printerfan

Thanks for the replies guys, I will check the pulley screws today. In the mean time a different 11 hour print came off the bed this morning, it was of a different, but similar part of the Inmoov arm. This part is of the same height as the one that experienced the layer shifting, but this one came out pretty good. Only thing I changed was infill to 80% through basic settings, I was previously using the 'quick print normal setting', which I don't know the infill % on that, but it definitely is less than 80%. Overall, new print came out good, only real issue is the over hang has a "chewed up" appearance. I have a single extrusion fan with shroud, 50m/s print speed, 210C nozzle temp. Any advice for improving the overhang?

Does increasing infill improve print quality? Does increasing infill improve print durability (i.e. mechanical part)?

What is the benefit of having an E3D hotend over the Ultimaker? Do you experience clogs? Is it better for flex filaments?

I own an ultimaker original with an official heated bed added. I use Cura and have occasionally had issues with layer shifting in some of my prints. I am currently trying to print the Inmoov arm, but on one of the taller parts I have been experiencing layer shifting. Yet this other piece for the arm, about an inch or so shorter, but similar in complexity came out fine: I need help figuring out why this is occurring. Here are possible causes of layer shifting from what I have read: 1. Stepper motors overheating. - For: Occurs in longer prints (>4 hours). -Against: Printing open to air in cool basement (55-65 degrees F). Does not consistently occur with long prints. 2. Loose belts -For: my ultimaker was purchased preowned (I'm not sure how many print hours it has) -Against: belts feel tight (but I'm amateur and don't know what "tight vs somewhat loose" feels like). 3. Electronics (Low current or voltage drop) -For: I've had cables become loose on the underside of the printer before and effect power to printer. Also, my house occasionally has flickering in lights (Not something I notice daily, but have seen it happen.) -Against: I printed same tall 11 hour piece twice, and layer shifting occurred within 2 mm of same layer height, yet printed 8 hour model that was inch shorter and no layer shifting. This could be possible if voltage drop occurred at same time during each day due to issue with house electronics and I likely started the second print of the 11 hour piece at the same time of day. 4. Jerk or Acceleration Setting are Non-ideal -For: I was experiencing ringing in a few prints couples years ago and did change my Jerk and Acceleration settings per forum member recommendations. I have heard occasionally my printer excessively vibrate/resonate during some prints and it sounds awful. This doesn't happen every print, but I hear it sometimes. -Against: I have done a good number of prints since adjusting Jerk and Acceleration settings and most do not have layer shifting. Also I printed Tom's resonance test piece. I didn't understand his instructions, so I set them as I thought it was telling me (1.0 shell thickness, 100% fill density, 'normal print speed' setting, default size of object) https://www.youmagine.com/designs/resonance-test#activity Printed one with a Raft, one without Raft Results came out fine: 5. Nozzle impacting print as it reaches top of tall print Unlikely, but I've heard of this happening to people.

Are you willing to ship to the USA?

I have recently become interested in working with electronics and will be learning to solder soon. 1. What grade of particulate filter does one need to filter lead and lead-free solder particulates? 2. Any brand of mask anyone recommends?

I had issues with 2 official thermocouples, the first could not even be inserted into the aluminum block because the diameter was too large, the replacement they sent was able to be inserted, but once heated it expanded and is stuck in the block. For some people this may not be an issue, but for me it made dissembling the hot end more difficult (I occasionally get clogs requiring acetone soaking). Personally, I would order Chinese in the future because of the size issues with the newer official thermocouples did not justify the cost (my older official thermocouples have no issue being removed and reinserted into the aluminum block).

I have a raspberry pi with a small monitor, keyboard, and mouse that I want to use to print from via cura. I am not really familiar with linux (raspbian installed on my pi), but I had two quick questions regarding linking my pi to my ultimaker original. 1. What cable do I use to link the pi to my ultimaker? The same cable I use to link my pc to my ultimaker? 2. How do I install cura in raspian linux? I'm a lifelong windows user, so far everything in linux seems weird to me.

I'm a big fan of kickstarter and crowd sourcing, but I didn't fund this project for a few reasons. 1. The cost was rather high and I've seen other high profile projects fail and people lose all their money. 2. I wasn't convinced regarding the print quality. 3. I wanted to see more footage of the makerarm in action and hear from users. If it works as advertised, its a big step forward in the maker community in my opinion, but as most commercial items, what is advertised is more of an idealized version of the product.

A very interesting concept utilizing a robotic arm with an exchangable head to perform many different maker tasks from 3d printing, soldering, assembly, ect. I've had great experiences on kickstarter, but I've only contributed to low cost projects. I've seen a number of 3d printing projects fail where contributors lost $1000+ each... But this one is still interesting, what do you all think?

Thanks for the link valcrow. If NASA is buying it, that adds to the legitamacy of the technology in my opinion. Still wondering about the service being offered in the link I included, from what I read it was vague about whether you had to pay additional fees to have access to processing time. I am sure you would have to, but I'm not sure how much it would cost or what programs could utilize the service.

Update 3: Fbrc8 recommended I use WD-40 to attempt to remove the thermocouple, then soak the parts in acetone to remove any WD-40 residue. They stated its a time consuming process, but they have got it to work in the past. I'm not comfortable attempting this at the moment due to the chemical composition of WD-40, its not something I want on any moving mechanical parts or parts that express high heat. I may try this as a last ditch effort to get it off. I'm unhappy with the situation. The parts should fit, plain and simple, the amount of money charged for the hotend pack and the thermocouple do not justify a fitting incompatibility. Had I bought these from China off ebay, I would be more forgiving, but I didn't, I paid extra so I would not have to experience something like this. I do not think I will be ordering "official ultimaker" parts in the future, I will save money and order from ebay if this is the quality to be expected. I was able to disassemble the hotend enough to get to the hotend barrel at the level of the peek. I alternated between heat and no heat on the block to carefully pick out the clog with a thin sculpting tool, it took a long time, but I think I was able to spare the threading from being coated with filament. I was able to get the nozzle to soak in acetone, which works wonderfully, let it soak for 24 hours, agitate, pick out ABS with thin tool, soak for another 24 hours in acetone, agitate and pick out ABS again, and repeat until all ABS is gone (usually took me 2-3 trials of this to completely clean the nozzle). I have my UMO printing again, for which I am thankful, but I switched back to PLA for now. My conclusion for the origin of the clog is the "preheat ABS" setting on the ulticontroller was the cause of the problem. For ABS, the nozzle heats up to 250C before the bed reaches 100C, meaning the ABS cooks for 5-10 minutes causing it to change properties and harden. Oddly, the "preheat PLA" setting does not do this, the nozzle does not heat up until the bed temperature is reached. So on an UMO, I would avoid the "preheat ABS" setting on the ulticontroller and simply manually set the bed temp first, then once its reached set the nozzle temp.

I can try, but its so tight that I don't think it is going to budge. Even if it does come out after using extreme force coupled with a vice, its just ridiculous that I have to do this to simply disassemble my hotend, I paid "ultimaker prices" for a product that was supposed to properly fit and function, yet it does not. I have struggled with this printer for a year now and I am getting to a point of frustration where I am almost ready to just sell the printer and move on to a different brand, this community is the ONLY reason I have not jumped ship.

Lepaul sorry to hear about your cat, glad to hear everything was peaceful.

I can fit a bent paper clip into the hole already and have tried to push it out using that as well as a small torx screwdriver. What is the purpose of drilling? Doesn't that risk damaging both the block and the thermocouple?

The reason I do not beleive it is the aluminum block is the old thermocouple that I had fits fine, it slides in and out with almost no resistance in every aluminum block. The first replacement thermocouple I got was so large it couldn't even be installed, then the second replacement was a snug fit, but got lodged once it was heated. The aluminum block is official ultimaker too, I just bought the hotend pack. I ordered the replacement thermocouple from fbrc8, and they were quick to send the replacement when I told them about how the first was defective. They didn't say much about what they thought the cause was, but they requested that I send the first defective thermocouple back, so that they could determine the cause. I haven't had a chance to mail it back, I was going to do that today, but after seeing the new replacement is now stuck, I may have to mail it back along with the aluminum block its stuck in.

Yes, the hotend barrel is clogged, I need to remove the peek from the block to properly clean it. I have attempted the atomic method, it has never worked for me, the filament always snaps above the hotend and when I pull hard the rods start bending upwards and I do not wish to risk permanently deforming them. Yes, I removed the screw. I tried pushing the thermocouple out from the other end using a small torx screw driver, it wouldn't budge. There is a little portion hanging out and I can grab it with a needle nose plier, but I fear that will damage the thermocouple. I've tried removing it while heated, while it was cooling, and once it was completely cooled. It did not move.

I have ordered 2 thermocouples from Ultimaker this month and both have had major sizing issues. The first was so large it could not fit into the accompanying official block I purchased without getting stuck half-way in. So, I received a replacement that fit, albiet snugly. I installed this replacement and attempted to print ABS, a clog insued, and when I attempted to disassemble the hotend, the new thermocouple is now also lodged in the block and is not able to be removed. So from what I can tell, the already snug thermocouple permenantly expanded when heated and now its stuck. Is anyone else having issues with new thermocouples coming out from ultimaker? Any recommendations for fixing this?

Update 2: After installing the new thermocouple and attempting an ABS print the nozzle clogged and I attempted to disassemble the hotend. Everything came off except the thermocouple which is now stuck... The last one was so large it couldn't be installed properly, the replacement fit, albeit snugly, but now after having it in the block under heat it must have expanded and now it's lodged in the block. With the previous defective thermocouple I was able to push it out from the other side with a thin tool, but this one is too far in and is not moving. Any advice?

Any other opinions on this?

Shipping is $390 Canadian, $300 US dollars... Am I reading this correctly?

Kevin, what do you think of the Orbbec? Do you think its worth buying if I already have a kinect V1?

That would be awesome, thank you.

That's really cool, what software were you using?

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/orbbec-persee-world-s-first-3d-camera-computer/x/12478538#/story#Quote I am interested in 3d scanning, skeletal motion tracking, and facial tracking. I found this on indiegogo and it has some quotes by people who apparently know the ends and outs of hacking a kinect. However, outside of the Orbbec version with the built in computer, what can this do that a Kinect V1 not do? Is it basically a kinect V1 with a computer built-in and a more open platform?