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Everything posted by danilius

  1. Yup, just found it! I should have looked just a little harder 😞 Thanks!
  2. I even searched the settings in Configure in Cura 3.6, but the filament diameter setting is no-where to be found. I don't know if it was there before, but it's definitely not there now. Any idea why?
  3. Thanks, marketplace update cured the problem!
  4. I have installed 3.6 but for some reason the Octoprint plugin does not show up (even though it's in the plugin folders). Any ideas how to track down the issue?
  5. Yowzer! Awesome finish. I'm sure we are all gagging to find out how you pull off such remarkable finishes. When are you revealing your dark arts?
  6. That fix did not work for me, in fact it prevented the Octoprint plugin from showing up at all. Thanks for the report. I will fix this for the 3.1 final release. As a workaround for now, you can disable support for writing to the sdcard in the OctoPrint webinterface. After that you may have to connect to the octoprint instance again in Cura. Update: Here's the fix: https://github.com/fieldOfView/OctoPrintPlugin/commit/d5414e
  7. Never mind, I found the log file and here is the error: ERROR - OctoPrintPlugin.OctoPrintOutputDevice._startPrint [479]: An exception occurred in network connection: name 'global_container_stack' is not defined Note that Cura is actually connecting OK, and can monitor the print in progress just fine.
  8. I can't get 3.1 to send files to Octoprint even though it does connect correctly, it does not display an error message when failing the upload, where can I find a log file?
  9. Version 1.0


    A geodesic dome sukkah, more of which you can read about here: http://daniepstein.com/daniepstein/worlds-first-3d-printed-sukkah-well-sort-of/
  10. Totally awesome print and really nice paint job.
  11. 'Tiz the only way to get things proper reet... Then you are sorted. With UHU stic if you apply it to a hot bed, you get a nice smooth - but not glass - finish. As it is, when gluing parts together you want a roughish surface anyway, to get a greater surface area for the glue to adhere to. What glue do you use, BTW?
  12. Since you are within reach of ebay UK, give UHU stic a go before spraying muck all over your build plate. Works a charm for me, for all my current filaments (PLA, ABS, Nylon, PETG). Spread it with the plate at around 50C, and print PETG at 75C.
  13. I bought some PETG from amazon UK, 3D Prima brand. It has a glass-like appearance once printed (if you use really fat layers). It is as easy to print as PLA, although at higher temps. I tend to print 0.2mm layers at 30mm/sec for the outers, 45mm.sec for inners and infill at 255C and the bed at 75C, no enclosure required either (although to be honest I don't use one with ABS either). I use UHU stic on glass, works just fine for me. It does not warp like ABS, it does not smell very much, less than PLA. It's greatest strength is its.....strength. Crazy strong compared to PLA and ABS. You can re
  14. Have you ever tried plain PETG? I've been using the stuff for parts that are getting a serious walloping, and the results are nothing short of astonishing.
  15. Ahh, Shurik, you got everyone excited and then let us down with a bump.
  16. Awesome stuff! How are you printing dual head?
  17. My four year old son was promised a keyring if he behaved nicely at the dentist, and what do you know, he did! I cleaned off the dribbles after I took this shot. The coin is a British 2p, which is 25.9mm in diameter. Printed in Prima 3D PETG, 0.2mm layers, 250C, 30mm/sec outer walls, 45mm/sec everything else, no supports, 10 line brim, bed temp 75C.
  18. Interesting. Will have to give that one a whirl.
  19. I have found that going easy with acetone allows for better results. So, for a weld, keep a very thin gap between the parts when applying the acetone, use a small amount, then shove the parts together really quickly and breathe in the wonderful fumes. For sealing, use several washes rather than dumping in a bucket load. For tight ball joints you might want to consider using a fine abrasive powder. I haven't tried this, but you might want to put some baking soda into a tight ball joint, wiggle it around until smooth (might need several applications) and then wash it out with water. You mi
  20. Well, what other option was there? Maybe polyurethane varnish, but that takes ages to dry, and I wanted it on the table pronto. The one big advantage that ABS has is the acetone thing. There are so many tricks one can do using acetone, including seamless welds. Aaaaanyway, it has been almost two weeks now, and the flowers are drooping but the vase is still watertight. I expect it is a permanent fix.
  21. The whole thing was modelled in Blender. There is a plugin to create spiral curves, and then a mesh - in this case the letters - has a Curve modifier attached that distorts it along a curve.
  22. Printed this for the wife - the names of all our family. Printed in ABS with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height. The printer was left open, no paper or cardboard covering it. Obviously it did not distort or delaminate during the print. It took around 8 hours to print at 60mm/sec and 45mm/sec for outer edges. The only thing that went a bit wrong was that I did not print it solid, so it leaked a little. That was easy to fix, I simply washed the inside with acetone, and minutes later it was dry and waterproof.
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