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fergazz

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fergazz last won the day on April 28 2018

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About fergazz

  • Birthday 08/02/1980

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Medicine
    Engineering
    Manufacturing
    Other
  • Country
    BR
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2 Extended
  • On The Web

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  1. I don't know what's happening with them... website was in maintenance since middle of 2018 and now it's not avaiable anymore: http://www.two-bears.eu/ Check out here: sales@two-bears.eu Benno Besler Which filament are you looking for? If you are seaching for the PLA Tec you can find GreenTec from Extrudr as an alternative cause their properties are very similar
  2. Solved. I removed the Z-rod and put those 4 into the Trapezoidal Nut ... it was easier than I thought, because the nut has a round inlet that locks into place ... I just twisted it to align the holes. I just started a new print and ER06 did not show up any more. I hope it helps someone because I haven't found any information about it in the UM forum.
  3. Hi fellows! I decided to make some maintenance in my 5yo UM2(+) and I take it off the Z-rod for a better cleaning... but I suppose that I miss something when I was reasembling and this Trapezoidal Lead Nut is now out of place 😕 (Check photo). It also gives me an ER06 error... but Z swith looks in place and wires either. The bed is moving freely I suppose that this is the reason. Should I dissasemble the back cover? Or can I deal with it just trying to hit the screw in place (not easy by the way). Any help would be appreciated. That's my only printer by now so I'm temporary out of work. Cheers!
  4. video uploaded in google drive showing the bed moving freely: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1B_E4eLdPHT7iI9UyjTxR3vblgcO0iS5c Is this the Z switch? Is this black wire the one that I should check? I moved the printer and I heard something moving inside... Is there something to hold the Z-rod inside the with cover at the back? I tryed to find limit Z switch in github https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2 but it's not there... or it's with another name. I also was lookin for some nut inside the back cover without sucess: I hope anyone can help me on that. Cheers!
  5. I had a similar issue, ER06. Yesterday I decide to make a maintenance in my UM2 because I'm having some bad quality prints in Z and X,Y axis. So I disasembled my Z-rod for cleaning propose (with teeth brush and them a bit of Magnalube) and when I reasembled I feel like the bed is moving freely... maybe I miss some step when I reasemble that? I tryed to take off the white cover but I quit in the middle of the way since I realize that belts are a bit loose and retight it. I checked the board and Z-swith (is that the black one right) it is fully inserted, I take it off and re-inserted again. Same stuff, ER06. So... I will take a photo of the bottom of my UM2, someone please check if it's missing some screw or if I put those in a wrong hole? For this time I didn't film or took photos during the disasembling as I always do 😕 Thank you by the way...
  6. Opa, legal @Paulo_Novaes... creio que temos 5 usuários no Rio, até onde eu sei. Ipanema, Barra, Botafogo e Nova Iguaçu. Que lugar exatamente? Seja bem-vindo! Tem um grupo Ultimaker Brasil no Facebook também. Está meio "morno" mas penso em fazer uma enquete pra sugerir a migração do grupo.
  7. you should find a release agent to separate the concrete to the mold...
  8. Did you save it in EEPROM? After alter the value you should digit M500 to save it I hope it helps
  9. I live in a very humidy city, Rio de Janeiro, and I had a cheap humidity meter that had very low tolerance, about + or - 8% but it broked, realy bad quality one. Nowadays I use another one, still cheap compared to the professional ones but the values are much closer to the official mesurement made by climatic organ in my city, they mesure in my neighbohood so it’s a good source to compare. I believe it have + or - 3% accurancy but it just work to me to know when to dry my silica gel and maintain the humidy of the filament. During these years I learned that silica gel only dryes the outter area of the filament, inside still humity and the only way to eliminate it is heating (IMPORTANT: below the glass temperature of the filament to don’t destroy your filament properties) and with air circulation spining around the roll or filament peace. For this one the best choice should be a PrintDry (https://www.printdry.com/) and they pointed in their website how it works: view photos or check full info in this link https://www.printdry.com/science And the last photo attached is a information about hygroscopic materials, it’s missing TPU information that I believe it’s very hygroscopic but not as much as Nylor or PVA. I’m seeing some guys using food dehydrator to dry filamets, that’s should be a cheaper choice but need some ajustments to fit the rolls as showned in this recently 3DMN video: I hope those informations helps anyone!
  10. Really cool. Awesome idea to print infill with different colour, never saw it before. Maybe increase a bit the retraction distance can do the job, did you try it? I did it when I print with 0.8 nozzles... it's much wider and needs higher temps to print so... that can be a solution. I'm using a modified UM2+ (capricorn tube and meduza's feeder) and maybe my parameters cannot make sense for you but I believe that I increase retraction distance adding 0.5mm. Keep doing and sharing those awesome prints dude! Cheers
  11. frankly after more than a year without updates I expected more news. Have the bugs been fixed at least?
  12. Just informing that new version is avaiable! Anyone instaled ? What's new? https://www.simplify3d.com/software/release-notes/version-4-1-0/ My UM2(+) is out of service... so I don't have a feedback by now
  13. There is a filament in UK that I would like to try... named Filamentive. Specially the Cosmic series... have anyone tryed this? They have metalic flakes that looks awesome... at least on reel
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