printerfan

Finally decided to try a different color filament by the same brand to see if maybe it was just a bad spool of filament. In this newest print, the printhead completely misses both ultibots on both their left and right sides several times causing massive PLA strands to get dumped next to and partially hanging off the ultibot prints.

Forgot to mention the previous owner install dual extrusion on my UMO, so maybe the 2 pin plugs are for the second extruder? I just don't know where I am supposed to plug a 2 pin fan into given the slots appear occupied on the print head?

Okay, I'm going to order a fan. What fan is ideal? I found this one below: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171560866172?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Also, not sure where to plug the fan into because it looks like the slots on the top of the printer head are already being used for something?

I keep making changes in Cura settings based on everyone's suggestions, but unfortunately my prints are still bad.

Minimum layer time is 5.

Well, I didn't have these issues with the Ultimaker brand filament and I didn't have a fan then either. I slowed the print down to 20 mm/s print speed, 200C nozzle, 50C bed, and have tried both 2.85 and 3.0 mm diameter, same results. Maybe it is the lack of fan, but I just don't understand why I was able to get decent quality on prints with the Ultimaker Filament but not the Protoparadigm filament?

Unfortunately, I do not have a hotend fan yet. I bought my UMO used and for whatever reason the previous owner removed it. I will try 50C bed temp and 200C nozzle temp and see if that makes a difference. Also, do you recommend 2.85 mm or 3.0 mm diameter settting in Cura for Protoparadigm PLA filament?

I can see how increasing the travel speed would potentially reduce the strings between multiple objects when printing "all at once", but how do I get rid of the "chewed up" look of the single object prints that are in the picture using the Blue Protoparadigm filament in the picture above?

When I went back into cura it turns out one of the objects is inverted relative to how I thought it was on the plate. So the stringing was between the items. I was printing "all at once", print speed 30 mm/s, .1 mm layer height, 150 movement speed, 210C nozzle temp, 70C bed temp, the above grey prints used Ultimaker brand filament. Wondering what to adjust to reduce the stringing between objects? Also, just put in a spool of Protoparadigm PLA and prints are looking even more stringy and "chewed up", despite printing one object even at a slow 20mm/s print speed.

Haha, yes it turned out I set a spool of ABS in my PLA stack and didn't realize it.

I ran out of Ultimaker Brand filament today and switched to an unopened new spool of Protoparadigm "Grape" color filament. I have an UMO with official heated bed and I cannot get the Protoparadigm filament to stick to the heated glass bed. I literally performed over 30 bed leveling patterns attempting to adjust the bed with the 3 point leveling knobs live during the prints, only having to stop each print as the pattern would eventually get pulled up off the bed. I did not have this issue at all with the Ultimaker brand. I attemped different nozzle temps with the Protoparadigm brand: 210, 220, 225, and 230C with no success. I even adjusted the bed temp from 70, 75, 80C. The higher bed and nozzle temperatures seemed to do better, but still not acceptable as all prints would still get pulled off the bed eventually. What do I do? Is this an issue typical of Protoparadigm brand filament?

Its an UMO with official heated bed installed. Printer is working again, I took apart the nozzle there was no clog and filament was able to pass from Bowden tube all the way out the aluminum block, I took out the thermocouple and tested it: worked fine, I checked the PEEK insulator: no deformation or melting. Everything checked out fine and now its working. The amount of smoke was insane and it was grey smoke, so maybe it was moisture???

Also looking at the PEEK insulator as its still attached to the heating block, it does not look deformed.

I printed a 17 hour print and it came out fantastic. I let the printer cool for about 30-45 mins before starting a new hour long print. After about 10 minutes I did not hear the printer start and went to check on it. Tons of smoke was coming out of the hot end and the printer had not moved! I turned off the printer and unplugged it. What should I do?

I ran a bed leveling pattern and adjusted as it printed. Afterwards I printed a different print, which resulted in a better, but still not ideal print. The print is nearly flowless on the front, back, and left side. However, on the right side, both items that I printed have tons of strings even though the design does not have much if any overhang... Not sure what to do to fix this?

I just installed the official heated bed upgrade on my UMO and now I am experiencing stringy prints. Any advice on how to fix? Do I need to adjust my bed?

I've been really busy and won't be able to write instructions on how to divide prints until next week. Do you still want me to do this when I get a chance or did the video clear things up?

What is a good printable ultimaker extruder for 1.75 mm filament?

It's unfortunate the chimera doesn't take 3.0 mm filament. Is there any advantage to 1.75 mm filament?

I have dual extrusion on my UMO, long story short one of my aluminum heating blocks stripped and I am in the market to purchase a new hot end. The price is very reasonable, has anyone tried this hot end? http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2055359.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xultimaker+heated+block&_nkw=ultimaker+heated+block&_sacat=0 What about other alternatives such as the hot ends offered by E3D such as the Kracken or the Chimera? http://e3d-online.com/Multi-Extrusion

Ok I will try that shroud, can I print it in PLA? I still don't have a fan, I bought my ultimaker used and the previous owner removed the fan, what fan should I buy?

Any model, brand, or size of fan recommended?

I heated up the block for a several minutes, then tried to insert the nozzle again. Unfortunately, it still went in sideways... :( I may try the tap and die, but only if I can burrow one from someone. I cannot justify the cost as I will likely never use it again and ebay offers replacement parts for almost the same price as the cheapest tap and die set I can find.

So which setting should I use in Cura to estimate my build space: UMO or UMO+?

I'm struggling with how to mount acrylic panels with all the screw heads and projections on the surface of the UMO... Anyone made an airtight enclosure for the UMO?