tongue needs some bending. without bend, the switch is not activated and the motor dirves the head like crazy until the error message apears on the display. kuno P.S. head size adjustments I might do this weekend P.P.S. until now I turned the objects 45° like mentioned above (works for some objec
  6. I will search for this setting and see how it works. So i will seet the print head size to 20 mm x 20 mm and watch how it will shrink inside the UM2 :cool: So far I have not been playing around with these settings, but seems it is the time to start doing it. kuno
  7. thanks, will try this and voiding warranty ;-)
  8. Hi all, I printed (finally without problems) a part that is 220 mm x 40 mm. Cura put it in the middle of the print bed (left to right orientation of the 220 mm). I use 5 lines of brim to get the PLA stick nicely to the plate (no glue at all). In cura everything looked perfect and printable. Now the print started, left hand side of the UM2 everything fine, but right hand side the print head was forced into the side wall, making the belts/motors skip about 2 mm (I assume the belts were forced to skip one tooth). Is there any way I can set the right hand limit, so the printhead is not collidin
  9. In my initial feedback I mentioned not really to care about a bigger print space, this has changes as I am currently getting to the limits, so if the print space could be inceased in one (horizontal) direction, that would be great as I use it currently heavily for prototyping. Ideal horizontal would be to allow 19" prints (mock up front panels for rack mount equipment), so 500 mm x 250 mm horizontal I would appreaciate, vertical I have not even come close to any limits so far. kuno
  10. Thanks fo the feedback did not know this about the ceramics, too bad then...... sw control for the fan: I would not mind to swap light and fan connection as the light could be on off only. I know, SW needs to know that this has been swapped............ kuno
  11. There is some room for improvement if areas are filled. I sometimes have the impression it is a little bit chaotic, as the print head starts to draw the lines and then suddenly goes to another area to fill and moves back again. might need some mathematical elaboration on this to fill areas with the least possible head movements. if fill is set to e.g. 20% as it is as default, it would be nice to be able to set the origin. I have noticed that depending on how the fill is located in the print some fills are erally a good mesh, some are close to useless. At the same time it would be nice to be a
  12. My feedback (I am only using the UM2 now for a few weeks). better guidance for the table (e.g. 3 of those spindles, connected with a tooth belt?). Option for self-leveling motors outside the printing room (keep things separated) bigger print room (would be nice but not a killer criteria for me) dual extrusion/feeder, e.g. different color, different diameter, but same material sw control of the little noisy fan (swith it off when the head is not heated/cold) teflon insulater --> ceramics insulator (when it works for skark plugs, it should be good enough for UM) option for an eclosure
  13. As everybody is looking for sketches and ideas to keep the climate inside under control, I do share my skethes and images here too. see here https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dust-and-climat-cover. unfortunaltey I am still not allowed to uplaod images here. use at your own risk and feel free to midify, especially if the material is not available im 6 mm thickness kuno
  14. Jonny, I added the images of the first trial of the cover on the printer, hope this supports your imagination for the "aha". more images to follow when the finishing is done. kuno
  15. Hi, yeah the sketches are missing some views as it is not CAD created, difficult to make them. I have updated the youmagine with some first images. I got the acrylic glass pre-cut at coop, bought one panel of 5 mm acrylic and they cut it, had to alter some of the measurements due to the 5 mm but was easy. I will update tomorrow, when I continue, hope not to forget images before I do the fininshing of the parts, so you get the idea. kuno
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