memory556

I want to believe in the bigger size printer, but I feel like they’re playing with the perspective. The new guy is at the front of the table and the 2+ and 3 are shifted back. I personally doubt that they’re making a printer that has a crazy long Y-axis. But if it is a 300 or 400mm^3 then... man. That’d be awesome.

Hey guys. I noticed that in the latest update I'm having this space off to the side where I can't print from. Any idea what this is and how I can get it to go away? Thanks!

Hey guys! So I'm 12 hours (~71 hours total) away from finishing all the pieces for my full size Grenade Face helmet. And I've been trying to figure something out. I'm printing the faceplate out of UM nylon and am trying to figure out the best way to smooth it out and finish it and prep it for paint. Would acetone work? Any other ideas? For painting, I normal use a filler primer and then use bondo where needed, more primer, and then finish with paints, weathering, and clear coat. Would this process still work for painting? Thanks guys! P.S. Not sure why this was posted in the "other materials" section. lol

Thank you!!!

Hey guys! So I printed with my AA and BB print cores when I first got my printer, then when I ran out of PVA, I went the use both AA cores. I just got some PVA, finally! , and have come to find out the my BB print core is jammed? It barely extrudes and the feeder grinds on the material. The extruded material is mostly brown and a little clear. Any idea how to fix this? I have some prints for work that I need to get done. Thanks guys!!

At my college we have a crappy 3D systems handheld scanner. I say crappy because the quality is... Really bad. Yes I could go through the mesh and fix it up and make it better, but I just use it for the scale and proportions. Thank you! By the way everyone! I have started working on the full scale version!!!!

Haha!! I will! And I'm thinking about selling kits. Well. I had a very productive weekend! It's all painted and finished!! Picture or it didn't happen! "Ask and ye shall receive..." lol

Haha!! I will! And I'm thinking about selling kits. Well. I had a very productive weekend! It's all painted and finished!!

Thank you!!! UPDATE: All primed and will be painted this weekend!! If you want more frequent updates or see this project from the beginning, check out my instagram at designed_by_memory!

Haha. Not yet. Might be working on that soon. :DIt's been one of the best printers that I've ever used! I designed it 1:1 around a 3D scan of my head, but this print is at 50% scale to save on material and time. I will be printing at full scale soon though. And thank you! UPDATE: All the sanding is done!!!! Priming and painting will come soon!

I also recommend Fusion 360. It's one of my go to programs for designing and modeling. With all the content that AutoDesk is pushing out on it, just check out Fusion's youtube channel for previous webinars and awesome tutorial videos, it's easy to get started with it. Fusion is awesome for collaborating, files are stored in the cloud (can be a + or -), but you can download certain files to your machine, the software is the same for Windows and Mac (no Fusion for Mac) and the UI is the exact same (big plus for me), and the user community is fantastic to work with! Should you want to get into more organic design and whatnot in the future, Fusion also has a sculpting mode built in. It's nothing like Zbrush, but it's just nice having almost everything in one place as well. I've used Solidworks for school and it's an awesome program, and people who know how to use it well do AMAZING things that just blow me away. I am not one of those people. lol Another piece of software I'd recommend is Rhino. It's more surface modeling, whereas Fusion and Solidworks are solid modeling. So it is different, but there are similarities. You do have to pay for it, and if you're a Mac user the price will be going up at the new year because they're getting closer to the product that they're wanting (a closer version to their windows based software) So there's my two cents.

Thank you! It's been a fun project and the Ultimaker 3 has done everything like a champ!!! Makes me want to sell my UM2 and buy another 3.

Hey guys! So this is a project that I'm doing for my 3D printing class in college. All of the pieces were printed on my Ultimaker 3 Extended. Model was created by me based off reference material that was provided from Dutch Props. Big thanks to him! It's a total of 8 pieces and was modeled around a 3D scan of my head. Currently working on finishing the pieces and lots of sanding! Seams are filled with Apoxie Sculpt and then sanded smooth. Thanks for checking this out.

You can darken the lights with a gcode added to your gcode file. That means though you probably want the entire print dark - can't easily change it part way through. This is discussed on Daid's wonderful post about gcodes I think. Yes it was covered there, and is possible to change with the M142 gcode. I just miss that simple feature being already in the printer.

I'm fine with a non-touch display as long as it has that size. A touch display has to be much bigger...otherwise it's a PITA to operate it if you don't have tiny fingers... I agree with @Dim3nsioneer. The display is great as is. I have a printer that has a large touch display, and there are times when I have to really press on it, with both my finger and the stylus, and it makes me a little nervous. The one thing I want back is onboard control of the brightness of the LEDs. Having it in my room and having a 1 day 10 hour print going... Kinda rough to sleep with those bright LEDs on. lol

Ya. I have a Windows PC I built for Windows based CAD systems, but I always use Mac where I can.

Does that work with macOS? *Answer* Yes. But it's Command+Alt to select individual pieces of the merge. Thanks @neotko for the quick reply!!!

Hey guys! So I've been having a blast with my UM3 Extended! I've been messing around with the PVA, and sadly ran out. So now I want to mess with dual color parts. I'm having an issue though. I made a quick design and cut it into 3 pieces to test with dual colors. Now the issue. I bring in both stls and when I go to "merge" the 2 pieces they just get thrown together and it doesn't sit flush together as I designed it to be. Any suggestions or help that you can give me is GREATLY appreciated! Thanks!!

doesn't matter where you put it, but put it after the header anyway. M142 is for the case leds. (has no T parameter) and has rgbw parameters (note: lowercase!) M143 is for the head leds. There is an API for the case leds that will work in future firmware version 3.5.x Alright! Thanks! So I'm guessing in order to turn off the LEDs just input the code for the color black, right?

Hey guys! So just to make sure I understood correctly. To change/turn off the LEDs I add the M142 RxxxGxxxBxxxTx code after the header (not in it).

Hey @cloakfiend, I just wanted to say thanks for having such a great thread going here. I used this thread as my primary source of info for one of my finals this year. I gave a presentation on how Acetone can finish 3D prints, showed some of your images and some of my own results. I wouldn't have been able to get as much done without the information that you've provided here. Thanks again!

That's amazing!

I'd say option A as well.

Yes, his cause is a good one, but the thing that makes me uneasy about that is he doesn't really show how the money will help him fulfill this cause. Is it for printers to print the pieces on, for personal education to learn more about animal anatomy and how to print/design better items for them or is it to help pay for material? There's just too much left out for me.

That's what I thought, And is really the main reason why I don't put up my files for download. Sure, I'll put them up so people can see them, and hopefully get inspired to make their own version. We all put a lot of time into these models. Ya. Something that I noticed is that he used images straight off of the websites too, Youmagine and Thingiverse.