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Everything posted by z-axis-3d

  1. Thanks again. Yesterday I ordered some "Flexfil" TPU from 3D filaprint, which is 92A; I also ordered a sample of Ninjatek Cheetah, which is 95A (and a LOT more expensive) - will be interesting to see the difference, but at least it looks like it was the right decision
  2. You star!! thank you, that is exactly what I needed.
  3. I had some of this material from a while back and I did a print for someone recently and they said it was perfect. Now they want more and I can't get this anymore. I will need an alternative of similar hardness. It is quite a lot harder than the 82A filaflex and ninjaflex that I use. Can anyone tell me a number for this? FYI Soft PLA from filament2print is 92A https://filament2print.com/gb/flexible-tpe-tpu/660-soft-pla-flex.html Flexible PLA from rigid ink (when they were still around) was 55D which seems closer to the high 90s in A ht
  4. Also still getting the error when starting up in 4.4.1. I submitted via "send report". I seem to get 4 instances of the crash report dialog Starts fine on my laptop, this only occurs on my desktop PC Added DXDiag screenshots with system info
  5. Update on this. I replaced the bearings nearest the stepper pulleys and it made no difference. I am now convinced that it's the belt on the pulley itself that is making the noise. I tried moving the pulley laterally to make sure the belt was not riding up the side of the pulley- that seemed to make no difference either, but applying a little pressure to the belt while it's turning and you can feel and hear the noise worsen- in fact you can feel the vibration of the belt running onto the teeth I can only imagine that the belt has stretched so the teeth are not meshing pe
  6. yeah I think what you are referring to here is that it's very difficult to get it apart without breaking the clips. I have a couple of broken clips now. My blocks are mostly holding together but I will get a couple of replacements. Tools I had were 2 small flat screwdrivers and an engineers scribe. You need to ease the clips up gently with one screwdriver while levering the halves apart with another -(after you have managed to create a gap- that's where the scribe come in) What you might expect from clips like this (what I expected) is that when you ease the clip apart the block w
  7. It's very hard to tell where it's coming from in there, the sound bounces around. In fact this is my oldest UM2 (march 2014 !!) and I have just been giving it some love. I have just replaced the bushes in those blocks too. It didn't make any difference to the sound or performance, but I had black residue building on the shafts, I think the bushes were starting to break down. However try loosening the 4 screws securing the stepper motor, and then tension the belt (or loosen it) - if you have the same issue as me you will be able to tell straight away. If I loosen the belt the noise
  8. I have the identical sound. Also has no effect on print quality so I have been putting up with it for ages, but very annoying. Looks like it's the the bearings closest to the stepper which go first - they have more force on them from the belt. I know it's a few months late for you, but for anyone reading this here is the spec for the 8 shaft end bearings https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2/blob/master/1220_Ball_Bearing_F688-2RS_(x8)/catalogus Specsheet 1220 Ball Bearing F688.pdf
  9. ust to follow up on this : I don't think I was running the right version from GitHub; so between the marlin code version and the arduino version I was running into different issues. I took a step back and -got the latest version of @tinkergnome 's geek_mode branch (17.10.1) -changed a couple of paths: --makefile : ARDUINO_INSTALL_DIR ?= /c/Arduino --package.sh : ARDUINO_PATH=C:/Arduino and now with Arduino 1.8.5 restored to that location (and all the previous configuration as per @gr5 's post I got a successful build of the hex files Thanks again Greg
  10. Final follow-up: I chqnged the pins as follows: #define Y_STEP_PIN 49 //was 32 // PC5 #define Y_DIR_PIN 47 //was 33 // PC4 #define Y_STOP_PIN 26 // PA4 #define Y_ENABLE_PIN 48 //was 31 // PC6 And it is working perfectly. Thanks so much. Cheers, Greg
  11. Thanks again, I don't think I was running the right version from GitHub; so between the marlin code version and the arduino version I was running into different issues. Editing UltiLCD2_hi_lib.cpp as you suggested above did work, but in the meantime I took a step back and -got the latest version of geek_mode branch (17.10.1) -changed a couple of paths: --makefile : ARDUINO_INSTALL_DIR ?= /c/Arduino --package.sh : ARDUINO_PATH=C:/Arduino and now with Arduino 1.8.5 restored to that location (and all the previous configuration as per @gr5 's post I got a successful build of the hex
  12. "eeprom_read_float" was not defined in earlier compiler versions, so it may actually help to use an older compiler. On the other hand: i used version 1.8.1 last time, the difference should not be that big... and the used "weak" pragma is intended as a hint to the linker how to handle this. For newer compiler versions it should be safe to remove the definitions of both functions from UltiLCD2_hi_lib.cpp ("eeprom_read_float" and "eeprom_write_float"). Thanks I will try this. FYI in the meantime I used older compiler(s) and got a different error, but had to stop before I had explored al
  13. I downloaded that from sourceforge and it looks like the shell (called "terminal window") that is put in the start menu is just a shortcut to a BAT file which has : set PATH=C:\Program Files\mingw-w64\x86_64-7.2.0-posix-seh-rt_v5-rev1\mingw64\bin;%PATH% So I just put a path environment variable to c:/MinGW/bin/ and then launch the command prompt window as normal. So I am not sure that mingw64 is needed. However in the end I got the same error as I got when trying to build in the IDE c:/arduino/hardware/tools/avr/bin/../lib/gcc/avr/4.9.2/../../../../avr/lib/avr6\libatmega2560.a(e
  14. Awesome. I just wrote a long response to this with lots of details about how I got on and it's all lost for some reason. The browser, our new operating system. faaaaaantastic. I will try to respond again sometime. Thanks @gr5 and @tinkergnome for taking the time to do this. it helped a lot.
  15. Thanks again, just to report back, I added a reply on the above thread, it is probably the more relevant place to put stuff about building Marlin for anyone else looking for that later. But in a nutshell I am still getting the "multiple definition of eeprom_read_float" error when building using that method -however I have not tried going to an older version of the Arduino compiler yet. Thanks, Greg
  16. Awesome, thanks I hadn't seen that and it looks perfect. Working through that next and will report back Cheers, Greg
  17. Thanks for this So I haven't built Marlin before so just trying to judge the level of effort / knowledge required here. So before I make any changes I want to see that I can build marlin; and right now I don't know what I don't know I am running Windows. I am in fact using Tinker, so I downloaded the source from: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin In the readme it says "Install the arduino software IDE/toolset v23 (Some configurations also work with 1.x.x)"I installed the latest Arduino IDE 1.8.5 I copied sanguino from the Marlin dir to C:\Program Files (x86)\Arduino\ha
  18. Thanks! Yes I did in fact do that mod on both of my printers, but on this one the fan had failed. Sorting that out as well as part of this refurb.
  19. Wow thanks for this answer. Very useful indeed. Having a particular board that you have used make me feel a little more confident about that. When you say swap Extruders 1 & 2. It is actually Y stepper that I need to swap with E2. Is that what you meant? Is there any difference in these controllers (like current ratings) Heatsinks are already ordered because all of the stepper controller chips (and surrounding board look a little brown. I also have an a spare board from my other UM2 which had an intermittent fault (freezing) and was replaced under warranty. Who knows maybe installing
  20. I got a quote for a new original board from the recommended supplier in the UK and it was £330 with delivery and VAT. A little rich for my blood just at the moment, but I am wondering if I could modify the firmware to use the spare E2 controller instead. I'm sure that must be doable and would be a great solution to getting my old faithful running again at little cost. I think I will post a new post on that so that the heading might attract people who are more likely to be able to answer.
  21. yeah the vibration is enough to cause a surface texture on the prints, and it's loud and deep enough that you can't really ignore it. travels through walls
  22. I have this problem on my Ultimaker 2 (March 2014 and still going strong- apart from this!). A very loud and deep vibration from the Y stepper. When I move the assembly around by hand there is no detectable noise. When I removed the belt completely and screwed the motor back into place the noise was almost completely gone (no load) When holding the stepper in my hand and creating a little resistance I could feel the vibration When I swapped the X&Y steppers at the board the noise moved from the Y to the X I reduced the X&Y steppers current from 1300 to 1200 with no detectab
  23. Hey @Blizz I have been wanting to upgrade my knurled wheel -are you using one of those concave ones? Are there any posts specifically about that, or could you please share briefly where you got the wheel and what changes you needed to make?
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