raptor4

Really? But there is only 10-15% of CF in ABS! Where do you heard about the ABS with CF? Because, I´ve heard that there are only improvements over unfilled ABS/PLA! Like here: 3DXMax™ CFR Carbon Fiber Reinforced Filament Data sheets are now available on both the PLA and ABS grades. 3DXMax™ CFR-PLA Highlights 9100 MPa Flexural Modulus (128% improvement over unfilled PLA; 31% improvement over competitor's 15% CF-PLA) 4711 MPa Tensile Modulus (64% improvement over unfilled PLA; 11% improvement over competitor's 15% CF-PLA) 3DXMax™ CFR-ABS Highlights 3687 MPa Flexural Modulus (86% improvement over unfilled ABS) 3458 MPa Tensile Modulus (77% improvement over unfilled ABS) Each of these grades has been custom formulated to offer an ideal combination of improved mechanical properties, dimensional stability, & printability. Want to use the E3D V6 hotend.

Yes, it´s really easy to print with PLA, but the printed parts aren´t good for mechanical parts and higher temperatures. So, for our multicopters we need more engineering plastics like PA6, PC, POM, PETG, ABS with CF. Will get an ABS with 15% carbon fiber maybe in the next weeks, can´t wait to test it. But, I must to print also with PA6 and PC at this time and I think, will test to print it with an ABS-glue on my glass plate. And what is with your bigger ultimaker Jonny? It´s ready? Can you maybe show a pic of your printer? Will get the rest of my printer parts in the next days and want to build up my bigger ultimaker.

OK! Thank you! For me, it´s very important to have an cad software , which isn´t to complicated. I´ve tried turbocad, there are so many features, useful and not. So, freecad is better in some cases. For example, if you want to draw an circle 5mm away from an edge, than it´s easy to do that. In turbocad not. But, want to try the DesignSpark Mechanical also. Another problem: Did you try to print with PA or PC ? Tried to print with PA6 and PC, but had always warping.

I meant 3D cad software! :mrgreen: :blink:

OK! No problem! Will try to design some blocks! What is your favorite 3D cad programm? I´m testing the FreeCAD 3D programm currently. It´s not bad, have some nice features, but also some problems!

Yes, also the price is ok! Well, will check the temperature of it. But, I think, will put an heat sink directly to it! I have also an idea to use the heat of the components, to heat up the printer chamber, filament! In this way, I can save energy and improve the printing quality.

Would you give me an stl file for your blocks, for testing? But please, if can, change it for an 8mm gantry! That would be very cool! Hope, You can do it! I´m trying to implement the Flex3Drive to the printhead with an E3D V6 hotend at this time, seems to be a good solution for an extruder! I hope, to get the parts as soon as possible! Maybe, it´s also something for you?

Hi Jonny! Thank You! I´ve found an other special expander board for hotend and heatbed. It´s also cheaper and practical then an SSR here in Germany. Ordered here 4pcs: http://www.ebay.de/itm/271543985231?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT So, now I´m waiting for my printer parts Flex3Drive, heatbed, E3D V6 and so on. But, still need some printed parts for the gantry and so on. I´ve seen You wanted to use the Reptar XY- Version Two blocks (nhfoley) . Do you have maybe the step file of it? Because, need it for 8mm gantry rods and nhfoley didn´t answer!

Ok! Thank you! Yes, I know there is lot of things to do! Maybe, I can do an PCB with my milling machine. It´s an really easy circuit. There is also another way! It´s possible to use the V1.5.7 UM PCB directly with 24V and with only few modifications. Here is an thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/6685-24v/ And especially this post here: Note that I believe the current board runs the electronics cooling fan and the material cooling fan from Pin. Previous versions did have connectors for fans that cam off of the 12V regulator. The current version does not. Get yourself a voltmeter and check. However, trust me when I say I tried a 12V fan for the material cooling and it instantly went up in smoke and I measured the full on voltage at 19.5V. I don't have access to the schematic from where I am but look at it on UM's open source site. Pin is labelled VCC/2, Notice that VCC/2 is taken straight from the power connector. VCC/2 is what is send to both the material and electronics cooling fans. On the current board, I believe the only thing that runs from 12V is the Arduino. If you move to 24V, the things you need to be concerned about are: The heater (probably OK as it is listed as 18V and controlled via PWM) The 12V material fan currently driven at Pin will run at 24V (will probably burn out) and a few LEDs (may burn out) The heat from the 12V regulator if used. As for the MOSFETs -The hotend heater MOSFET will probably be ok. You might be able to use the HB MOSFET on board IF you use a heavy gauge jumper on the critical traces. I believe it is a low side switch so one leg goes to ground. Use a jump to that pin and connect to - on your 24V PS. The other pin goes to the screw terminal. Back that up with a jumper. The third (middle I believe but don't trust that, find a spec sheet or the schematic) other is the signal and you don't need to do anything with that. The other screw terminal is connected to VCC/2 which is Pin so use a jumper to connect it to + on the PS. Carefully monitor the connector to see if it is heating up due to the HB current.

Do you have an PCB for the circuit, maybe? But, I wanted to buy an ready SSR relay, cause, have less time. The SSR relay from last post is the best for the price, which I can find here. Yes, wanted also to use an 24V heater and heatbed with my 24V power supply, but thought it would be better to connect the heater directly to the UM board. Best regards! Eugen

Hi Chopmeister! Please, would you show your heatbed driver? Need also an relay or something for my new 300W heatbed! Thank you in advance! Eugen

But the relay from Conrad is only for 5A! Here is an SSR-DC/DC relay in Germany with heatsink: https://youprintin3d.de/hardware/heizbetten/91/ssr-relais-dc-dc-40a-mit-kuehlkoerper.html The price is a little bit high, but ok! Here is datasheet of it: http://www.pohltechnik.com/PDF/Bedien_SSR-500-524-zw20130701_web.pdf I think, I will order one of that for the heatbed. Because I need 12,5A with 24V for the full power of 300W. But will use an 12V heater for the hotend with the 1.5.7 Ultimaker PCB and reduce the power via firmware or use the relay from Conrad!

Damn, the relay is also from China! Found only 2 reseller here in Germany, but for 30€ :oops: .

So, i´ve found the SSR-25DD relay on amazon.de for 7,29€. Here: http://www.amazon.de/Baomain-solid-SSR-25-3-32VDC-5-60VDC/dp/B00OWZJP1O/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1416941546&sr=8-17&keywords=SSR-25DD#productDetails Hope, it will work ok with it!

Oh! Yes, you are right , didn´t see the AC! Then, I would maybe use like this one: http://www.ebay.de/itm/DC-3-32V-SSR-25DD-Halbleiterrelais-hoch-zuverlassige-Temperaturregler-/251530102183?pt=Elektromechanische_Bauelemente&hash=item3a905cc5a7 But I hope, I can find it here in Germany! Yes, direct drive is also really good, whant to do it in the same way! So, now i need to find an stl file for the printhead with E3D V6 and for 8mm gantry. But it´s very difficult to find something. Also the twister blocks for the gantry are all for 6mm rods. I think the easiest way, is to use an 6mm gantry, but I think, it would be better to use 8mm rods for my bigger building plate of 300x300mm.

Hi Zoev89! Thank you for your answer! Yes, I will use a thermocouple, because I need more than 300°C. Will try to print with ultem in the future, or PC, PA6, POM! Will get PETG, PA6 and PC in the next weeks! But, It´s possible to use SSR also for hotend, right? 3mm Filament is not the problem for me, can order directly from China. Will get also PA6 with 10% carbon fibre, if they have more time! Can you maybe show a pic of your direct drive!? What is with your printhead and X/Y gantry. Do you use 6mm or 8mm rods? Best regards! Eugen

Hallo Ultimaker Gemeinde! Ich habe momentan einen Ultimaker 2, mit dem ich meine Teile drucken kann. Ist jedoch nur ein Leihgerät und muss bald zu seinem Besitzer zurück :wink: . In dieser Zeit konnte ich doch so einige positive, wie auch negative Seiten des Ultimakers kennenlernen. Nun möchte ich mir einen eigenen Ultimaker bauen, jedoch mit einigen Verbesserungen. Der Ultimaker L wird ein E3D V6 hotend haben, 8mm Wellen auch am Druckkopf, eine beheizbare Druckplatte in der Größe 300x300mm (300W), GT2 pulleys und belts oder evtl auch 1,5GT pulleys und belts usw. Nur, theoretisch ist ja alles möglich, weiß jedoch nicht, ob ich es auch praktisch umsetzen kann! Wollte deshalb mal bei Euch nach paar Lösungsvorschlägen und Tips fragen! Evtl. hat ja bereits jemand die gleichen Teile verbaut, gedruckt, aufgebaut usw. Die Elektronik wird bei Sainsmart bestellt hier: http://www.ebay.de/itm/380855600808?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Mit der 1.5.7V Platine für Ultimaker, Ramps 2560 R3 usw. Das Hotend wird wie erwähnt das E3D V6 in der Bowden Version sein. In direct drive Version wäre es ebenfalls sehr interessant, falls einer eine Idee hat, dann her damit . Mit dem E3D V6 hotend möchte ich PC, PA6, PETG und evtl PEI (Ultem) Filamente verarbeiten. Von E3D wird übrigens demnächst ein neues Hotend rauskommen. Damit kann schneller gedruckt werden. Die kleinste Düse wird wohl eine 0,8mm werden. Ich weiß auch schon, wie es aussehen wird, darf jedoch keine Fotos davon zeigen. Soll aber recht bald rauskommen :wink: Na ja, die restlichen Sachen, habe ich mir auch schon bereits rausgesucht und hoffe, dass man damit einen stabilen und genauen Drucker aufbauen kann. Jetzt fehlen mir noch paar Lösungsvorschläge und ich hoffe, ihr könnt mir dabei weiterhelfen . 1. Verwendet wird eine 24V 40W Heizpatrone und eine 24V 300W Heizplatte. Dafür möchte ich ein extra Netzteil mit 24V verwenden (restliche Elektronik läuft mit 19V). Kann ich die Heizpatrone und die Heizplatte mit je einem SSR-25DA Relais gesteuert schalten oder gibts evtl mit der Heizpatrone ein Problem? Hier das Relais: http://www.ebay.de/itm/171329164962?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT 2. Hat evtl einer von euch einen Druckkopf für ein E3D V6 hotend und 8mm Linearlager gedruckt/gefräst? Hatte zwar einige gute gefunden, jedoch sind die meisten für die 6mm Wellen/Linearlager. 3. Mit der Marlin Firmware habe ich bis jetzt noch nicht viel gemacht. Weiß jedoch wo und wie man z.b die max Temp. des hotends usw verändert/anpasst usw. Ich nehme jedoch an, dass ich die Ultimaker2Marlin Firmware, natürlich mit anderen Einstellungen für das V1.5.7 Board verwenden kann. Oder gibts da evtl doch spezielle Einstellungen, die man nicht ändern kann? Ich danke euch schonmal im Voraus und freue mich auf euere Vorschläge und Lösungen ! Gruß! Eugen