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Everything posted by danilius

  1. Also, here is a practical use of your sculpture, a coat hook. Or somewhere to hang up your carcasses, or parts thereof perhaps.
  2. Weeeeeelll, thar's your problem, mate. Thanks for the upload, I downloaded it, removed the lower geometry and stuck a plane on the back. You can use the "Cut off object bottom" function to reduce the thickness of the bottom. You can find it here. This way, Cura takes care of filling things out nicely, as long as you don't need the hollow at the back. It also removes the internal overlaps from the lower geometry. Also, you
  3. It's difficult to tell clearly from your pictures what's going on, but it looks like your top surfaces are too thin, and you need to increase the retraction length, and maybe the speed as well.
  4. Even in red plastic this looks awesome cool.
  5. Thanks for that. B&Q write "Simply apply with a spray and leave for 25-30 minutes to dry - a great way to revamp your home". So I'm buying 1,000 of these and spraying my walls with that.
  6. What did you use to get that lovely golden finish?
  7. ...or the button for the secret door to the batcave.
  8. I suppose if you mount it vertically it would make an interesting towel hook.
  9. I might be a bit thick here, but given the sheer amount of effort you have put into making this model work, why didn't you make the model a solid and print with something like 15% infill? You could have made the floor a bit thicker, and printed 5 or 6 shells and avoided all that exquisite agony you are going through trying to cover your plastic in gunk. My sympathies to you nonetheless. This looks painful.
  10. Was that printed in one piece? It's even more amazing in close-up.
  11. This is engineering as a pure art form. If we do not see a comprehensive video of this glorious beauty in action we will nag, whine, stamp our feet and demand to see one until you oblige us!
  12. That is so cool, but where did you see my mother in law....? Can we see some close-ups?
  13. I have two suggestions for you. 1) Set up a camera to record the printing. Make sure you are recording sound as well, it provides loads of clues 2) It's a total waste of plastic, but print a cube around 20cm x 20cm x 20cm (should be hollow, but I would suggest a wall thickness of at least 1.6mm, i.e. four shells). Use enough infill that the first 10cm in height take more than 20 hours to print. So print slowly as well, 30mm/s. Together with the camera, this should hopefully eliminate some issues or perhaps even resolve the problem.
  14. Yup, it was only really funny (well, in my mind anyway) because I thought for some reason that you were using a stock Ultimaker. So it was bit like someone turning up in a car claiming that they regularly drive at 400mph. I had a chuckle anyway!
  15. How do you get from London to New York in 10 minutes? Easy. 1) build yourself a rocket roughly the size of a Saturn 5 2) fill it with fuel 3) light the blue touch paper OK, all is clear now.
  16. I find that superglue is really great, but has the advantage that it can be separated by giving a good wallop or applying hot water. It can also be used as a filler if you fill the crack with bicarbonate of soda and then apply superglue. I have used gorilla glue, it is incredibly strong, but it foams up and seeps everywhere. Sometimes an advantage, though, if you have large gaps. Another one that is really good for larger surfaces is Evo-Stik Impact Adhesive. I particularly like the smell :-) You are supposed to coat two surfaces, allow them to tack-dry and then squeeze them together for a f
  17. I'm amazed that you are printing at 150mm/s. As I said above, start with 30mm/s for a really long print and take it from there. It's really difficult to know what the problem is without a lot more information.
  18. My longest print ever on my UM2 was close to forty hours, IIRC. I regularly print for 20 hours +, so you have some other issue. To work out what's going on, you need to print something simple with the best possible settings. For example, a cylinder in PLA at 30mm/s for 30 hours. Try to start the print so at the 18 hour mark you can sit by your printer and watch what happens.
  19. Yup, I have had quite a few CAD file exports going wrong from various programs, which I was forced to correct by hand in Blender. I would agree with Nallath that Sketchup is really not suited for 3D printing, because it really does not care about issues that affect 3D printing, since it does its job quite nicely without it. In Blender, OTOH, most of the issues that affect a good print can cause problems with things like boolean operations, correct material rendering etc; so it kind of gets 3D printing made easy for free.
  20. I've sorted it out by generating the mesh in a different way.
  21. Hi, Cura closes the holes on one side, as you can see from the two images below. Any idea why?
  22. A nice option would be to be able to specify geometry as being support, that way one could create a solid object that CURA will convert into support. Sometimes CURA generates no support at all even though it is needed, or the supports generated are a poor choice. This is hardly surprising since we cannot expect the programmers to be able to figure out every possible scenario, and it means making custom support much, much easier to remove.
  23. That's a seriously nice design. It would be interesting to see the sort of accuracy/repeatability you get with this setup as-is.
  24. I tried 0.4mm walls, but Cura prints them as two lines, unlike the support it generates itself which are much cleaner. Dim3nsioneer, I'm not sure what you mean, but I created custom supports in Blender, and exported them with my model, but I am after 1-line wide supports that I can create in Blender, which currently is not feasible. Unless, of course, someone has pulled it off!
  25. My wish is for some way of exporting custom supports from Blender into Cura. By which I mean I would like to define some piece of geometry so it should print only one line wide. This would allow for custom supports in Cura created in Blender. Or perhaps a switch which converts any object that has no depth into one line wide.
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