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  1. Hello guys! The problem has stopped! I am so relieved. I dissasembled the feeder again, cleaned with the attomic method and got a fan working and had no more problems. I have being running the machine and until now it is working perfectly! Thank you for all the help!
  2. Oi pessoal!!! Comecei a imprimir ha 2 semanas com a minha UM2. Estou no interior de São Paulo e estou adorando! Existe uma curva de aprendizado ainda mais quando se faz os próprios designs mas está tudo saindo melhor do que pensei. Tive um pouco de problema com superaquecimento do filamento que acabava comido no alimentador mas já está resolvido. Pesquisei bastante e em termos de qualidade x preço esta é a que encontrei como melhor opção. Obrigada mtmvetultimaker pelas dicas de onde comprar os filamentos. Vão me ajudar muito! Um beijo a todos!
  3. I did get a stuck filament in the bowden so I cut the bowden (50mm)... After that I installed all back (bowden, feeder and performed the atomic method as I could see the end tip of the filament got black) and had no problem in my next print. I am using the PLA that came with the machine. It is the light blue colour.
  4. Hi there! So, my print was finished after 3 hours and to my surprise there was no chewing. I tryed to mesure the motor temperature with a normal home thermometer and it showed 40.9 celsius but touching the table (presset to 50 celsius) they felt the same. I think the ventilation helped. The fan was on all the time. I am trying some more prints and check if the problem returns.
  5. Yes, this fan is working. I turned the machine on and left it for 30 minutes and the feeder motor did not get hot. I printed a 25 minutes test (with a little fan aimed at the feeder motor) and the motor got a bit hot by the end of the print but did not chew the filament. Now I am on a 3:45 minutes print and I still have the mini fan. Lets see... By the way the shortenned bowden (I cut 50mm) did not give me any hard time but until I get a new one I am going to let all prints to the back of the table so it wont have any streching to do. The only difference I noticed is that more left over m
  6. Hi gr5, the part I cut was not the nozzle end but the feeder end. That is where it got welded. And I did had to remove the horse shoes from both ends and unlock the bowlden tube. I heat the nozzle and took it out of that end after that as I could not pull from the feeder end pull it out from the other end. Next time before cutting I am going to try to warm it up first. Should I try the fan of to lower the amper first?
  7. I put the bowden tube back in place and it fits ok but I did not turn the machine on yet. Am I really going to have problems just because it 50mm shorter? Which material is it made from? I can try to source it locally. If I have to put the fan blowing from the front of the machine, would it not interfeer on my printing temperature as it is going to blow in the nozzer? I am going to try to take the filament out without disassembling the feeder. I just need to get hold of a tool to force the bearing away. I have to ask the neighboor. Girls dont have tools laying around like that but if you a
  8. It is the bowden tube. The material welded to it, I had to cut. I instaled back but I did not start the machine yet to test. The reason I think it is a motor problem is that you can see that the material is melting more and more inside the tube and closest to the feeder. So it is melting and at a certain point it rotates in fake (I dont know if this expresion exists in English), but it rotates without moving the filament as it is destroyed at this area. I am going to try to release the filament without disassembling the feeder but it does not solve my problem. As soon as the machine is on a
  9. Hi guys, I think my motor is heating too much. Today I tryes to print but nothing came out. I found out that the tube end in feeder motor srinked and the schewed filament welded to the internal wall of the tube. The motor is heating only by letting the machine on and every atemp of loading material ends the same. Real bad scewed filament. Could it be a motor problem? Could it be a mechanical problem? I started using it last Thusday night. The motor is damm hot but I can still touch it. Anyone has ever had this problem before? What can I do?
  10. Hi gr5 The problem started when I was printing a small area with a lot of retractions indeed. But why it persists? By back left cover, do you mean the internal metal cover of the motor?
  11. Hi guys, thank you for the answers. How can I load pictures? You need to see how bad it looks like. I noticed that the real bad chewing happens in the end of any print (big or small running prints). The back fun is working when I turn on the machine. I am using 215 as nozzle temperature, speed normally 70% only and layer height 0.1mm Last week we had high temperatures in São Paulo (34) but yesterday and today we are having maximum 24 Celsius. At the end of every print I have to unlock all the nozzle screws, take the filament off, cut and I check the motor temperature. It is hot but I can
  12. Hi everybody! I need urgent heeeeeeeelp! I got my UM2 last week and up to this morning I had no problems. The grinding (chewing) started today after printing to top of my piece that has many small holes. That print came out real bad as if missing material. I just realised what happenned when started my next print as no material would be released. I am using the blue PLA that came with the machine and put the pressure of the feeder to the lowest position but it still grind the material all along the printing. I found out that the filament was completly chewed and would not move up or down
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