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fergazz last won the day on April 28

fergazz had the most liked content!

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About fergazz

  • Birthday 08/02/1980

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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2 Extended
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  1. fergazz

    Add thickness to walls...?

    Hi @AevnsGrandpa, be welcome to 3d printing!! I supose that those thin lines (letters and map) are not wide enough to deal with a standart 0.4mm nozzle. Try to scale up the model and double check in Cura preview if you can see those thin parts sliced... website adress will be very difficult to do if you doesn't scale up to at least 150mm diagonal... maybe a bit more. If you still need help post a photo of preview and I or someone else can analyse for you. Cheers!
  2. fergazz

    Strange noise in XY motion

    well, I lubrificated all axes and tomorow I will give it a test. If weird stuffs keep happening I will install an earlier version of tinkerGnome.:
  3. fergazz

    Post your latest print!

    That's awesome! Did you use Photoscan for those too? I got a demo version of Capture Reality photogrammetry software but It has a lot of parameters to follow.... low ISO, correct exposition, correct zoom range. If photos are not in those parameters the software cannot read them.
  4. fergazz

    Strange noise in XY motion

    After the last pause I comand, in control panel of Simplify3D, to home all, but it collapse on the left corner and I hit Emergency Stop.
  5. Hi all! After a strange noise during printing the Forbidden Watchtower by Kjai I paused, resume and paused again and quit this print. Looks like it also cause a layer shift: Video_UM2(+)Noise_14seconds / google drive What's going on here? By the way I'm using UM2(+) printer, Simplify3D v4 and thinkerMarlin 17.10.1 as firmware 1: Bearing problem? 2: Lack of lubrication on XY the axles? It's tought to move with printer shutted down. 3: Slicer problem? In preview looks fine. Firmware problem? 4: Belt? Everything seems in place. 5: None of the above 😁
  6. fergazz

    Bed Leveling/Warped Glass

    Hi @bastienb! you can send me messages here in forum or even e-mail me to: gazzola@3dsolid.com.br So, I saw that you are in France, right? I believe this link is from a distributor or manufecturer of those kind of ceramic-glasses: https://vitre-cpi.fr/vitre-plate-rectangulaire/7-verre-rectangulaire.html (this link above was shared in page 3 of Neoceram glass topic, not sure which brand is). I found mine seaching for "industrial glass association" in my country... and them I asked they about a ceramic glass reseller. For more details check the entire post about it, when this topic start, this link above was shared in page 3. Make sure to get 4mm thickness glass (UM2 is a bit smaller, around 3.85-3.90mm) so the clips will be tight. To be more confortable to hold and clean the glass make sure to ask the seller to smooth the edges (c-edge) and cut corners rounded with 5mm ratio. If you need more help let me know. Cheers!
  7. fergazz

    Post your latest print!

    Hi @Torgeir good to hear from you again! I believe that the material you are looking for (PLA with thermal properties) should be GreenTec from Extrudr (Austria) or PLATec from Biofila (German). They hold temperatures until 120 degrees, 110°C for sure, but I don't have an in deep information to make sure it's food safe cause I don't know what kind of blend do they use. PLATec also have a good touch finishing, I got the natural one. GreenTec I never used but people from community are saying that it's the same material and properties. Biofila's website is in reformulation process and it's out of service as far as I know, but you can contact the manufacturer directly in this email: sales@two-bears.eu Let me know if those materials attends to their needs... we can try to find another one. I also tested Photo-pasta HT and it prints like any other good quality PLA. I read the full article that you provided talking about PLA in medical field, good stuff! I fowarded to a medical reseach institute that I'm working for and supporting. Thank you!
  8. fergazz


    Sem dúvida o Bondtech é o melhor feeder, tava de olho nele, cheguei a encomendar com o fabricante mas eles pararam de enviar pro BR pois tiveram problemas com outras entregas. O Meduza me deu um pouco de trabalho pra instalar mas foi bem mais barato, e agora tá rodando bem, mas tive que encomendar da China (por e-packet) o Knurled sleeve pois o antigo ficou emperrado na minha haste do stepper motor e tive que serrar com a Dremel. Tem uma porca que fica dentro do modelo que é chato tb de colocar no lugar mas após superar essas “dificuldades” ele tá funcionando muito bem... aumentou o torque em aprox. 1.5x o que é muito bom ao utilizar nozzles de 0.6 / 0.8 pra cima. Nesse aspecto ele é melhor que o feeder original da UM2+. Comprei tudo na loja do gr5... só o TFM coupler que peguei na Fabric8 pois ele tava sem no estoque. Nem me fale, o dolar disparou, tá complicado. Espero que o resultado das eleições sejam favoráveis... vamos ficar na torcida. Qualquer dúvida pergunte! Abraço
  9. fergazz


    E esse é o heated block da 3dSolex, um pouco antes de instalar os novos cabos: do heater e do sensor de temperatura
  10. fergazz


  11. fergazz


  12. fergazz


    olá @pro-2, Já trocou o PTFE coupler alguma vez? Eu que nunca fui de usar ABS mas usei muito o XT e o Ngen da Colorfabb e meu PTFE tava bem magoado, queimado na parte interna. Vou postar a foto aqui mais tarde. Impressionante como fez diferença, essa parte queimada dava muito atrito durante as retrações, acumulava plástico e resultava em underextrusion com muita frequência, até em peças com poucas retrações e com baixo volume de material (velocidade baixa). Caso queira trocar o heated block sugiro o da 3dSolex, tô achando muito bom. Comprei, também o heater de 40W, o sensor de temperatura e um jogo de nozzles da Mathless. Mudei o feeder pro Meduza's e agora tenho mais torque na máquina (com o bico maior acaba sentindo necessidade de aumentar o torque pra jogar mais volume), acabei instalando o firmware editável tinkerMarlin pra poder lidar com ele. Só o heater que deveria ter pego o de 35W que é mais fácil configurar, mas com as orientações do Gr5 consegui fazer.
  13. fergazz

    Bed Leveling/Warped Glass

    I'm using ceramic glass from Schott (German brand) for a year, the comercial name for those are Robax or Nextrema, and it's absolute flat. I never had so perfect first layers since I start to use it... filament is always squizing the same amond on the entire bed and I did some wide prints and multiple object prints that cover the entire bed. I love it, seriously. Schott Brazil shared some information with me, they also sell borosilicate and temperad glasses: Comparision of coefficient of expansion: Tempered: 6.0x10^-6 Borosilicate: 3,3x10^-6 Neoceram: 0.6x10^-6 (close to zero) Thermal shock: Tempered: 270°C Borosilicate: 360°C Neoceram: 760°C Mine is model 724-3. I note that it is a little heavier than the original... it also retains more heat than the tempered one, it's good for adhesion and I can put it on freezer for less than 2min for PLA and 3 min for TPU and Ngen... it withstands thermal shock up to 760 °C so I believe it's safe to do it... still working flawless. Now I only use the old glass with buildtek just when I need to deal with Nylon. As Neotko (the guy that found it) said, stable Z is important. They can also find more info in a topic called: A better glass bed / ceramic glass (something like that).
  14. fergazz

    Neosanding - Automatic Layer Sanding

    Hi @bob-hepple. It seems that I had the same issue, I was trying with 0.05mm on my top layers. Cura changes a lot during these times, I still using S3D v4 but I wanna try some stable and recent version to test neosanding (ironing) and adaptive layer high, looks like an awesome feature. Keep us updated with your tests... Thank you @inventabuild for this explanation.
  15. Yep, take a look: http://shop.bondtech.se/en/extruders/ddg-extruder-for-ultimaker-3.html @gr5 also have in stock right now: https://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um3upg/bondtech-ddg-extruder-feeder-for-ultimaker-3-2-85-3mm-filament-107.html

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