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danilius

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Everything posted by danilius

  1. Yup, just found it! I should have looked just a little harder 😞 Thanks!
  2. I even searched the settings in Configure in Cura 3.6, but the filament diameter setting is no-where to be found. I don't know if it was there before, but it's definitely not there now. Any idea why?
  3. Thanks, marketplace update cured the problem!
  4. I have installed 3.6 but for some reason the Octoprint plugin does not show up (even though it's in the plugin folders). Any ideas how to track down the issue?
  5. Yowzer! Awesome finish. I'm sure we are all gagging to find out how you pull off such remarkable finishes. When are you revealing your dark arts?
  6. That fix did not work for me, in fact it prevented the Octoprint plugin from showing up at all. Thanks for the report. I will fix this for the 3.1 final release. As a workaround for now, you can disable support for writing to the sdcard in the OctoPrint webinterface. After that you may have to connect to the octoprint instance again in Cura. Update: Here's the fix: https://github.com/fieldOfView/OctoPrintPlugin/commit/d5414e
  7. Never mind, I found the log file and here is the error: ERROR - OctoPrintPlugin.OctoPrintOutputDevice._startPrint [479]: An exception occurred in network connection: name 'global_container_stack' is not defined Note that Cura is actually connecting OK, and can monitor the print in progress just fine.
  8. I can't get 3.1 to send files to Octoprint even though it does connect correctly, it does not display an error message when failing the upload, where can I find a log file?
  9. I had a removable drive plugged in from which I assume I loaded a file in Cura 2.4 at some point. Now Cura will refuse to start unless there is a drive in the same slot. I have tried starting Cura with the drive in, setting the "save file" to file instead of removable drive, clicking all the buttons in the error dialog, all to nothing. Is there any way of getting rid of this behaviour from the settings file?
  10. Version 1.0

    1,039 downloads

    A geodesic dome sukkah, more of which you can read about here: http://daniepstein.com/daniepstein/worlds-first-3d-printed-sukkah-well-sort-of/
  11. Well, I'm not certain you are absolutely correct about that. If you slice a model with the machine set to 0.4mm, and the line width to 1.0mm, you will get a different time estimate than if they were both set to 1.0mm. I confirmed that again in Cura just before posting. But if you are certain that the end result is identical, then hey, i can live with that. The new Cura is a leap forward in a big way. Two important features are missing for me however: single layer view and retractions. For some of the prints I do this makes a difference to the design itself.
  12. I absolutely love the new Cura (2.3.0). Very fast, loads of useful settings, I'm now using it for production work. One thing that confuses me is the nozzle size/line width thing. If i set the nozzle size to 0.4mm but the line width to 1.0mm (I have a "toothpaste" nozzle) which setting takes precedence, or are some other subtleties at play here? I notice that when setting the line width to 1.0mm and the nozzle size to 0.4mm, Cura reports longer print times than if the nozzle is also set to 1.0mm. I prefer having the nozzle width in the "Quality" tab, but can live with changing the machine settings every time I change a nozzle if that's the way its going.
  13. Well, I figured it out in then by creating a custom profile, and then it can be changed in the machine settings. Not the most convenient way of doing things, but there you go.
  14. Very impressed with the new Cura, but can anyone tell me where to change the nozzle size?
  15. What a superb model. Seeing how much work has gone into it already at this stage, it has put me off building that Death Star I was going to make at 1:1 scale, and no tjust because the neighbours will complain either....
  16. Rather than spending hours trying to print this case time and time again, simply print two 20mm cubes around 80mm away from each other, and see what happens. If you get stringing between the two, then first start by dialling down the temperature. For this sort of thing it makes sense to watch the printer while it is printing. It might give you some clues. "Travel speed" <> "print speed". Travel speeds are the non-printing moves, when the hot end stops extruding and moves to another position to start printing again. You can push the UM2 up to 290mm/sec without serious issues. Also, increase your retraction to 45mm/sec. Speed here makes a difference. When printing 0.1mm layer heights, you need a lot less temperature than at 0.2, because you are extruding half the volume of plastic compared to 0.2. From what I see here and elsewhere, many people print at 0.2 and give temp values assuming that fact.
  17. What material are you using? What machine? What travel speed are you using? What nozzle temperature?
  18. Max temp with PLA will depend on a variety of factors, including the brand (or not) of filament you are using, and sometimes the colour as well. So, if you are printing 0.2mm layers at 60mm/sec you might be able to go quite safely to 235C. If you are using a 0.8mm nozzle for 0.4mm layers you will probably want to go lower than that, amazingly enough. I have printed as high as 255C in some specialised cases. Essentially, the less time the plastic spends in the nozzle, the more heat it's going to need. So, what you really want to do is use your nose while printing. If the plastic smells very sugary, you are going too high. Also, if your layer edges look a bit droopy, the temp is too high. The shape you are printing will also determine the temperature. For instance, printing a 100mm x 100mm box at 60mmsec will require high temps, but something organic of the same dimensions will require lower temps, because in the case of the box there is plenty of room for the head to accelerate to full speed, but something organic will never get up to full speed, as the head negotiates every little nook and cranny.
  19. These lines do the pre-charging of the nozzle, so I'm surprised it's not happening for you: G1 F12000 X5 Y10 ;move hotend to front leftG1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mmG92 E0 ;zero the extruded lengthG1 F200 E5 ;extrude 5mm of feed stock FASTG1 F50 E15 ;extrude 15mm of feed stock SLOWG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
  20. I use Octoprint, but use Cura 15.04 for slicing, and add the following gcode for the start and end respectively, inside Cura (expert mode, last tab marked Start/End gcode), not Octoprint. ;Start gcode;Sliced at: {day} {date} {time};Basic settings: Layer height: {layer_height} Walls: {wall_thickness} Fill: {fill_density};Print time: {print_time};Filament used: {filament_amount}m {filament_weight}g;Filament cost: {filament_cost};M190 S{print_bed_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line;M109 S{print_temperature} ;Uncomment to add your own temperature lineG21 ;metric valuesG90 ;absolute positioningM82 ;set extruder to absolute modeM107 ;start with the fan offG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstopsG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstopsG1 F12000 X5 Y10 ;move hotend to front leftG1 Z15.0 F{travel_speed} ;move the platform down 15mmG92 E0 ;zero the extruded lengthG1 F200 E5 ;extrude 5mm of feed stock FASTG1 F50 E15 ;extrude 15mm of feed stock SLOWG92 E0 ;zero the extruded length againG1 F{travel_speed};Put printing message on LCD screenM117 Printing... ;End GCodeM104 S0 ;extruder heater offM140 S0 ;heated bed heater off (if you have it)G91 ;relative positioningG1 E-1 F300 ;retract the filament a bit before lifting the nozzle, to release some of the pressureG1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F{travel_speed} ;move Z up a bit and retract filament even moreG28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops, so the head is out of the wayG28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstopsM84 ;steppers offG90 ;absolute positioning;{profile_string}
  21. I don't really have the time to sign up to these sites and play around with them. My feeling anyway is that none of them are going to have all the specific features that such a platform would need, and the commonalities are really quite basic. Logins project creation file viewing in the browser (STL, IGS and bla) mini-forum for each project site-wide forum for discussing projects with other people on the site who might not know about individual projects etc. task manager for each project As the site grows people will suggest more features and refinements of existing ones, so start with something simple. Lowest possible common denominator.
  22. An innovation platform is a step-up from the likes of youmagine or thingiverse, with some caveats. First of all, it really has to be quite simple to use - no long and complicated setup for a project, easy to join and easy to manage projects. Secondly, the biggest problem with youmagine and thingiverse is that there are shedloads of models and they are not curated. So, if searching for something, you have to spend hours trying to figure out what the designer might have called it. Therefore I suggest that a core feature should be forcing the project creator to place their project into a specific category or categories, and having that curated as well. It does not have to be instantly checked, but every now and then admins should be able to move projects into a different category if necessary. Above all, a gentle hand at the tiller is required; I do not post to stackexchange because the admins there invariably have a very brutal attitude to any question is is even slightly off-topic, which I find unhelpful and annoying. Lastly, it makes a great deal of sense for Ultimaker and the open source/hardware community in general to have this kind of collaboration platform. I have a project I want to work on that will need some help with electronics and advanced maths, probably some engineering too. With a platform that is well thought out, with gaming-style scoring as well, it might just attract someone to my project who has no interest in 3D printing, electronics or engineering, but is a hotshot at maths. If it succeeds, then it will make a substantial change to 3D printing and the Ultimaker as well, but it will need quite a bit of input from people with specialist knowledge to be all drawn together on the project. This will require some considerable social momentum, but with a brand like Ultimaker backing it and the success of the Olsson Block, I think this has a very real chance of succeeding. Some interesting/funny competitions with good or funny prizes every now and then will only help to promote the whole idea.
  23. @Eraser, I think the greatest thing your video has done is demonstrated how anyone with enough patience and some great imagination (and a very, very patient and supportive wife) can use the amazing technologies we have at our fingertips today to create such wonderful things. Your video is very slick, polished and suffused with whimsy. The solutions you created in order to get the result you wanted are breathtaking in their simplicity. Your dedication to completing this project is inspiring. It was worth running this contest just to get such a marvellous result. Ultimaker could do no worse by pushing this video out to the interwebs, it simply is that good.
  24. Totally awesome print and really nice paint job.
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