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danilius

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Everything posted by danilius

  1. Oh, I got you. I tend to find that diameter is far less critical than, say, temperature.
  2. @neotko, while printing with 1.75mm filament is doable the Ultimaker is built for 2.85mm only. If you are having problems already, then using 1.75mm filament is simply heaping another set of problems on your existing steaming pile.
  3. I suppose if you mount it vertically it would make an interesting towel hook.
  4. Congratulations, @meduza et al, but I can't tell you how disappointed I am it was not crack kryptonite after all. There go my wishes being dashed again...
  5. It looks like most noobs come to 3D printing with the expectation that it is like a laser printer, but in 3D. This is a perception that is fostered by the media and in fact many 3D printer manufacturers. It hardly comes as a surprise that someone buying and Ultimaker is dismayed at the sheer amount of knowledge one requires in order to knock out something half decent. It would be in the 3D printing industry's long-term interest to avoid this perception. Sure, in the short term you will sell fewer printers, but those printers that do move will be sold to more savvy users who will require less support and be happy to fiddle with repairs themselves. In the long run, noobs will spend much more time in the run-up to buying a printer to educate themselves more about 3D printing. This is what I did, and I came into owning an Ultimaker with few illusions. Other than dual-head printing being just over the horizon, of course, but let's not mention the war :-)
  6. I might be a bit thick here, but given the sheer amount of effort you have put into making this model work, why didn't you make the model a solid and print with something like 15% infill? You could have made the floor a bit thicker, and printed 5 or 6 shells and avoided all that exquisite agony you are going through trying to cover your plastic in gunk. My sympathies to you nonetheless. This looks painful.
  7. Well, I followed all your helpful advice and it turned out that replacing the feeder was really very simple. Far simple than I thought it would be, and I should have done it ages ago since it if far better than the stock feeder. I was struggling with nylon (Taulman Bridge) and Robert's feeder makes it a doddle. Also the quick release is brilliant. So, thank you Robert. And if you are reading this and wonder if you should go ahead and change your stock feeder, then let me encourage you to do so. I fail to see why Ultimaker have not incorporated your ideas into their feeder, it is that good!
  8. There are several ways of dealing with this. First of all, every material is different, some suffer more than others with this sort of thing. I would try printing slower and colder, and increasing the retraction length and speed.
  9. Awesome stuff - thanks a million! I hope to give this a whirl tomorrow then.
  10. I have printed IRobertI's feeder for the UM2, bought the necessary parts, but the thing that had me scratching my head was that if I remove the four screws holding the default feeder in place, won't the motor drop down? If yes, how does one replace the feeder?
  11. Or you can try http://www.shop.3dfilaprint.com/pla-black-3mm-596-p.asp which is black PLA. It's the only colour PLA I have ordered from them, so I have no idea if the other stuff is any good or not. But this filament is of finest PLA I have used, as good if not better than Colorfabb, although that's not a very scientific opinion, merely my personal observation. At £17 a kilo, it's very reasonable.
  12. And that's why it tastes so good in coffee. Ahem.
  13. If you have a brand new machine, chances are you don't have a major clog. It seems like you are using PLA. At 260C it will burn after a minute inside the nozzle, so you want to avoid doing that unless you are really desperate. You might want to use the little white twist-ties that come with sandwich bags. So: 1) Heat the nozzle to 220C. 2) While that is happening, remove the bowden tube from the print head 3) take a length (30cm) of PLA and straighten it out 4) by this time the nozzle is probably toasty, so insert the twist-tie into the nozzle. No need the strip the plastic off the wire, the hot nozzle will do that for you 5) Poke the twist-tie into the nozzle (use pliers) until it goes in around 4cm 6) Now carefully feed the short length of PLA into the nozzle and push down, you should get some PLA coming out slowly 7) If yes, it might require a fair bit of force, so push firmly until the blockage clears and the PLA runs quite quickly Voila, nozzle unblocked. You can try this at 260C as well, but work quickly. Prepare everything in advance, and only then heat the nozzle up.
  14. You need to say what material you are printing with, temps, what you are using on the bed (if anything), print speeds etc. All of this will help to resolve your issue.
  15. Was that printed in one piece? It's even more amazing in close-up.
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