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fergazz

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fergazz last won the day on April 28 2018

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About fergazz

  • Birthday 08/02/1980

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Medicine
    Engineering
    Manufacturing
    Other
  • Country
    BR
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2 Extended
  • On The Web

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  1. IMHO UM2+ is outdatted and you will probably need to buy expensive spare parts to keep it working in a short amound of time. I just purchased an Artillery Sidewinder X1 (v4) for 359 dolars (promo price in black friday) and it cames with TMC silent stepper drives, direct drive with pancake extruder, capacitive end stops, volcano nozzle, colour/touch LCD, build volume of 30x30x40cm, flat cables all around and some other specs that make it a much better machine than my old but good UM2(+). By the way the Artillery Sidewinder X1 cames as a pre-assembled printer, you just need to screw 4 bolts and conect the flat cables to make it work (10 mins assembly)... I’m very impressed with this new printer and the value for money of it. Cheers, Fernando Gazzola / 3dSolid
  2. Hi fellows! Anyone thinking to try this new direct drive extruder from E3D in a UM2 or UM2+ series?? It looks really cool and promissing... Sadly my UM2(+) is not working for about 8 months... I’m just using my other printers (2x Artillery X1; Ender3 Pro with 32bits board/ 2209 TMCs and an MLCD resin printer). I would love to reativate my UM2 but I’m looking to update some parts. Do you guys think that with Hemera I will must need to change my board to a Duet or some of the SKR ones? Which firmware tweeks should I make? I can design a mount for it... it will be definitly needed. I’m going to MRRF this year (in march) and I’m thinking to bring some UM spare parts and the new stuffs to my country, Brazil 🙂 Thank you guys in advance and it’s good to be back to this forum after a while 🙂
  3. I agree! I had a hard time trying to find the community link a couple of weeks ago... even seaching on google. And them I just found because I have a shortcut for the main commmunity page. Ultimaker should leave it in a more visible place as I think that community is a great diferencial for the brand... and also provide links for the community in all comunications on social media and blog. 😊
  4. yeah, it is a nice color... I like it!! 😀 Definitly it's not shiny. Less vivid than this photo... slightly white, looks like it was sanded
  5. Agree! You deserve! It's a great channel... ----x---- My filament just arrived!! This one is the Orange from Matteforge. Printed with 0.8mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer high... I still dealing with the profile, this is my first print with it: 225°C; 5.5mm retraction distance and 25mm/s. I note some overextrusion in some layers... not sure if it's my settings or diameter variation... I'll watch closely
  6. Really nice Paul... I actually saw it later at your channel starts showing Matteforge at 14:30s Ok, end of mistery... I got the orange!! I still have some blues, greys and my "orange dutch" color is almost empty for couple of years... and I love it. So let's try a new orange... I will post my thoughts here later Thank you fellows!
  7. I'm from Brazil but I'm going to USA The Black is out of stock in Printed Solid... I am in doubt between blue, dark gray or orange (mistery) 😁
  8. thank you @LePaul and @ScanHD... this matte looks great to my eyes... I will probably buy one of those. I'm really in doubth cause I buy filaments from U.S or Europe once a year because I cannot find those in my country. I'm quite impressed with the colors of this Spider Maker filament as well.... the first review listed show some great prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2POCD7IPRNOQ2/ref=cm_cr_othr_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B07NYPH4LS but looks like it have just 1.75mm filament avaiable... at least in this add 😕 maybe I can buy it for my CR-10S Pro Colorfabb is straight foward... garantee quality. Sometimes we need a consistence stuff... but nowadays I realize that other manufectures are improving tolerance, adhesion and making awesome colors as well. I'm also looking for Atomic filaments, Paramount and Solutech and probably will test one of those for non-matte options. Ok @Smithy... I will let you know about my choices and tests 🙂 See you all buddies... cheers!
  9. Ok thank you, good exemple of semi-matte to compare with that Matterforge... in Amazon I saw this Spider Maker that also is matte but I don't have reference: https://www.amazon.com/SpiderMaker-Printer-PLA-Filament-Incredible/dp/B07NYPH4LS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=matte%2Bfilament%2Bpla&qid=1560972875&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1 Just for reference Spider Maker is the same price as Matteforge... around 35 for 1kg. Colorfabb is around 50 / 750gr spool
  10. I'm looking for a filament with matte finish and I saw this Matteforge at Printed Solid. Anyone have more photos to share? Is it semi-matte or real matte? 😊 My intention is to give a "more professional look" to some prototypes ... the brilliance of plastic makes it seem cheaper in some cases. Mixed PLAs or PLAs are my focus as I also need good tolerance and easy printing. I'm discarding carbon fiber because I want to preserve my abrasive nozzles for the Bronzefill 😀
  11. I don't know what's happening with them... website was in maintenance since middle of 2018 and now it's not avaiable anymore: http://www.two-bears.eu/ Check out here: sales@two-bears.eu Benno Besler Which filament are you looking for? If you are seaching for the PLA Tec you can find GreenTec from Extrudr as an alternative cause their properties are very similar
  12. Solved. I removed the Z-rod and put those 4 into the Trapezoidal Nut ... it was easier than I thought, because the nut has a round inlet that locks into place ... I just twisted it to align the holes. I just started a new print and ER06 did not show up any more. I hope it helps someone because I haven't found any information about it in the UM forum.
  13. Hi fellows! I decided to make some maintenance in my 5yo UM2(+) and I take it off the Z-rod for a better cleaning... but I suppose that I miss something when I was reasembling and this Trapezoidal Lead Nut is now out of place 😕 (Check photo). It also gives me an ER06 error... but Z swith looks in place and wires either. The bed is moving freely I suppose that this is the reason. Should I dissasemble the back cover? Or can I deal with it just trying to hit the screw in place (not easy by the way). Any help would be appreciated. That's my only printer by now so I'm temporary out of work. Cheers!
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