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memory556

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Everything posted by memory556

  1. Hey guys, So in my browsing of kickstarted on 3D printing and 3D printers, I came across this project. As I scrolled through it some of the pledge rewards looked familiar... @IRobertI is he selling your Labyrinth Gift Box, found here https://www.youmagine.com/designs/labyrinth-gift-box, for $8? I'm not sure if this is ok, but if it was my model and some else was selling it, I'd at least want credit. Here is the project on Kickstarter:
  2. This print is almost done and I'll post a picture of the original print and the one that I just finished. It's AMAZING!!!
  3. Yes I did that. And I believe that that did it. I've had a print going for the past 3-4 hours and it's looking amazing!!!! Thank you everyone, @labern @gr5 @bob-hepple, for all your help! I really appreciate everything!
  4. So I just started another print. I had the same error pop up, but something that I noticed this time, and I don't know if this happened on the other times, but my dial wheel is changing colors... I've never noticed that before. Any ideas? I updated the firmware as was suggested by @gr5. Correction... I'm still over 15.01. Going to do that now.
  5. Ya. They're very impressive. And the Ultem doesn't come in colors. That's the only one.
  6. So basically it would help to make sure you have firmware 15.01 and not older. And also bring fans on slowly, lol. Ok. I'm not sure what the latest version that's out now, but I have it. Where would I get the different firmwares? Thank you for the image!!! It helps out a ton! The issue that I'm having now is that, I can't tell where it's touching. Going off of my XT print it seems to be the right side, based off of Bob's photo. But with my Stratasys print, it's still giving me issues. *Update* I know that it is something to do with the fan shroud. The printer works fine without the fan shroud attached. I was able to get a couple layers down. Whereas before I couldn't get an entire layer down.
  7. Ya. It works great! But... I'm still getting the error... :( So I talked to my CAD teacher today and he said that he and I can look at it sometime, and try and figure it out. In the mean time if anyone has any ideas why I'm getting this error please let me know.
  8. Alright. So I've been working on upgrading my printer with various items. I've recently added the Olsson Block and recently after I added it I also added a new fan shroud designed by @Labern. I printed it with ColorFabb XT and it turned out great. Pretty soon I came up with an error for the heater. After some asking around on the chat room, and a close inspection of my new hothead and the area around it, I found that that material from the XT had melted and was actually in contact with the heater block. Now, I don't know if this new one will solve the issue, but at school we have 2 Stratasys printers (a Dimension 1200es and a Fortus 450). After I asked my 3D CAD teacher about the issue I asked if I could use one of the Stratasys printers to print a fan shroud, same model from Labern, with a material that could withstand the heat from the nozzle. After a small payment for the material used I now have the same model, and man... It looks AWESOME! So here are some pictures of the old fan shroud (red - ColorFabb XT) and the new one (tan - Stratasys Ultem 9085). If you all want me to keep you all updated on this let me know. It's been a great learning experience! Error... :(Sad day Hmm... Issue Comparison Stratasys Ultem 9085 fan shroud Installed
  9. Oh. lol Well we have the same basic concept. I just put it on the ball bearing now the actual feeder.
  10. Oh! I meant on Roberts feeder, to use a concaved ball bearing on it with the stock feeder knurled sleeve. Would those be replacements for that?
  11. Ya. I just had that thought since I use concave bearing on my yo-yos all the time. Yes I yo-yo. lol
  12. I had this same debate when I was looking into 3D printing back in November and December. I can now say that I couldn't have made a better decision then going with the UM2. Now, the big thing is that it's not always a smooth road. This isn't exactly a plug a print printer. I have yet to work with one that is truly a, "plug and print" printer. As has been stated earlier, the user community is awesome! Myself and a lot of other users are on a chatroom nearly daily and it's been super helpful when I run into an issue and can talk with them for help. There are so many people who can help you get your printer up to optimal performance. Plus you learn what to do yourself. Build area. What are you wanting to print? Do you have your own designs that you're wanting to print or do you just want to print really big objects? I hope this helps. Good luck in your decision!
  13. Just ordered my block with extra nozzles from gr5. Look forward to trying this out!
  14. Super helpful video. Glad to know that I wasn't too far off from doing atomic pulls, but this is a very helpful video. Thank you!
  15. Hey guys. I've been looking around the for an answer to this, but haven't found anything. So I have been wondering if anyone has used ColorFabb's carbon fiber filament. http://colorfabb.com/xt-cf20 The main reason of my curiosity is because ColorFabb states on their website, "A special point of attention is the abrasive nature of the carbon fibers. In general these fibers will accelerate the nozzle-wear of brass nozzles, much faster than unfilled filaments. Therefore we recommend to use nozzle’s from Stainless steel or hardened copper alloys." To my knowledge the UM2 has a brass nozzle head (correct me if I'm wrong please). So what would be the options for someone wanting to use one of these? Thank you.
  16. I use Fusion360. I'm a student and can get all of AutoDesk's products for free. I'm also pretty familiar with AutoCAD, and should be CAD certified with it by the end of next semester. I love Fusion. I'm also a Mac user and with it being the same layout both on Mac and PC is really helpful. I find it really easy to use, and AutoDesk has some amazing tutorials on Youtube on how to use it. Something that I find unique about Fusion is that it have a standard CAD way to model, and then it also has a sculpt mode. So you have do a lot of the "ball and clay" type of modeling. You can't do everything that a program like ZBrush can do, but it's more then other programs like AutoCAD can do. Another thing that I find that it is super helpful is in the Files menu there is a 3D Print button, with that you can have your selected model exported as an STL and then directly imported into your slicer of choice. Although the default is set to AutoDesk's Meshmixer, it's really easy to choose which application you want the model imported to. The only issue that I have with this, is you have to go into the files menu in Cura and select save .gcode unless you want to look for file, "019846273647617384.gcode" on your SD card. Other then that, I find the modeling process and exporting really easy. I'd highly recommend it to anyone!
  17. Good to know since I'm working on a 35 piece helmet. It's be nice be be able to get the layer lines out. I'm going to PM you with a few more questions about this. Thank you!
  18. That is a very good point... I didn't think about other things getting into the mix when you destroy your failed prints. But ya, post up the link to the loss of (insert property here) when you reheat it. That'd be interesting to see what people say about this when it comes out.
  19. Hey! I came across this and I'm not sure if anyone has posted about this or not. This is an amazing way of recycling those bad prints! What are your guys' thoughts? https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/protocycler-free-sustainable-3d-printer-filament
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