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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Buy out Prusa MK2 machines, slap UM3 logo on it and call it a day
  2. I just tested FormFutura ApolloX material, and it looks really great and it should have characteristics of ABS... I'll post more photos once my Prusa MK2 arrives.
  3. Just saw 14h video marathon from Thomas, and decided not to wait for UM3 and just go with Prusa i3 MK2... UM3 will have to be really mind blowing machine in order to win be back over...
  4. I completely agree, I have a friend who built UM2 clone, and made it MUCH more silent. I'm very jealous that his UM2 clone is quieter than mine which I payed 3x as much... The trick is in using different drivers... he used same motors. So if one guy on his own can make it more silent I would hope that Ultimaker R&D team can also figure it out...
  5. We used all kind of off the shelf enclosures, pipes, but it all sucks 3D printing your case is only way to get features you need/want in a device...
  6. I'm really interested to see images of your results. Maybe I didn't mention it before, but my UM2 has heated chamber. I prined with plexy doors that close front openning and with heated bed at 80°C and if you missed the result here is it again: https://goo.gl/photos/wabKy9RWgdZvbxis5 Please share your results, but I'm sceptical that ABS can handle this kind of object with high walls, even with heated chamber... but I have almost no experience with printing using ABS.
  7. Yes, if UM3 isn't priced competitively they will price them selves out of the market. Can you please compare UM2 and BigBox regarding print quality, print speed, material selection, temperature ranges for hotend and heatbed...
  8. I just discovered PETG on Youtube, what are your comments regarding PETG? I also got suggestion to use Nylon, but that seams too flexible:
  9. I used nGen and in my UM2 with all metal E3D V6 it worked perfectly, but coleagues who have PTFE lined E3D V6 heads couldn't print with it :( So I'm looking for some a bit cheaper and universal material that works also with PTFE lined hotends.
  10. I need durable outdoor objects, and I use all different materials, most of them are printed at 250-280°C, which original UM2 hotend can handle but only for short time before PTFE burns out. If UM2 could handle 24/7 printing @280°C I would have no need for other heat end. I have zero issue with E3D V6 and PLA, it prints perfectly! I had prints for over 30 hours without any problems. What kind of issues did you have? Did you use original E3D head or cheap knock-offs ?
  11. ABS is off the table because I don't have access pto 3D printers with heated chamber. Here is best result so far with ABS; ABS print fail
  12. I know bunch of people with 3D printer, and none have heated chamber... if you have heated hamber could you try one print run? MeshPoint STL 3D files Are there any printers with heated chambers that have around 25x25x25 build volume and full metal hotend?
  13. Agreed, release UM3 and lover the price of UM2+ with E3D full metal hotend for 50% lover price and you will kill the enthusiast market. For the price of UM2 you can get much more capable 3D printers like BCN3D Sigma with dual heads and all metal hotend...
  14. Thanks, there were few screws loose on pulleys. Everything works great now.
  15. Hi, we are building an open source wifi mesh router for crisis situations (MeshPoint), and we are still searching for ideal outdoor material to 3D print our cases. What would you recommend? Our requirements are: - no warping (because we have high walls, 10 and 20cm high parts) - can stand desert and winder temperatures (-20°C / +60°C or -4F / 140F ) - price (because we use around 400g per device price or material is also really big concern) - fast printing (we use 0.8 nozzle but still we need material that can handle fast prints) - UV resistance is not an issue because paint can take ca
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