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Everything posted by fergazz

  1. yeah... procede cleaning the nozzle as Smithy said... atomic method And them.. if this doesn't helps try another old version of Cura cause this 4.7.1 is not stable yet and it's ocorring some issues (blobs) in the outter shell. By the way I can see slightly underextrusion and blobs on the wall if I'm not wrong
  2. Algum interessado? Ultimaker 3 com pouco uso no Rio de Janeiro - RJ... despacho para todo o Brasil
  3. same stuff happening in a machine that arrived in my office! At least that is what I'm thinking... the x-linear shaft is sliding to the left. Which pulley should I thight? The one in all the left... conected with the X motor shaft? Actually there is no back spacer in the right side... but I will insert it back to the place as well 🙂
  4. Not mine, selling in my store, looks great! Around 500 hours of use... looks like a brand new machine. Deep inspection and maintnance before shipping ;) R$ 20.555
  5. Thank you @ctbeke I also note that the link for the community is much more visible now... in the first page, that's cool! 🙂
  6. Hi Kyletr76, I guess tha Anet is a direct drive printer, right or am I wrong? If yes your retraction distance should be around 2,0mm. If your frame is not enough rigid (did you upgrade it?) your speed should go down a bit. Best pratice is make a retraction test to calibrate your values, it's easy to find it in Thinginverse. I Hope it helps P.S. here is a retraction test (for bowden style printers) changing values doing multiple process in Simplify3D
  7. IMHO UM2+ is outdatted and you will probably need to buy expensive spare parts to keep it working in a short amound of time. I just purchased an Artillery Sidewinder X1 (v4) for 359 dolars (promo price in black friday) and it cames with TMC silent stepper drives, direct drive with pancake extruder, capacitive end stops, volcano nozzle, colour/touch LCD, build volume of 30x30x40cm, flat cables all around and some other specs that make it a much better machine than my old but good UM2(+). By the way the Artillery Sidewinder X1 cames as a pre-assembled printer, you just ne
  8. Hi fellows! Anyone thinking to try this new direct drive extruder from E3D in a UM2 or UM2+ series?? It looks really cool and promissing... Sadly my UM2(+) is not working for about 8 months... I’m just using my other printers (2x Artillery X1; Ender3 Pro with 32bits board/ 2209 TMCs and an MLCD resin printer). I would love to reativate my UM2 but I’m looking to update some parts. Do you guys think that with Hemera I will must need to change my board to a Duet or some of the SKR ones? Which firmware tweeks should I make? I can design a mount for it... it will be de
  9. I agree! I had a hard time trying to find the community link a couple of weeks ago... even seaching on google. And them I just found because I have a shortcut for the main commmunity page. Ultimaker should leave it in a more visible place as I think that community is a great diferencial for the brand... and also provide links for the community in all comunications on social media and blog. 😊
  10. yeah, it is a nice color... I like it!! 😀 Definitly it's not shiny. Less vivid than this photo... slightly white, looks like it was sanded
  11. Agree! You deserve! It's a great channel... ----x---- My filament just arrived!! This one is the Orange from Matteforge. Printed with 0.8mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer high... I still dealing with the profile, this is my first print with it: 225°C; 5.5mm retraction distance and 25mm/s. I note some overextrusion in some layers... not sure if it's my settings or diameter variation... I'll watch closely
  12. Really nice Paul... I actually saw it later at your channel starts showing Matteforge at 14:30s Ok, end of mistery... I got the orange!! I still have some blues, greys and my "orange dutch" color is almost empty for couple of years... and I love it. So let's try a new orange... I will post my thoughts here later Thank you fellows!
  13. I'm from Brazil but I'm going to USA The Black is out of stock in Printed Solid... I am in doubt between blue, dark gray or orange (mistery) 😁
  14. thank you @LePaul and @ScanHD... this matte looks great to my eyes... I will probably buy one of those. I'm really in doubth cause I buy filaments from U.S or Europe once a year because I cannot find those in my country. I'm quite impressed with the colors of this Spider Maker filament as well.... the first review listed show some great prints: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R2POCD7IPRNOQ2/ref=cm_cr_othr_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B07NYPH4LS but looks like it have just 1.75mm filament avaiable... at least in this add 😕 maybe I can buy it for my CR-10S Pr
  15. Ok thank you, good exemple of semi-matte to compare with that Matterforge... in Amazon I saw this Spider Maker that also is matte but I don't have reference: https://www.amazon.com/SpiderMaker-Printer-PLA-Filament-Incredible/dp/B07NYPH4LS/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=matte%2Bfilament%2Bpla&qid=1560972875&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1 Just for reference Spider Maker is the same price as Matteforge... around 35 for 1kg. Colorfabb is around 50 / 750gr spool
  16. I'm looking for a filament with matte finish and I saw this Matteforge at Printed Solid. Anyone have more photos to share? Is it semi-matte or real matte? 😊 My intention is to give a "more professional look" to some prototypes ... the brilliance of plastic makes it seem cheaper in some cases. Mixed PLAs or PLAs are my focus as I also need good tolerance and easy printing. I'm discarding carbon fiber because I want to preserve my abrasive nozzles for the Bronzefill 😀
  17. I don't know what's happening with them... website was in maintenance since middle of 2018 and now it's not avaiable anymore: http://www.two-bears.eu/ Check out here: sales@two-bears.eu Benno Besler Which filament are you looking for? If you are seaching for the PLA Tec you can find GreenTec from Extrudr as an alternative cause their properties are very similar
  18. Solved. I removed the Z-rod and put those 4 into the Trapezoidal Nut ... it was easier than I thought, because the nut has a round inlet that locks into place ... I just twisted it to align the holes. I just started a new print and ER06 did not show up any more. I hope it helps someone because I haven't found any information about it in the UM forum.
  19. Hi fellows! I decided to make some maintenance in my 5yo UM2(+) and I take it off the Z-rod for a better cleaning... but I suppose that I miss something when I was reasembling and this Trapezoidal Lead Nut is now out of place 😕 (Check photo). It also gives me an ER06 error... but Z swith looks in place and wires either. The bed is moving freely I suppose that this is the reason. Should I dissasemble the back cover? Or can I deal with it just trying to hit the screw in place (not easy by the way). Any help would be appreciated. That's my only printer by now
  20. video uploaded in google drive showing the bed moving freely: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1B_E4eLdPHT7iI9UyjTxR3vblgcO0iS5c Is this the Z switch? Is this black wire the one that I should check? I moved the printer and I heard something moving inside... Is there something to hold the Z-rod inside the with cover at the back? I tryed to find limit Z switch in github https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2 but it's not there... or it's with another name. I also was lookin for some nut inside the back cover without su
  21. I had a similar issue, ER06. Yesterday I decide to make a maintenance in my UM2 because I'm having some bad quality prints in Z and X,Y axis. So I disasembled my Z-rod for cleaning propose (with teeth brush and them a bit of Magnalube) and when I reasembled I feel like the bed is moving freely... maybe I miss some step when I reasemble that? I tryed to take off the white cover but I quit in the middle of the way since I realize that belts are a bit loose and retight it. I checked the board and Z-swith (is that the black one right) it is fully inserted, I take it off and re-i
  22. Opa, legal @Paulo_Novaes... creio que temos 5 usuários no Rio, até onde eu sei. Ipanema, Barra, Botafogo e Nova Iguaçu. Que lugar exatamente? Seja bem-vindo! Tem um grupo Ultimaker Brasil no Facebook também. Está meio "morno" mas penso em fazer uma enquete pra sugerir a migração do grupo.
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