danilius
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Posts posted by danilius
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The upshot is I am now about to try out a polyurethane sealer/varnish for the build plate as well as sealing my parts post print... and also a polyurethane bonding agent when bonding my parts together... I'll let you know how I get on...
Since you are within reach of ebay UK, give UHU stic a go before spraying muck all over your build plate. Works a charm for me, for all my current filaments (PLA, ABS, Nylon, PETG). Spread it with the plate at around 50C, and print PETG at 75C.
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Clearly I live under a rock.
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As far as I'm concerned, Ultimaker hires Gina and starts really supporting it
Best idea I have heard in a while!
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The weird and the wonderful is what is pushing 3D printing forward a this crazy rate.
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0.1 nozzle with 2.85 filament? That's like hitting the wing of a fly with a shotgun.
Yup, I'm wondering if the resolution of the feeder is capable of dealing with this altogether.
Did it clog because the pla was on the nozzle for too much time and the jammed nozzle pla inside went brown?
Nope. Just jammed for some inexplicable reason. Could be a particle in the plastic itself. I have had that before.
You could try to heat the nozzle to 120, unscrew it, and while holding it hot with tools ofc, pick the peace of filament and pull it. Like a real-fast-on-the-fly atomic.
Tried that with my other nozzles. It requires exquisite timing, or a stable source of heat at around 120C - 140C, which I don't have.
Also you could try to do outside atomic. Heat the nozzle to 120-160, try to push filament from outside to inside, then lower to 80-90 and pull the residue out, it might 'pull' the clog.
I should have thought of that :(
Other idea... Insert a 2-3ptfe tube as long as you can, then insert low pressure air to keep pushing the filament out. I did that once, it was a mess, slow, and not funny at all, but I did take the clog. Also, with a 2-3ptfe tube you can use it to insert it, and use it to do the atomic.
Excuse my utter ignorance, but what is a 2-3ptfe tube?
That's all I can think of that doesn't need something of the size of the nozzle.
Well that was pretty impressive, thanks!
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Yup, you read that correctly: 0.1mm nozzle. I know, crazy, but I got a preview one. And it is bonkers.
At first I tried printing a tiny treefrog, around 7mm x 5 mm. In order to eyeball the first layer I printed it with a 20 line brim, at 5mm/sec right at the front of the bed. In hindsight, choosing white PLA was monumentally stupid. First of all I tend to find that white PLA is much more finicky than other colours, and secondly it's almost impossible to see if anything is happening since at such a fine layer thickness (0.05mm) and a width of 0.1mm.
The first one failed to print the arms, so I cancelled that one. Scaled up a bit, started again, same problem. On the third attempt the nozzle jammed. Gah!
Now how do you clean a 0.1mm nozzle? You can even see the hole it's so small. I will try heating it over a gas flame tomorrow and quenching it in water which will hopefully expel the jammed goo after a few goes.
I think the next material to try is PETG which so far seems less prone to jamming than anything I have used so far.
There are no pics to show at this stage, so please just picture my frustration instead. This is the toughest printing I have ever done.
All advice gratefully received.
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Have you finely measured post print for shrinkage danilius?
No, that's a good idea mind you.
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I bought some PETG from amazon UK, 3D Prima brand. It has a glass-like appearance once printed (if you use really fat layers). It is as easy to print as PLA, although at higher temps. I tend to print 0.2mm layers at 30mm/sec for the outers, 45mm.sec for inners and infill at 255C and the bed at 75C, no enclosure required either (although to be honest I don't use one with ABS either). I use UHU stic on glass, works just fine for me.
It does not warp like ABS, it does not smell very much, less than PLA. It's greatest strength is its.....strength. Crazy strong compared to PLA and ABS. You can really brutalise the stuff. It is more springy than ABS, and springs will work quite nicely when the same thing will break in ABS or PLA. All in all, it is my go-to filament now.
I did have some strange result when destruction testing some prints. 5 pieces went through 200+ degrees bends several times before I could tear the pieces away. 2 shattered, but did not delaminate.
I tried to capture the gem-like appearance of this material unsuccessfully. The springs are really strong and I was unable to pull them too far out because the sharp edges of the part were digging into my fingers too much, which should give you a very good idea of the strength of this material. I bet the springs 90 degrees up and down and they still work.
I think this stuff is manufactured by the dwarves of the mines Khazad-dûm with Mithril being one of the key components, but that might just be an urban legend.
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The idea is pretty good, execution (oh dear, 'orrible pun) is going to be tricky. The drone can't practically be flown using a VR headset at any speed in a crowded city except by the most experienced of pilots, so will have to use autonav with collision avoidance bla yada bla, you can see why it hasn't exactly gotten off the ground (oh no, another bad pun).
What's really preventing this is really good AI. Skynet, we need you.
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Have you ever tried plain PETG? I've been using the stuff for parts that are getting a serious walloping, and the results are nothing short of astonishing.
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An Ambulance Drone (great idea, silly name - it's a flying defibrillator) which can be seen here:
Nice but very brief UM2 shot as well.
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Ahh, Shurik, you got everyone excited and then let us down with a bump.
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Awesome stuff! How are you printing dual head?
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My four year old son was promised a keyring if he behaved nicely at the dentist, and what do you know, he did! I cleaned off the dribbles after I took this shot.
The coin is a British 2p, which is 25.9mm in diameter.
Printed in Prima 3D PETG, 0.2mm layers, 250C, 30mm/sec outer walls, 45mm/sec everything else, no supports, 10 line brim, bed temp 75C.
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PVC GLue :)Ive found that it works on most materials for making it watertight.
Interesting. Will have to give that one a whirl.
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Acetone contracts over time so yes it seals well! but can also split your model over time if you put too much or the shell had imperfections. But then again i'm probably the only one using too much! lol.
I have found that going easy with acetone allows for better results. So, for a weld, keep a very thin gap between the parts when applying the acetone, use a small amount, then shove the parts together really quickly and breathe in the wonderful fumes. For sealing, use several washes rather than dumping in a bucket load.
its also good for setting things in place with tight ball joints as it makes things temporarily flexible!
For tight ball joints you might want to consider using a fine abrasive powder. I haven't tried this, but you might want to put some baking soda into a tight ball joint, wiggle it around until smooth (might need several applications) and then wash it out with water. You might have to soak the part a few times in warm water to get all the soda out.
Baking soda is mildly abrasive.
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What a clever fix to wash it with acetone! How long has it been watertight now?
Well, what other option was there? Maybe polyurethane varnish, but that takes ages to dry, and I wanted it on the table pronto. The one big advantage that ABS has is the acetone thing. There are so many tricks one can do using acetone, including seamless welds.
Aaaaanyway, it has been almost two weeks now, and the flowers are drooping but the vase is still watertight. I expect it is a permanent fix.
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Well, the part is fundamentally not designed for FDM printing, because it has no natural flat area.
So, you are going to need supports, and fairly close ones as well. Use lines, not grid. You will have to go into expert mode for all this.
Also, print as low a temperature as you can go, and no faster than 30mm/sec. Keep the fans blowing all the time at 100%; it's not going to affect anything negatively and can only help.
Print the part on its side, with the text facing the front of the UM.
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What material are you using? This will make a difference to the answer.
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What S/W did you use to put the letters on the vase?
The whole thing was modelled in Blender. There is a plugin to create spiral curves, and then a mesh - in this case the letters - has a Curve modifier attached that distorts it along a curve.
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Printed this for the wife - the names of all our family. Printed in ABS with a 0.8mm nozzle and 0.4mm layer height. The printer was left open, no paper or cardboard covering it. Obviously it did not distort or delaminate during the print. It took around 8 hours to print at 60mm/sec and 45mm/sec for outer edges.
The only thing that went a bit wrong was that I did not print it solid, so it leaked a little. That was easy to fix, I simply washed the inside with acetone, and minutes later it was dry and waterproof.
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As long as we are requesting features, how about multiple layer stepped brims (like ages old Kisslicer)? They are critical for printing bed adhesion challenged materials like nylon. Simple brims are not adequate and rafts are messy and ugly.
It sounds like you are having real trouble printing nylon.
I use an ordinary 10-line brim straight to glass, on ABS juice. The bed is at 65C, or sometimes 50C. Either one is fine, and nylon peels off ABS with the slightest tug.
Below are (partial) shots of a nylon part. As you can see, it's translucent, and the layers barely show up. It was printed at 0.1mm layer height, in Taulman Bridge.
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You can download it from YouMagine here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/toothy-toothbrush-holder
Printed in ABS without any shielding whatsoever. All I do is coat the bed in ABS juice, start printing at 75C and have the TweakAtZ plugin raise the temperature to 110C from the second layer onwards. That way I don't have to wait ages for the bed to warm up. I do use brims, usually 10 or 20 lines depending on the model. In this case I used 20 since the bed contact area is so small. I have printed a few of these, and they take 4 hours with a 0.8mm nozzle, 0.4mm layer height, 5% infill, and around 60mm/s, twice the time obviously at 0.2mm layer height.
If any of the moderators are reading this, I won't be using the 3D print upload form until:
1) I am not forced to enter anything, but get to choose what information I supply or don't. It's my model, my effort, and my time. When those requirements have changed and item 2 has been fixed, I will use it again.
2) I'm on Ubuntu 15.04 using Chrome. My pictures won't upload now to the 3D print form. Not having all the time in the world, I tried twice with the same result. So, I abandoned that effort, along with the considerations mentioned in item 1.
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I was thinking along those lines. I fully appreciate that this is non-trivial, but it is nonetheless jolly useful.
This would of course could break Marlin in a big way, but perhaps not so drastically. As it is, the whole gcode thing is a bit long in the tooth for 3D printing, but assuming that we want to stick with it, one could add some very simple features into the firmware to handle this.
For example, bracketing each layer of each object with a start/end marker in comments as @ahoeben suggests. Standard firmware will simply ignore these comments, updated firmware will understand what they represent and could, upon receiving a custom gcode, simply skip to the next object on that layer.
Of course each object will need label, which could be set and/or autogenerated in Cura.
Maybe this is something for @Tinkergnome to play with?
Printing with colorFabb XT-CF20 - UM2
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
'Tiz the only way to get things proper reet...
Then you are sorted. With UHU stic if you apply it to a hot bed, you get a nice smooth - but not glass - finish. As it is, when gluing parts together you want a roughish surface anyway, to get a greater surface area for the glue to adhere to.
What glue do you use, BTW?