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zxen

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  1. Anyone know why its so hard to sell brand new filament?
  2. Im selling PLA and Nylon Bridge on eBay cheap because I sold my ultimaker: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223185072150 https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F223185092504 please tell me honestly if you don’t think these prices are fair - all new and unopened.
  3. In original box with all parts (4 nozzles, PLA 1kg). Works good as new. AU$2500 negotiable You can pay via Paypal or during pickup. I don't know how to ship this but can ship it if you give me instructions and pay for shipping. 0439394437
  4. Happening to me too all of a sudden with my Ultimaker 2 with 2+ upgrade kit and replacement heater bed. I am trying a different print object to see if it happens again. The symptom is that the filament suddenly retracts about 15cm, then pushes straight back to where it was and continues printing a couple of times, and then the table drops about a centimeter and nothing continues printing in mid-air.
  5. I noticed that the filament had retracted back up the tube somehow. Maybe the reel was getting stuck or something. This may have resulted in a nozzle overheat?
  6. This has never happened before. The printer is stopping and beeping during a print. It has been printing all day and the buildplate has become quite hot, so I guess I could turn the buildplate temperature down or off, but this is a brand new replacement buildplate. Let this not sway you into assuming its buildplate related. Can anyone tell me why this might have happened? Could it be an SD card error? No error messages appear. It beeps and stops printing, then resumes on its own a second later every thirty seconds or so. For now I've turned it off in case I'm causing damage. Please help. Thanks.
  7. VERY IMPORTANT NEWS: I just discovered you can still print when the heater bed sensor is broken by starting your print, then adjusting the heater bed temperature on the Ultimaker to ZERO. The error doesn't show at all. (You might have already known that.)
  8. My problem was overcome by adjusting the build plate properly. I also use UHU glue stick.
  9. As a moderator, you would be in contact with the developers. Please advise them that the heavy gauge wiring attached to the heated bed in conjunction with the constant movement warrants robust screw terminals rather than flimsy printed on solder points. This simple modification in the new board ought to solve 99% of customer's ER02 issues. Example image of robust screw terminals
  10. You're lucky. The solder acts like wax on a hairy leg and rips the weak metal terminal right off the board. The circuit board on the heater bed has been printed with thin metal onto the heater bed and the terminals should be robust conductor holes for screws, not weak metal lining. I would say from my testing that this weak metal connection is what is causing these boards to require constant screw tightening by many people with the ER02 error.
  11. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221743900262 These replacement heater beds come with the wire block attached for US$65. If you add waiting time to that as an inconvenience of $100 per day, it will cost you up to 40 days ($4000). If you own an Ultimaker, its likely you'll need to replace these quite often.
  12. After de-soldering the heater bed from the wiring attachment, I can see why so many people are having trouble with the heat sensor: The heated bed is substandard in it's construction. As you can see, the wires from the board rip away with the wiring bracket, leaving no contact to the board whatsoever. These boards are not constructed properly. You can see in the image the yellow plastic where strong metal contact should be. The circuit on the board is printed too cheaply to work with such a high force wire bracket.
  13. I buy everything from imaginables.com.au. They usually ship anything to your door within 2 business days.
  14. What? I learned nothing. This thread is now polluted with useless re-asking of the STEPS required to repair all the faulty Ultimakers in the world. Do you tell people who are frantic to 'chill out' and 'google it'? That's just cruel. You already know the answer. Your google search resulted in a sea of research. Please just tell us how to edit the firmware file, what it is called etc. in steps. That means, instructions. You don't have to of course, but I'm telling you there is no way I wouldn't do it for everyone. I'd be apologetic for not explaining clearly the first time.
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