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Everything posted by printerfan

  1. I bought my printer used. Maybe that's the issue, but I've continued to have issues even after completely replacing the hotend with all official parts. I'm going to try the shims, soak the nozzle in acetone, and install a new PTFE bowden tube. If that doesn't work I'm just going to buy a Prusa i3 MK2.
  2. I will try this, but my coupler at least the top portion (I cant view bottom until I reassembly and clear out the PLA that has it stuck to the barrel) does not look deformed after disassembly. If the coupler is fine, what else could be causing my underextrusion and clogging?
  3. I cooled the UMO nozzle to 90 degrees before pulling. I can try it again at a lower temp once I set it up again. As for the groove, there is no groove for 2-3 mm on the way around once you get past the groove at the tip. However, after 2-3 mm there is a groove on both sides, but I'm not sure if that's an artifact from the stretching if the nozzle temp was 5C too high. As for the assembly, I never put much thought into it. I typically hand screwed the barrel and nozzle on until it got tight, then I would gently use a wrench to tighten it more. I never used shims in the print head, but I've also never seen anyone else do this, yet many seem to be doing fine without them? I'm open to try them and will send amedee a message to see if he has a picture. Would you recommend I switch to a different hotend given I've had problems with my UMO since day 1 and after replacing it with new offical hotend? If so, what hotend would you recommend?
  4. I have not been using the full enclosure the past 2 months because I've been using PLA and have had to meticulously watch the start of the print to make sure the initial layers were fine because I was experiencing a lot of failed prints due to underextrusion. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by separation for the board? Are you asking if I raised the printer up to provide additional air to reach the electronics under the printer? If so yes, I have sound dampening feet attached to the printer that raises it by 1.5-2 inches. I already disassembled the hotend, but I stupidly did not do an atomic pull before disassembly, so there is a ton of PLA in the barrel, so the hotend coupler is stuck to it... I am going to reassemble it and try to clear it out. I took some pics of one of the atomic pulls. I've done lots of them, but this was the last one I did, but the features are fairly consistent with how the other atomic pulls looked as well. If you notice, one side of the pulled filament looks fine, smooth no burnt material and looks as if it perfectly mimics the internal aspect of the nozzle. However, the other side has a gash/groove in it. Maybe this groove is caused by some lodged material. This groove is present in every atomic pull I have done. One thing I noticed was when I cleaned my gnarled bolt was that it looked like there were thin metal pieces attached to the filament... Not sure where those pieces came from, but I cleaned them off and cleaned out the bowden before printing again. Hopefully that is not in the nozzle. Both pics are of same atomic pull. This side looks fine. This side has a gash/groove in it. (this groove has been in every atomic pull)
  5. An update: little over a year later after replacing both hotends with all official ultimaker parts. I did very little printing during the past year until the past couple months because both hotends clogged almost immediately with ABS after I installed them a year ago. I eventually was able to clear one of the nozzles out using a modified version of the Atomic Pull method and printed on and off for the past 2 months with PLA. I have had very mixed results: a lot of underextrusion and a lot of clogs (Atomic method had to be used after almost every print as the next print would not function). Now Atomic Method is coming out clean, yet I'm still experiencing significant underextrusion. I assumed the hotend coupler must be deformed, but after disassembling the hotend, the coupler looks fine. What is the cause of the underextrusion, I don't know. I've cleaned the gnarled bolt, I've loosed the screw on the extruder driver, I've tightened the screw on the extruder driver, I've used brand new filament, I've cleaned the bowden tube, I've adjusted bed leveling in case it was too close and causing back pressure and I replaced the entire hotend with offical ultimaker parts. Nothing produced consistent positive results. What is consistent are clogs and underextrusion occurring at least every 2-3 prints and now unable to print. I'm abandoning offical ultimaker parts in favor of third party parts in hopes of finally getting consistent results. I will be purchasing a 3rd party PTFE bowden tube and 3rd party hotend. Currently looking at E3D hotends, but am still looking at what is currently on the market. Will update on my results when I make my decision and get some prints going.
  6. I replaced the entire hotend because I was desperate to get my printer working properly. I've had issues with my UMO since I bought it. Even now I'm having significant underextrusion and I can't figure out why. I tried loosening the screw on the extruder driver (bc I noticed filament grinding), it did not resolve the issue, so I tightened it and its still underextruding. I'm printing at 50m/s, so I'm not printing too fast. Maybe the coupler is deformed, but just seems like its too new to be deformed especially considering I have only been printing PLA with it. As for the bowden, I assume its the factory bowden, which the previous owner had been using since 2013-2014, so it could be as old as 3-4 years. Also, should I be using the blue clip on the coupling where the bowden attaches to the exdruder drive?
  7. I've noticed that my nozzle temperature will occasionally jump around crazy during the start of a print. I am printing in PLA at 210C, but the nozzle will drop to 205 then shoot up to 212 and will flux. What would cause this, loose cables on the print head?
  8. Well, I've printed at LEAST 50 hours since I replaced the entire hotend including the coupler. I bought the printer used, so I do not know how many hours were on it before I bought it and I myself had put on prob 100 hours before replacing the hotend. As for the temperature, I don't think the control settings let me go above 250C nozzle temp. The bowden has been with me since I bought it and who knows how many hours the previous owner put on it. Debating on buying a new bowden, but the official tube is ridiculously overpriced. I've seen posts of others recommending different brand of bowden, but what length is ideal?
  9. What length should the bowden tube be ideally? What are you using to cut the bowden tube?
  10. I've seen some recommend a filament duster. My 3d printing environment is quite dusty and I'm considering adding one. 1. Any reason to not use a filament duster? 2. What sponge/material to use as the dust wiper? 3. Should I oil the sponge or not oil it? If use oil, what type is ideal and do any of the oils interfere with any of the filament types (nylon, pla, abs, ninja flex, pva, ect)?
  11. I've noticed that the end of a spool has significantly more tension than the start of a spool. Furthermore, occasionally tangles/kinks form in the filament. 1. How to mitigate tension when nearing the end of a spool of filament? 2. How to prevent tangling/kinking in a spool of filament? 3. Is the UMO spool holder adequate or is an after-market or 3d printed spool holder better? If so, what recommendations do you have?
  12. Okay, so I think I have ruled some things out. I was able to watch a print and saw the layer shift occur early in the print. So I know its not from the power flickering or from the stepper motors overheating. This is someone else's video, but this is exactly what I saw: I assumed the belts needed tightened because to me they feel a little loose. I tried to tighten the screws, but they are already tightened to the max. I then moved the print head around while the printer was off and noticed it was quite stiff. Gave it some machine oil and now its moving much smoother. Not sure if this will resolve the layer shifting issue or not. A video posted by Tom Saladerer mentioned that a good starting place for belt tension is to strum the belt and it should sound like an E Note from a Bass Guitar. Is this an accurate test? How do I know if my belts are loose?
  13. I'm trying to systematically work through all the issues that could be causing the underextrusion and the bowden tube is also on the list... However, I've definitely hit at least 50 hours of printing. When I disassemble the hotend, will the isolator coupler look burnt and deformed if its ready to be replaced? What is the difference between TFM coupler and PTFE? Which do you recommend I purchase? How can I visually tell if the bowden tube needs to be replaced?
  14. Is the hot end isolator coupler of the UMO a consumable? I've been having issues with underextrusion and noticed filament grinding, so I was wondering if the isolator coupler could have become deformed and is causing underextrusion and back pressure on the extruder motor. (though I only print PLA and only go above 210C to remove clogs using a modified atomic method).
  15. I found these gems: Custom printhead using Ultimaker 3 Printcore on a UM Go clone: Then Foehnsturm's Interchangable Magnetic tool Changer: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/10657-a-different-multi-extrusion-approach-um-tool-printhead-changer?page=last
  16. I followed your link, but because the language is not in english I am unclear about what the potential applications are of this process. What are the applications? Are you extruding live bacteria within the plastic or is it getting killed by the heat?
  17. It seems like dual extrusion solutions are being developed at an ever more rapid pace, which is great for the 3d printing community as it increases the complexity of what we can print. Has anyone tried any of the 3rd party dual extrusion solutions for the UM2? If so, how well have they worked?
  18. What is the best way to clean the gnarled bolt after filament grinding?
  19. Anyone tried dual extrusion on UMO with the new Cura 2.3?
  20. Also, some people feel the wooden wheel is inadequate and feel a redesigned ABS printed wheel is betters: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:74839 Should I stick with the wooden wheel or replace it with a design like this?
  21. Which one of my extruders has the more 'updated' drive, Extruder 1 or Extruder 2? Is there a performance difference between the drives in my Extruder 1 and Extruder 2? I have been having issues with underextrusion at times and would prefer to use the one that gives me optimal performance as my primary extruder.
  22. I own an UMO that I purchased pre-owned and noticed it came with extra parts for the extruder driver. I realized that Ultimaker once sold an UMO Extruder Drive Upgrade kit, which they no longer sell. I have dual extrusion and noticed that on extruder 1 most of the parts are wood, yet extruder 2 has more plastic parts. Is there a way to tell if my Extruder Drive is stock versus having the UMO Extruder Drive Upgrade Kit installed? Extruder 1 (3 views) Extruder 2 (3 views)
  23. Thanks for the reply. Is wall thickness the same as shell thickness? How do you adjust Gradual Infill Steps? Is that done through Cura or the firmware?
  24. I just realized the part with poor overhangs is luckily an anti-warping structure for printing in ABS (I used PLA, so next print I will remove it in Cura). However, still curious as to how to improve the overhangs.
  25. So the only real benefit is in printing exotic materials that require hotter temps? Do you feel there is any print quality difference between the two for PLA or ABS? Also, if I want to keep printing PLA, would it be possible to have both my UMO and E3D hotends attached at the same time (I have dual extrusion upgrade) and just take off the E3D and use the UMO hotend for PLA, then reattach the E3D when I wish to use it for ABS and all other hotter materials? Is the E3D easy to remove and reinstall?
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