fergazz

Hi fellows! I decided to make some maintenance in my 5yo UM2(+) and I take it off the Z-rod for a better cleaning... but I suppose that I miss something when I was reasembling and this Trapezoidal Lead Nut is now out of place 😕 (Check photo). It also gives me an ER06 error... but Z swith looks in place and wires either. The bed is moving freely I suppose that this is the reason. Should I dissasemble the back cover? Or can I deal with it just trying to hit the screw in place (not easy by the way). Any help would be appreciated. That's my only printer by now so I'm temporary out of work. Cheers!

video uploaded in google drive showing the bed moving freely: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1B_E4eLdPHT7iI9UyjTxR3vblgcO0iS5c Is this the Z switch? Is this black wire the one that I should check? I moved the printer and I heard something moving inside... Is there something to hold the Z-rod inside the with cover at the back? I tryed to find limit Z switch in github https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2 but it's not there... or it's with another name. I also was lookin for some nut inside the back cover without sucess: I hope anyone can help me on that. Cheers!

I had a similar issue, ER06. Yesterday I decide to make a maintenance in my UM2 because I'm having some bad quality prints in Z and X,Y axis. So I disasembled my Z-rod for cleaning propose (with teeth brush and them a bit of Magnalube) and when I reasembled I feel like the bed is moving freely... maybe I miss some step when I reasemble that? I tryed to take off the white cover but I quit in the middle of the way since I realize that belts are a bit loose and retight it. I checked the board and Z-swith (is that the black one right) it is fully inserted, I take it off and re-inserted again. Same stuff, ER06. So... I will take a photo of the bottom of my UM2, someone please check if it's missing some screw or if I put those in a wrong hole? For this time I didn't film or took photos during the disasembling as I always do 😕 Thank you by the way...

Opa, legal @Paulo_Novaes... creio que temos 5 usuários no Rio, até onde eu sei. Ipanema, Barra, Botafogo e Nova Iguaçu. Que lugar exatamente? Seja bem-vindo! Tem um grupo Ultimaker Brasil no Facebook também. Está meio "morno" mas penso em fazer uma enquete pra sugerir a migração do grupo.

you should find a release agent to separate the concrete to the mold...

I believe that this video can help you:

Did you save it in EEPROM? After alter the value you should digit M500 to save it I hope it helps

I live in a very humidy city, Rio de Janeiro, and I had a cheap humidity meter that had very low tolerance, about + or - 8% but it broked, realy bad quality one. Nowadays I use another one, still cheap compared to the professional ones but the values are much closer to the official mesurement made by climatic organ in my city, they mesure in my neighbohood so it’s a good source to compare. I believe it have + or - 3% accurancy but it just work to me to know when to dry my silica gel and maintain the humidy of the filament. During these years I learned that silica gel only dryes the outter area of the filament, inside still humity and the only way to eliminate it is heating (IMPORTANT: below the glass temperature of the filament to don’t destroy your filament properties) and with air circulation spining around the roll or filament peace. For this one the best choice should be a PrintDry (https://www.printdry.com/) and they pointed in their website how it works: view photos or check full info in this link https://www.printdry.com/science And the last photo attached is a information about hygroscopic materials, it’s missing TPU information that I believe it’s very hygroscopic but not as much as Nylor or PVA. I’m seeing some guys using food dehydrator to dry filamets, that’s should be a cheaper choice but need some ajustments to fit the rolls as showned in this recently 3DMN video: I hope those informations helps anyone!

Really cool. Awesome idea to print infill with different colour, never saw it before. Maybe increase a bit the retraction distance can do the job, did you try it? I did it when I print with 0.8 nozzles... it's much wider and needs higher temps to print so... that can be a solution. I'm using a modified UM2+ (capricorn tube and meduza's feeder) and maybe my parameters cannot make sense for you but I believe that I increase retraction distance adding 0.5mm. Keep doing and sharing those awesome prints dude! Cheers

frankly after more than a year without updates I expected more news. Have the bugs been fixed at least?

Just informing that new version is avaiable! Anyone instaled ? What's new? https://www.simplify3d.com/software/release-notes/version-4-1-0/ My UM2(+) is out of service... so I don't have a feedback by now

There is a filament in UK that I would like to try... named Filamentive. Specially the Cosmic series... have anyone tryed this? They have metalic flakes that looks awesome... at least on reel

sounds weird, I agree... it's a long history, I'm a pioneer of a sport called mountainboard: It's a snowboard with wheels. I bring one of those from London in 1999. Lived in Colorado and after the snowboard period I worked in MBS mountainboard, one of the brands that developed this sport. Are you curious? Take a look at this link (many short videos)... I did a program about it in local TV focused in action sports ? Thank you for the words...

Thank you one more time! I did everything, my logo and website hahaha.. why? I doesn't have a thousand posts... just getting close to a few hundred ? I don't know how people have so much posts, I came like twice a week or even more when I open a topic or when I'm following some subject. But I like this forum... it helps me a lot! About 70% of my knowledge came from here... I read much more than post. Best wishes for you, cheers!

Thanks, your words inspire me as well ? That's true. I started to import filaments because those high quality ones didn't have here... and I thinked to offer for people who want premium quality ones like me. Sweden? One of the highest HDI in the world... should be amazing to live there... I learned a little about your country cause I had a neighbohood from Sweden when I lived in Colorado, USA, I worked as a snowboard instructor when I was there. We made some parties and he was always in my house (good memories)... we laugh a lot comparing both countries. Sweeden is Bondtech land! It's one of the products that I think to sell here.

Hi @TMicke, sure... no problem! I'm from Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. I have a degree in advertising and journalism an 2 MBAs: in Institutional Marketing and Creation Management. I started 3d printing in 2014 doing on demand printing service in 3dHubs. When 3d printing started to get more popular with chinese brands I focused in quality, high resolution and "exotic materials" and them I started to help guys that was looking for 3d printers so I realize that it should be a service and I implement consulting service as well. Nowadays I work for brands too implementing 3d print labs (3d printers, PC build and software solution). I also offer 3d modeling for 3d printing following DfAM (Design for Additive Manufecture). I'm a Autodesk certified designer since 2006 started with 3dMax and a couple of years ago with Fusion360. Recently I got an DLP/LCD printer from Kudo3D maintaining the idea of high resolution. My next step will be open a online store to sell high quality filaments (top quality), acessories and printers. I already started with some small quantities products but it's far from ideal. I'm selling a immobile to invest in a strategic commercial adress, divulge it and get more products and represent some printers brands. During all this period my country dive into a serious economic crisis and I had to find creative solutions without being able to hire employees, in some cases outsourcing the workforce. But it looks like, in economic terms, things will improve with the new government that will start next year. By the way this is my website: www.3dsolid.com.br and this is my online store in Mercado Livre: https://lista.mercadolivre.com.br/_CustId_155239172

may I agree with everyone? ? It all depends if @Fulv have enclousure, what type of adhesion he uses and how is his experience with this material. If he doesn't have experience with PC it may be prudent start doing one bottle and them multiple prints when he feels secure for it.

Send them an e-mail!... It will be cool if Ultimaker provide those aluminium build plates for the other printers as well

Yeah, I understand you. And I'm quite far from the stores that sell parts so... if I need a replacement it will take more than a month to came and it will cost 3 times more regarding international fees and shipping. And I'm working full-time with 3d printing so I was scarryed to change those stuffs and I changed a lot of stuffs with the TFM coupler: heater, block and sensor. I took hours and hours to carefully change all the stuffs. By the way I seach videos from different sources to change those stuffs: Dream3D ; Anders Olsson ; EurekaTec and others... but when I needed a closer advise gr5 made an awesome support for me by e-mail... and he is really fast to give a feedback most of the time in less than 30min. All parts I bought from them just the coupler I got from Fbric8 cause his stock was empty.

oww.. forgot to say.. there is also a video from @LePaul ... like a step-by-step about it. But I don't have sure if he put this Y2K insulator. Edit: Just checked. There is not a Y2K in that. But it's a UM2+ and I just realize that it doesn't come with a spring... there is a metal part on the top of the TFM coupler

this is how my setup is right now and below is the spacer (beige colour) designed by gr5. I printed with PLA Tec that can handle until 120 degrees: maybe you can design a similar spacer with the height you want?

Hi @TMicke... did you solved it? I don't know the thickness of this 3D Solex TF2K... I'm using TFM coupler, tested with and without the spring. Gr5 made a spacer if you don't want to keep the spring. I actually doen't know if UM2+ have this spring above steel coupler. My gap between TFM coupler and steel is exactly 2.4mm

Great, there is a progress here, definitly... but it can be improved a bit more. PETG is a stringing material and this fine tune is necessary sometimes... How was the profile for those prints... the same? In Cura I saw the Ultimaker profile for CPE showing: 240, 70°C (for bed), 6,50mm (retraction distance)... but maybe for CR-10S the profile is a bit different. I f you go to Preferences > Settings > Material you can mark retraction distance and change the value on the main menu. there are some tricks to avoid stringing, try to tweek but don't do some radical changes... you can reduce it with a combination of settings or modifing one of those: - lower temperature a bit, like 2 to 4 degrees; - increase travel speed a bit (about 10mm/s) I believe it's more usefull than increase the retraction speed; - and tweek retraction distance... bowden tube of Creality printers are smaller than Ultimaker (UM2 is around 70cm) it uses smaller retraction distance. At least Ender 3 printer have around 4,50mm to 5,5mm for PLA instead of 6mm. But since this stringing test is a small piece and prints really fast you can try around the distance setted in your test. It will probably be closer to that number... alter like 0,5mm or 1.0mm maximum. Keep showing your results for us ?

you can also make a stringing test downloading an stl from thinginverse... every time I try a new filament/material I do that test: and them test different retraction distance to find the sweet spot. In this case (picture) I'm using simplify3D slicer Edit: This is PLA Polymax filament... it's probably not the ideal settings for PETG

Hi @SpaceDawg Normally you need to print slower (less than 40-50mm/s) to get better surface finish... if you print faster you can start to see some "ringing" or "ghosting" on outer wall. If you don't care about those side effects or if you are printing prototypes you can just speed up a bit. Don't make infill speed more than 20% faster than wall speed because the infill can reflect on surface making it looks ugly. There are some tricks to get an overall faster prints and keep a good speed to garantee a better finish. - You can use bigger nozzles. Speed can remain the same but final print time will decrease; - You can look at Cura for the feature: adjustable layer high. It will make an analisys of your STL and adjust/change the layer high to your model, I never test it because I'm using Simplify3D slicer for a while, but it should work. You can find videos in youtube showing how. I believe 3D Universe has one tutorial about it; - You can also make the same stuff that is pointed above in Simplify3D, changing process for each high - in case that you have this slicer software; - You can print hallow. In meshmixer software (free) from autodesk there is a easy way to hollow the object. It saves time and material but you can just apply it in some causes... if you need a rigid thing avoid this option. Tutorial is also easy to find in youtube. I hope it helps, any doubt just let me know. Cheers!