lance-greene

im doing a print right now that is mostly overhangs, all my settings are perfect and everything about the print looks great except for some of the small features droop hard on the overhangs, while other overhangs are perfect. while watching it print i noticed the nozzle sometimes starts printing the pillars over the vertical areas, so it starts printing on a solid layer underneath it, making the layer look perfect, while other times it starts printing on the pillar directly on the overhang, meaning it starts printing on basically nothing, cause severe drooping on that spot. considering cura already detects overhangs, is it possible to add a feature that makes it so it doesnt start a layer directly on an overhang? i know other slicers have the option of giving the co-ordinates start position of a path just like cura 2.4 lets you pick the exact position of the z seam, and that feature solves this issue as well. although i noticed cura doesnt have that feature either.

so cura 2.4 just released today and ive been having alot of issues with it. - the biggest of which is that there are now 4 different nozzle temp settings printing temp printing temp initial layer initial printing temp final printing temp as the last 3 of these settings were not set to visible i was not aware they were all set to different values than my actual printing temp (this is another issue i will mention later) so my print ended up changes its actual temp 4 times and caused heating errors on one of our printers. now i have to have all 4 of those temp settings visible in my settings list across all of my printers (which takes up visibility space in cura) and set them all to 0 so they are inactive (we have 12 printers and have never had any sort of issue that all of these temp settings would fix) - another thing that is more of a feature add and not specific to 2.4 would be the option to disable settings. hiding a settings does not deactivate it, it would be nice if settings could actually be deactivated, it helps know for certain that whatever setting it is, it is not causing weird modifications to your slicing. - I also noticed that i am no longer able to drag and drop an stl file onto the cura interface and have it automatically load, i now have to click the load button and search for the file i want to load, this is a huge annoyance when dealing with a printfarm where someone is doing large amounts of printing every day.

well where is the gcode script that the UM2 uses when you do that? i dont see how a single M code can make the printer retract, move up and to the side and sit there and wait, while hitting resume has it move back to its previous position and retract back into the nozzle and continue the print

just wondering what the gcode script is that the UM2 uses when you tell it to pause?

so im getting this error sometimes on my UM2, I'd say it happens once a day with around 12 hours of printing a day on the machine. but it stops the machine when it happens. is it just a loose connection? i get the exact same error but with the heated bed as well sometimes.

hey just wondering the weight in grams of the UM2 hotend. basically everything except the rods and bowden tube. I want to compare it to a similar hotend mount im designing for another printer

yup! there are a couple little tiny holes although with the black filament they are almost impossible to see

printed in PLA with a 0.8mm nozzle and 300 micron layers with 0 infill.

the ability to easily use 1.75 or 2.85mm filament. the fact that there is more than 1 filament size and machines cant easily change between them for user preference bothers me to no end. a next gen printer should be able to easily switch between using either of those 2 filament sizes. considering the crazy price of UM machines, they should come with the couple small pieces you need to switch your machine to 1.75.

so ive ran some 1.75mm filament through my UM2 and it prints alright, but ive seen 1.75mm olsen blocks and was wondering how well they work? is it feasible to convert my UM2 to 1.75 and see no reduction in the machines quality and reliability? we have 7 3D printers at our shop and 2 of them are UM2's which are also our only 2.85 machines, and would love to switch them to 1.75 so filament isnt such a headache.

ya I think top priority is price, the UM2 is monstrously expensive ($3250 + tax up here in canada) The UM3 NEEDS to be under $3000 CAD. I payed $1800 for a BigBox from E3D, the UM3 should be able to compete on price with that.

so i saw pinshape had a feature where you could import your thingiverse profile into it and it would upload all you designs into the site so you didnt have to manually do it. its an awesome idea, although the few times i tried to do it nothing seemed to happen and it just sat there for a few hours before i gave up. could this feature be added to youmagine? because to be honest, i absolutely hate the idea of multiple 3d model repository sites for downloading printable models and its always a pain to have to make an account on each one and then upload all of your designs multiple times so all your accounts on all the sites are updated. yet i still want everyone to have the best and full access to my designs. i have 30+ designs on my thingiverse and youmagine account and i have a ton more i havent uploaded because its such a hassle to do, especially when you have to do each one twice. if i could just upload my designs to 1 profile then have all the other sites pull that info onto their site it would save me sooooo much time and effort and i would actually really enjoy doing it, unlike now where i just put it off cause it's such a hassle. sorry for the rant!

Thanks for all the help guys. the reason that infill was causing a problem was it was causing heat buildup and the part was starting to sag and get gloppy in those areas. we tried a lot to reduce the heat build up but were never able to fully solve the problem until the other day, we finally got a setup that is cool enough that the heat buildup is not a problem anymore and the part is 98% perfect. 98% is okay for us haha.

I've been using cura 15.X to do all of my slicing as I wasn't a fan of 2.X when it came out. I'll try the new one with the update that just came out (2.1.3 I believe was just released) and I'll try those settings. the part has been designed specifically to print hollow (0 infill) and using infill produces more of these negative qualities that we are trying to avoid. a few hundred of this part will be printed so it has been optimized to print as quickly as possible. All the kinks have been worked out except this 1 issue. Thanks for all the help so far! I'll give the new cura a slice and check it out

no heater error, it printed fine. what is the wattage of the UM2 heater cartridge? does ultimaker sell higher wattage ones? or do you have to buy aftermarket? if so, where can you get them from? I did have to do the print at max temp the UM2 could print at to do that 800 micron print though.

a volcano style heater block would be pretty sweet, with even bigger nozzles just like E3D. I've done 800 micron layer heights with the 0.8mm nozzle but had to print at 20mm a second, which is way to slow

yes that infill is causing nasty looking scars to show up on the outside of the print. it seems odd that the solid infill function fixes this, when this problem is present for the first 40 layers or so all the way up until the part starts printing straight vertical. you cans see how the part is building up on an angle, this forced infill persists all the way until that angle stops and it starts printing vertical, it seems on that the solid infill function can produce features that persist all the way up the part that high.

ya i noticed turning bottom infill off made the problem go away, but then the bottom of my part is removed, which is not what i want. is there a way to just turn off this forced infill?

just wondering if the olssen block works with the UMO+?

im using a 0.8mm nozzle with 0.8mm walls for a single perimeter. i had to increase the nozzle and layer width to 1.2 to make it go away, there should be some setting to just not have it produce that infill.

so im trying to print a part, and i have infill set to 0, yet at a few certain points along the print it generates infill, which is screwing up my print. is there any way to turn this off? you can see it as the yellow in the pathing in this picture.

so i recently picked up another UM2 from a friend and the extruder prints like 75% alright, but the extruder skips sometimes and i cant figure out how to get it to stop. after disassembling the extruder and hotend to clean and check for proper function it still happens. is it a firmware setting for controlling the extruder feed pressure? my other UM2 has never had this problem.

well when i got the ollsen block pack with all the nozzles, the nozzles were lazer etched and dotted. i recently ordered 2 spare 0.4mm nozzles from a canadian ultimaker distributor and they were milled instead of lazer etched and have no dots. so i have no idea whats going on. are all the 0.25 0.4 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzles dotted?

so im trying to identify my nozzles but the laser etching has been worn off and im trying to use the dots to identify them but i cant find the list saying what they are. any help?

how do you use the cutoff object bottom in the new cura? i tried just moving the part slightly below the buildplate but there is no coordinate system that tells you how far you've moved.