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fergazz

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fergazz last won the day on April 28 2018

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2+ Connect
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    BR
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  1. Hi @widden, welcome to the club! in “vase mode” you have a continuous extrusion so the printer do not retract… it is also called “spiralize mode”. So you doesn’t have problems with z-seam because it happens when the printhead moves from one place to the other (or to another layer) and needs to retract. Regarding the “strong dust” I suppose that this should be related to the excentric nuts too tight… causing deformation on the POM wheels and leaving some residual. The excentric nut is an out of axis nut… so you need to find the sweet spot to hold but not thingt too much and not too lose… no wooble. It approuchs and leave a gap of the gantry while you turn it. You can find these nuts on the v-slots (the alone one in that triangle) and under the bed base if your bed moves in Y direction front to rear (I supose Ender 6 don’t have this kind of bed as Ender 3, for exemple). If it’s too tight it creates resistence that are showed into the surface of the prints. Take a look of the overall shape of this wheels and keep that in mind. if it’s deformed it’s easy and unexpensive to replaced and you can have a longer life of this opting for a PP wheel that is much more rigid. I hope I understood what you mean with strong dust 😁… if it’s not the case let us know. Cheers! Fernando Gazzola 3dSolid_br
  2. Hi fellows! I just saw this video and thought I'd share it here 🙂 Youtube link / by Rolohaun Channel Thinking to make it with an BMG extruder. Also did not decide if as direct drive or bowden but I will convert to 1.75mm. Any tip or direction or maybe a topic recomendation? I hope to find time soon to dive into Kipper or find an alternative for this setup with silent TMCs and “easy to find” spare parts since I live far away from the UM sources. Cheers! Fernando Gazzola 3dSolid_br
  3. Hi @LePaul definitely these upgrades would be great for updating the UM2(+) series I'm lacking time to work on this conversion, I'm moving to another office and I have a lot of work to do in the next two weeks. I think I will adapt the new extruder at Artillery by the time as there is already material available and I can do it in a couple of hours. But if I'm starting to work on it to adapt to my UM2(+) I'll create an exclusive topic for H2 extruder here 😉 By the way Teaching Tech channel (forgot his name, Marco maybe?) recently made a comparison video about this and BondTech LGX and Hemera... luckly I got the good version of the H2... not the stuck one: Teaching Tech video on Youtube Cheers!
  4. Nowadays there is a newer and lighter extruder in the market, the H2 from Biqu, just got one. Smaller motor (weaker torch), but relation 7:1 and total extruder weight of 119 grams (photo bellow). I also get an allmetal/ bimetal heatbreak to avoid the one with internal PTFE tube (it cames with Capricorn in a bore 4.1 heatbreak I guess). It’s a good option for me convert to 1.75mm filament because it’s almost impossible to find 2.85mm here and when I found it’s triple the price and has a lot of moisture due to low demand 😓 The speed will be lower because of the extra weight but I always print slower than 60 and with bigger nozzles… and I’m printing a lot with TPU nowadays shores of 85A, 95A and 98A (semi-flex) so this should be a good direction even to print TPE /softer and showned in some demos. I will need to deal with firmware changes but it will not a problem since the brand provide a good explanation of it, just thinking how I will set the end stops and attach the entire extruder to the rods (combine with others designs provided above or remix the E3d adapter to UM2) the challenge will be keep a good balance on it… I will lose a bit of area in some of the axis probably and need to add a fan duct on it. I have the parts just need the fans and time to work on it 😉 Cheers!
  5. yeah... procede cleaning the nozzle as Smithy said... atomic method And them.. if this doesn't helps try another old version of Cura cause this 4.7.1 is not stable yet and it's ocorring some issues (blobs) in the outter shell. By the way I can see slightly underextrusion and blobs on the wall if I'm not wrong
  6. Algum interessado? Ultimaker 3 com pouco uso no Rio de Janeiro - RJ... despacho para todo o Brasil
  7. same stuff happening in a machine that arrived in my office! At least that is what I'm thinking... the x-linear shaft is sliding to the left. Which pulley should I thight? The one in all the left... conected with the X motor shaft? Actually there is no back spacer in the right side... but I will insert it back to the place as well 🙂
  8. Not mine, selling in my store, looks great! Around 500 hours of use... looks like a brand new machine. Deep inspection and maintnance before shipping ;) R$ 20.555
  9. Thank you @ctbeke I also note that the link for the community is much more visible now... in the first page, that's cool! 🙂
  10. Hi Kyletr76, I guess tha Anet is a direct drive printer, right or am I wrong? If yes your retraction distance should be around 2,0mm. If your frame is not enough rigid (did you upgrade it?) your speed should go down a bit. Best pratice is make a retraction test to calibrate your values, it's easy to find it in Thinginverse. I Hope it helps P.S. here is a retraction test (for bowden style printers) changing values doing multiple process in Simplify3D
  11. IMHO UM2+ is outdatted and you will probably need to buy expensive spare parts to keep it working in a short amound of time. I just purchased an Artillery Sidewinder X1 (v4) for 359 dolars (promo price in black friday) and it cames with TMC silent stepper drives, direct drive with pancake extruder, capacitive end stops, volcano nozzle, colour/touch LCD, build volume of 30x30x40cm, flat cables all around and some other specs that make it a much better machine than my old but good UM2(+). By the way the Artillery Sidewinder X1 cames as a pre-assembled printer, you just need to screw 4 bolts and conect the flat cables to make it work (10 mins assembly)... I’m very impressed with this new printer and the value for money of it. Cheers, Fernando Gazzola / 3dSolid
  12. Hi fellows! Anyone thinking to try this new direct drive extruder from E3D in a UM2 or UM2+ series?? It looks really cool and promissing... Sadly my UM2(+) is not working for about 8 months... I’m just using my other printers (2x Artillery X1; Ender3 Pro with 32bits board/ 2209 TMCs and an MLCD resin printer). I would love to reativate my UM2 but I’m looking to update some parts. Do you guys think that with Hemera I will must need to change my board to a Duet or some of the SKR ones? Which firmware tweeks should I make? I can design a mount for it... it will be definitly needed. I’m going to MRRF this year (in march) and I’m thinking to bring some UM spare parts and the new stuffs to my country, Brazil 🙂 Thank you guys in advance and it’s good to be back to this forum after a while 🙂
  13. I agree! I had a hard time trying to find the community link a couple of weeks ago... even seaching on google. And them I just found because I have a shortcut for the main commmunity page. Ultimaker should leave it in a more visible place as I think that community is a great diferencial for the brand... and also provide links for the community in all comunications on social media and blog. 😊
  14. yeah, it is a nice color... I like it!! 😀 Definitly it's not shiny. Less vivid than this photo... slightly white, looks like it was sanded
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